25 year old Alfa 75 back from the brink (hopefully)

  1. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Antipodean Tinkerer

    Messages:
    4,075
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Like a prop car for a film - two different wheel styles for each side, gets the most out of the budget :D
     
  2. Cracking work here as usual @Dcal
     
  3. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Thanks lads,
    Did you like the handbrake?

    The wheels on the PS are correct for that model but are 14 inch and I'm not overly fond of them. Previous owner went to a lot of bother tapping and installing 6mm stainless cap heads to replace the original plastic fake bolts but didn't think to isolate the metals. Stainless and aluminium is a great combo for corroding so will need to do something about that. (Glad I have them though)
    They are supposed to have a chrome or polished rim to make them look like split rims and it helps the look a bit.
    I'm not a fan of lacquers and polished aluminium so I bought some chrome paint (£200 thank you very much) but haven't got around to playing with it yet.
    There are similar style, 16 inch wheels (off a 164) that can be made to work but are like hen's teeth. Please give me a shout of you know of a set.

    The other side are 15 inch revolutions which were an option. I quite like them but I only have 2 of them, again hen's teeth (I have 5 of the same design in 14 inch) and I think they really suit the car.
    I don't think there are many wheels that look right on these and there are some are just plain awful.
    I could start a poll but would anyone care?

    Nothing done on the alfa since the last photo apart from putting it outside under a tarp.
    I had to do a couple of jobs that I'd been putting off like MOTing the wife's car and fixing / servicing some of the kids cars now that I've freed up the ramp. And doing odd jobs for the two daughters now that they have both bought flats.
    Also started making a tent to spray the alfa in, which meant I needed to make a stand for my bandsaw so I can get 6m long scaffold tubes into it. (well I could have just cut them with a grinder but it was an excuse to do one of those jobs I'd been putting off). When it up and running I thought I'd finish the trolly for the mig that I started six months ago. (still not done but nearly)
    So many jobs so little time.

    I'll hopefully get a few photos up tomorrow, I'm going to a gig tonight.
     
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  4. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    Remember you can only get corrosion in the presence of an electrolyte (most likely salt water) so a good coating of grease to exclude any water should do the trick.
     
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  5. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Yes @mylesdw totally agree and the lacquer should isolate the parts electrically, but I will coat the threads with copaslip or very low strenght loctite to exclude any moisture and put a nylon washer under the caphead to be sure.
    I want to install the bolts after I paint the wheels so they still look like bolts and the plastic washers might stop me damaging the paint.

    I left the wheels outside and water ponded in the dish and created an nice galvanic cell. Even though they were painted.
    I know I should have stored them undercover or upside down but I never think too much about these things until they they are in front of me. (Then I think too much.)
     
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  6. Spot the welders dog

    Spot the welders dog Member

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    493
    Location:
    smoggy town
    Great progress @Dcal you are certainly putting the effort in.

    Must be just me but can't help thinking your local club needs more cars and less members, or do you all share the trailer between you on subsequent events :D

    Wish I could find my way past the rust stages on mine: I'm jealous :)
     
  7. NedHan79 Member

    Messages:
    46
    Location:
    Antrim Ireland
    Just spent a bit of time catching up on this. Some very nice and well thought out ideas. Great tips for all reading it.

    I’ve a few questions,
    What is jota 87a? Is it an underseal? I had been considering 3m Schultz or raptor for mine.
    Also, epoxy? Is this simply a primer? Can it be applied from an aerosol?

    I had been looking at options but when I got the car in and stripped, Ive not looked since. More into learning some metal work skills from trevs bogs and the likes. Thanks for the heads up on that btw.
     
  8. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Jotun 87A is an epoxy mastic primer made by Jotun.
    I think it great stuff and use it everywhere when I'm not that worried about the finish but want to prevent the dreaded rust coming back (Underside of cars, suspension components, or anything that's going to get dogs abuse.)
    And sometimes on parts where I do want an excellent finish (areas of bodywork that have been badly pitted) where I use it as a stopper and it is great for that application.

    It's surface tolerant meaning you don't need perfect prep (but it will last longer if you do) It's used a lot in the marine industry as a primer for boats and equipment in an marine environment.
    It's relativity cheap (£50 odd for 5l) and available locally (Patterson Coatings in Belfast)
    Downside is the smallest pack is 5l and it's fairly thick, so hard to apply by brush or spray and it doesn't preform as well after over thinning, but there are ways around it.

    Epoxy is just epoxy primer and there are lots of flavours. I use Sherwin Williams or PPG but Lechler 29107 is well regarded on here but I haven't used it.
    Epoxy really needs mixed and sprayed with a spray gun.
    It's similar to epoxy mastic (same basic chemistry) the main difference is the solids content so it is a lot thinner and formulated for spray application.

