I cant tell from the info provided. Still, worth doing properly
If you do not want cross beams, to stop the two uprights meeting each other under load, do you have enough room for guy lines even if installed only when lifting?
If it is only for this specific boat, concrete in a steel socket a lot closer to the hull and only install the uprights when you want to lift something. That way, the uprights do not need to cope with as much bending stress caused by the 1m overhang.
One winch each end with a couple of jockey pulleys is cheaper than two winches each end and means you only have to control two items, not four, to ensure it lifts level.
Having worked in a boat yard for many years I have lifted quite a few boats.
some with travel hoists, some with forklifts but many many more with Jack’s and blocks.
You can easily get the boat off the trailer and then raise or lower it very simply, even slide the trailer in and out without the additional costs of a hoist.
A pair of these or similar? No concrete work needed.
What you really need is 4 x 10 ton (for example), bottle jacks attached to the trailer.
As high lift jacks as you can find.
Reverse boat into winter position.
Jack it up.
Block the keel,
Support rear end either side with supports, like big axle stands.
All the weight is on the keel, the side supports are just to stop it falling over, obviously.
Pull out trailer, side supports on the front.
I do this alot...
Although an overhead gantry crane / frame is a cracking idea.
Don't reinvent the wheel, copy existent ideas...
Forgot to say, nice boat though, used to look after one for a chap, until he sold it, on the Thames near Faringdon.
Thats an idea, the boat is a lot wider ( well by maybe 600mm ) than the other boats i will be using the hoist for. the other will be lighter also. also that will save th euprights being in the way. thanks kida
But which is quicker ? easier, i think a hoist. faffing about on your own trying to drag and level a boat is not as easy as a hoist. just me but its what i have found.
I have one and sods law it a wee bit to narrow lol, i was going to make another to match.
I thought it wasnt a new idea, only difference i can see is it fixed and not mobile. So my only concern was how deep for the foundations for the uprights. Which yet nobody has said how big they need to be.
Ok idea, use removeable top cross members, reason i dont want the uprights so high is it is forward of the house front line.
So what size cross member ?
Really can't comment on the depth of foundations, depends on how solid your ground is I guess?
Hi, As well as joining the uprights side to side underground or overhead consider doing it end to end as well to stop it 'racking' or parallelogramming.
that depends on if your in to solid clay for how far down. you could weld some t pieces on the bottom to stop any rotation of the poles pulling in and widen the trench
a scaffie pole
i can do that lol i was thinking more 50x75 SHS lol
Don't forget to put wheels on it.
Is that your boat lift Mat?
when can I have a play?
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