daleyd
Member
- Messages
- 10,419
- Location
- Wrexham, North Wales
I had to read that twiceYou're still walking then.
- Thread starter Maker
- Start date
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,085
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
You'd be better off with some 1.6mm stainless sticks if the TIG is that badStuck the fitting for the racking arm on the side of the kettle.
View attachment 328951
Luckily an SMS nut is big enough to obscure the weld, because this one's even worse than the last.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
Rather than learn what to do, I thought it would be more fun to just wing it, bang some random old electrodes I've had kicking around for years against a rusty old crankshaft and see what happens.
That's 2mm and 3.2mm electrodes, 60-110 amps in both polarities, now to get some identifiable rods, set the machine properly and learn what I'm doing.
Sure is fun, hot sparks everywhere, I'll wear jeans and a cotton coat tomorrow!
That's 2mm and 3.2mm electrodes, 60-110 amps in both polarities, now to get some identifiable rods, set the machine properly and learn what I'm doing.
Sure is fun, hot sparks everywhere, I'll wear jeans and a cotton coat tomorrow!
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 18,007
- Location
- Towcester
Don’t forget the safety flips flops and have good few measures of your last home brew tooRather than learn what to do, I thought it would be more fun to just wing it, bang some random old electrodes I've had kicking around for years against a rusty old crankshaft and see what happens.
View attachment 328975
View attachment 328974
That's 2mm and 3.2mm electrodes, 60-110 amps in both polarities, now to get some identifiable rods, set the machine properly and learn what I'm doing.
Sure is fun, hot sparks everywhere, I'll wear jeans and a cotton coat tomorrow!
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
I couldn't tell you what they are, they're in a Castolin box but you said they don't match the label. The other ones were in the loft when we moved in, initially thought it was a big bundle of sparklers. 
Is there any way I can figure out what they are?
They're definitely not stainless so I'll be getting more anyway.
Is there any way I can figure out what they are?
They're definitely not stainless so I'll be getting more anyway.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
Bit of practice.
That's mostly using 2mm rods (Left here by the previous homeowner), they seem to run just as well in electrode positive and negative, with slag which peels off in big pieces, I think that points to them being 6013 or 7018? I did a couple of beads with the 3.2mm rods, they're in a Castolin 244NC box but Brad thinks that's not what they are. I don't like the way they run, louder and scarier, I wonder if the flux is damp?
That's mostly using 2mm rods (Left here by the previous homeowner), they seem to run just as well in electrode positive and negative, with slag which peels off in big pieces, I think that points to them being 6013 or 7018? I did a couple of beads with the 3.2mm rods, they're in a Castolin 244NC box but Brad thinks that's not what they are. I don't like the way they run, louder and scarier, I wonder if the flux is damp?
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,085
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
244 is a nickel rod for repairing cast iron. Your welds would be bright silver like stainless and the flux is usually black
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,085
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
EutecTrode 2-44 welding electrodes
Low-heat-input manual electrode. Features and benefits Delayed drop transferred arc, no spatter. Excellent bonding. Dense, homogeneous and porosity-free deposit. Easy slag removal. Easy machinability even by hand filing.
www.castolin.com
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
Don't know if the welding's any good but I've done quite a decent job of warping this 8mm plate. Here's one of the better passes, this is 60 amps EN with a 2mm mystery electrode, I think I'm starting to get the hang of the travel speed.
I also had a little go with the 3.2mm fake Castolins, very violent, sputtery arc and porus slag, I think they're very damp, a freshly burned one is much whiter and seems to run more peacefully once its began to dry out.
The camera doesn't pick it up as well as the naked eye, they're night and day in person.
Here's a weld done with a hot one, it was around 110 amps, electrode negative I think. Very shortly after my welder overheated, I'm impressed it lasted as long as it did.
I also had a little go with the 3.2mm fake Castolins, very violent, sputtery arc and porus slag, I think they're very damp, a freshly burned one is much whiter and seems to run more peacefully once its began to dry out.
