Ashley Burton
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What issues are you having with it?I have a Nimrod (Iroda) SolderPro 120k - paid £75 for it and I hate it...![]()
My Portasol was £37, Apparently they're the same as the Snap On rebranded one!
What issues are you having with it?I have a Nimrod (Iroda) SolderPro 120k - paid £75 for it and I hate it...![]()
I have just ordered some solder sleeves https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterpro...hash=item444f793fd3:m:m_bDYc5ozUEYtpkREtkDgaQ to use with my rework station https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/858D-220...224394?hash=item3d9402eb8a:g:V-kAAOSwoLRdifRz . Will post a review if they are any good. Also I bought leaded solder from ebay recently which is very good https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weller-E...187221&hash=item3f7b77b9c0:g:CHEAAOSwcgNZCGdx

I ordered these as you got loads for not a lot of money https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100Pc-So...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649I looked at those on a car web site last night, they seem to do the job well, but they were a fiver for five pieces.
I have about about two dozen butt splices or more to do.
What issues are you having with it?
My Portasol was £37, Apparently they're the same as the Snap On rebranded one!
I ordered these as you got loads for not a lot of money https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100Pc-Solder-Sleeve-Seal-Heat-Shrink-Electrical-Butt-Wire-Terminal-Connector-Kit/401971600698?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I bet they are all made in the same factory. Ordered them a couple of weeks ago so I'm hoping the slow boat from China will be arriving soon.They look like a good deal. I wonder how they differ to the millionaires version I saw?
I bet they are all made in the same factory. Ordered them a couple of weeks ago so I'm hoping the slow boat from China will be arriving soon.

The above made an old man laugh - LOL
Back to the subject:
I am a Auto Electrician - I do allot of soldering in awkward positions. Its OK with copper wires and older type solder - but new ALU strand wire and solder - you need plenty of heat/flux. You also need to get the connections you are soldering in the right "plane" - as ALU drips/runs.
Someone metioned above ALU does not have a "tinning effect" - it does - but it is harder to achieve (or impossible sometimes). Mild acid cleaning helps - (the mild acid in question is strong wheel cleaning acid to me and you). I have this acid in a small tub and apply in with a artists paintbrush - dry off with an airline - five litre can of wheel cleaning acid will last me ten+ lifetimes - one drip at a time.
ALU wires and components oxidise over time - it is this oxide that is the problem.
There is a lot on the internet - mostly from the USA - about ALU metal content repair soldering.
Absolute life saver one of them !!A few months I bought a little gadget with arms like a robot, that hold the two wires where you want them. It was for soldering some wires on my bike, where I needed at least three hands to hold the wires and gun. Works quite well. Those wires were smaller than the ones I’m playing with now though.
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so rather than buy a dozen extra rolls I shall splice/solder/heat shrink some black in underneath the floor, where they will never be seen again
And you hold the iron and solder with you other two hands I guess
Right up to the point where you get some random problem that you spend ages tracking down
given all the money you have probably spent on the rod I would get more cable and avoid unnecessary joints

Didn't even know they had ALU wires in cars. Whats the reason ?
And if I can find the actual colour