    A big advantage of the epoxy over single pack paint is it sticks to most things, you can apply filler and stoppers on top of it, it's waterproof (if applied to the required thickness) and it's pretty inert after it cures (never heard of anyone having a reaction between it and the next coat)

    Only down side is it's slower to cure (not an issue on a restoration) it's hard to sand (compared to 2K primer) it will chalk in the sun (so needs sanded before over coating if left in the sun) and has a limited open time (time between applying and over coating) but that the same with all paints.

    It is very corrosion resistant but not as good as an epoxymastic but that just down to the thickness of the coating applied (Epoxy mastic is designed to go on thick)

    All in all I think it's the best primer to apply to a restoration.
    My rule of thumb is 87a on the underside and epoxy primer to the shinny bits.
    I also like to apply a 2K primer over the epoxy primer as it sands better, it's a better base for a top coat and it's what all the manufacturers do.
     
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  9. NedHan79 Member

    Messages:
    46
    Location:
    Antrim Ireland
    Thanks for the reply.
    So is jotan a smooth finish? I was just going to go for some of the ‘rubberised’ type of products but could be very easily persuaded.

    I’ll probably end up painting the whole underside but I’m on axle stands so it’s a little difficult.

    I’ll also be wanting to paint around the suspension turrets. The factory dealer only comes up so far and the paint is looking a little scaly in places. Perhaps jotan is the ideal stuff for that?
     
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  10. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    I think that's an ideal spot for the 87A
    I'm assuming there is a plastic cover.

    If you spray the 87A you can get a reasonable finish, if you brush it will look a bit rough but will preform well (It can be applied by brush to small areas and a wheel arch would be classed as a small area by the manufacturer)
    If you are going to repaint the area make sure it is clean of all grease, muck and wax then clean it again, treat any rust, preferably by spot blasting or if that's not an option by sanding and using a rust converter, (note a wire brush in a grinder is great to get the loose paint and the worst of the rust off but doesn't leave the "right" surface for painting so always do a final sanding before paint.)
    Sand all the paint and exposed steel,clean and then give it a final going over with panel wipe and apply the primer with a spray gun (Gravity gun and 2 or better still 2.5mm fluid tip)
    A top coat will help stop Jabberwocky sticking to the paint work but a spray of decent wax would also do a good job of protecting the area.

    See the post below of how the 87A looks when brushed and sprayed

    https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...the-brink-hopefully.81348/page-7#post-1313605
     
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  11. NedHan79 Member

    Messages:
    46
    Location:
    Antrim Ireland
    Brushing might be a real option for me as I have literally a foot round the whole car to work. Space is definitely a premium.

    Yeah there’s an arch liner round that but dosnt cover it all. I do have a lot of it stripped for access though.
    The finish is of no great importance, I would like any colour except black though. Just my personal preference. I’ll probably go for a colour change on the car so a neutral grey or something’s good for me. But then if I can go for a top coat I can pick a colour then I suppose.
    I’ll probably end up doing this in stages so to finish one area at a time and move on would be good.

    What is jabberwocky? General dust and dirt sticking to the finished paint?
     
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  12. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Antipodean Tinkerer

    Messages:
    4,075
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Jabberwocky, it’s a forum term, perhaps @Wozzaaah might like to explain
     
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  13. northwest Member

    Messages:
    325
    Location:
    Manchester UK
    It appears that someone in the Mods camp has replaced the word c ra p with the word Jabberwocky in the forum software. Took me a while to catch up.
     
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  14. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Seems to have become the default swear filter, it took me a while to catch on too. Of course, it only replaces 'certain' words......:whistle:
     
    NedHan79 likes this.
  15. Yeah you can still say sh!t if you’re being creative :D
     
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  16. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Not for long [now], I suspect....:whistle: :laughing:
     
    NedHan79 likes this.
  17. Haha:D
     
  18. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    My, we have become very sensitive on this forum.

    I know it is a family friendly forum but what age are we catering for? Toddlers?
    And even they will know far better words.

    I accept I should try and increase my vocabulary but this level of policing is a bit silly. I am careful of what I post and wouldn't dream of using properly offensive words.
    I'm more worried about the content of some posts rather the the language used to express it.

    The writing in this forum is by and large very conservational and I think it should reflect common usage and the extremely diverse backgrounds of the users.
    Trying to enforce a frankly outdated idea of wots proppor will end up making the posts look ridiculous.

    Excrement is too narrow a term and doesn't describe the material we are talking about.
    Might get through the filter but in the context is just wrong.
     
  19. Here here! ;)
     
  20. mylesdw

    mylesdw Member

    Messages:
    664
    New Zealand
    I agree, it's become ridiculous (and surely discriminates against tourettes sufferers ).

    The other day on one of the classic car groups I used the word sh!t in conversation, not as an insult. Next thing I get a message saying my post had violated group policy. I thought, never mind, I'll just change the offending word, I was not attempting to be rude but not a bit of it - I had been automatically barred from posting for 24 hours. I left the group.
     
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