The camera doesn't pick it up as well as the naked eye, they're night and day in person.
Here's a weld done with a hot one, it was around 110 amps, electrode negative I think. Very shortly after my welder overheated, I'm impressed it lasted as long as it did.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
I decided to just screw the thyristor on a bit of ply beside the control box, much easier than trying to fit it inside and I don't have to find another Pi to run it. That's the controller finished, just needs hanging on the wall now.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
I finally made up the BNC cables for the pumps and temp probes, they're made to go on coax cable so terminating cat5 into them is a massive pain, but I've got four massive rolls so it's what I'm using.
Step one is to drill the centre pin a little bigger, that's a 1.4mm bit:
Then four strands can be soldered in.
After I melted the first one I figured out you can press the insulator out of the connector body and refit it after soldering.
A dab of plumbing flux lets solder wet onto the body. Not sure what they're made of, die cast zinc possibly.
Lather, rinse repeat, and heatshrink to hide sins.
Step one is to drill the centre pin a little bigger, that's a 1.4mm bit:
Then four strands can be soldered in.
After I melted the first one I figured out you can press the insulator out of the connector body and refit it after soldering.
A dab of plumbing flux lets solder wet onto the body. Not sure what they're made of, die cast zinc possibly.
Lather, rinse repeat, and heatshrink to hide sins.
First brew will be a Citra IPA, but aiming for 4.5%, the last one was 5.7% and the attrition rate when on a session with mates was too great. Then a dark Mild.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
It ain't pretty but it's strong watertight.
Barking Mat very kindly donated some stainless mma rods, that's the hole in the HLT patched up. I think the picture makes it look worse than it is, I'll give it a once over with a grinder tomorrow but it seems to be holding water so I'm happy with it.
I also put a "handle" on the mash tun false bottom too, a stainless M8 lifting eye, its been in the top of my toolbox for years so I'm glad to see it gone. This perforated sheet is a nightmare to drill.
Barking Mat very kindly donated some stainless mma rods, that's the hole in the HLT patched up. I think the picture makes it look worse than it is, I'll give it a once over with a grinder tomorrow but it seems to be holding water so I'm happy with it.
I also put a "handle" on the mash tun false bottom too, a stainless M8 lifting eye, its been in the top of my toolbox for years so I'm glad to see it gone. This perforated sheet is a nightmare to drill.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,619
- Location
- Keeler crater
Bit more progress, got the big TC fitting stuck on.
Not stuck in a water tight fashion though, lots of stops and starts, the odd slag inclusion but only one hole blown through, so definitely an improvement. Dressed back with burr I can see where it's gonna leak and patch it up, now I've got my eye in I think the welds aren't too bad, here's one before I brushed off the Instagram colours.
That was with a 2mm rod at around 45 amps. Unfortunately that was my last 2mm rod, I've got some 1.6mm ones left but I'm not getting on with them, I've solidly stuck two, made them red hot and burnt all the flux off. When I do get them to strike, the arc comes off the side of the rod, I just can't seem to control them.
You can just make out the rough edge of the hole in the middle there too. I chain drilled it and then tidied it a bit with a burr, didn't go right out to the flange as I'm thinking I might want to run a weld around the inside before I dress it right back.
Not stuck in a water tight fashion though, lots of stops and starts, the odd slag inclusion but only one hole blown through, so definitely an improvement. Dressed back with burr I can see where it's gonna leak and patch it up, now I've got my eye in I think the welds aren't too bad, here's one before I brushed off the Instagram colours.
That was with a 2mm rod at around 45 amps. Unfortunately that was my last 2mm rod, I've got some 1.6mm ones left but I'm not getting on with them, I've solidly stuck two, made them red hot and burnt all the flux off. When I do get them to strike, the arc comes off the side of the rod, I just can't seem to control them.
You can just make out the rough edge of the hole in the middle there too. I chain drilled it and then tidied it a bit with a burr, didn't go right out to the flange as I'm thinking I might want to run a weld around the inside before I dress it right back.
