Finished properly runs below.
Richard even your cocked up welds look better than my good runs . I should have some aluminium and rods next week this thread is a great help.
Ill add this based on another post that @dazza has started and is struggling with a few things.
I would suggest some dry runs at maintaining a consistent arc length and travel. Every sudden unwanted movement through fatigue and uncomfortable positioning shows up like a sore thumb. It's probably not going to effect the strength of the welded joint but let's face it we all want it to look visually appealing.
As said earlier with Tig welding in general you always have a tight arc but with Alu you would have a slightly (another 1mm or so) longer arc when adding filler. The reason is when you add fill you add a lot more cap height and that cap height on a really tight arc like you would use on DC can raise and nip the end of the tungsten.
this isn't a long arc length as that's not correct it's just a tiny increase in arc length as the process demands.
Filler must always be dipped into the leading edge of the pool at 90 degrees to the torch as you can see from the pic below. Torch leant back just enough for you to see what your doing around the shroud but keep it as vertical as possible. This is around 10 degree lean
Pics of the desired arc length and torch/filling angles below
Thank you for the pictures ... gotta get to Spec savers me thinks ........... so I can see that far away with clarity .
Thanks Richard, What grade Aluminium are you using in these examples? Are some easier to weld than others? I got on well with the scrap piece of tread plate.
I see you mentioned using preflow 1 second, my machine does not have adjustable preflow i think its set to 0.2 seconds. Should i be using the up slope/variable ignition current?
These off cuts I use for my tuition sessions are 6082 T6.
The filler is 4043 and 5356.
Your chequer plate will of probably been the same/similar 6*** grade.
Regarding striking an arc and laying a run on top you probably won't find that any harder on other grades. If your that unsure post me a bit and I'll weld on it. Put your mind at ease.
I think its just me, but i may try and get another bit of tread plate to test as i'm not getting on too well with this 6082T6.
That's the same grade I use a lot of. There is nothing wrong with it.
You should see mine after Richards tuition
be a shame to paint this up its looks good colours and shape
Don't believe him. He is telling huge porkie pies.
I taught him to weld properly not that weavy wiggly rainbow nonesense.
Any way mr ukr what has that got to do with AC
Wow! that looks like a real wonder of engineering UKR
It does doesn't it......I think Richard has already given the game away though.......... I was not even aware this can only be done in steel......lol
5 bar tread plate is generally a 5000 series alloy.
This is very helpful. I find it's hard with Tig Aluminium finding the right settings for welders that use a foot pedal and are quite temperamental on weather you up the gas or the heat as of course aluminium gets quite hot during welding, also with tig using an aluminium fuller rod I find it hard to find and keep a good rhythm when adding the fuller rod in to the weld pool at the right time and same time, every time so your weld is even the whole way along... but sometimes end up with blobs and bumps and am known for the occasional slight uncut.
Comfort is key to consistancy. I can not count the number of times I've been 2/3 through a run round a tube and your mind goes off the job for a minute because you start to feel over stretched and uncomfortable through poor positioning of yourself before you've started. A bit of forward planning to make sure you can complete the run from a-b in a comfortable position makes all the difference to the consistancy you apply. Length of filler too. I've seen many people have to stop 10mm before the end because they are pretty much burning there glove fingertips through running out of filler length. Again forward planning.
Indeed. Often you try move away from the fact of leaning on walls and things because depending on where and what your welding there might not always be stuff you can use to lean on to steady your arm, which then you use your other arm and your body to comfortably prop and hold your welding hand steady.
Though, I weld with mostly my left hand as that's my dominant hand but do change hands the odd time, as last year I crushed my left thumb and had to teach my right to weld.
The forward planning thing is a really great point, I can't stand using little lengths of filer rod when beginning the weld, I always make sure I have a long bit so that i don't run out as if you have to stop to get more filer rod, unless you can constantly even after stopping welding, keep a consistent rhythm, like me most times with tig you get an uneven weld and it doesn't look as good as it should.
But in saying that, I've got months to prefect my tig welding in stainless steel and aluminium.
Well your pics look like they are. Coming on nicely so keep them coming and use any excuse to throw them on the threads.
If you have any questions on the subject there are plenty of good tig welders on here that would happily help you out.
Just seen this Dazza. Treadplate is usually 5754 for the corrosion resistance and form ability with a lower chance of cracking.
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