Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

[mike os]

I don't go back in the shop once I come out, all my designing is done in my head usually in the bath I never write anything down or do drawings etc, I just shut my eyes and imagine what I want it to look like, then I go make it.

I hate you already!

 

[Parm]

Interesting, i do alot of driving early morning and late afternoon as part of my job and goota say i do most of my creative thinking while driving, like you i never draw or write anything down, just have a vision and then go make, howver not quite to the same standard as your good self !!

 

[langy]

Managed to get back on this today so started sorting out the doors, the doors that came with the cab were pretty aweful and fitted where they touched !!!
Solution was to make up part of the door inner front from the Coupe mould and graft it into the pickup doors.








Next a trial fit to mark the cutouts for the hinges.








The stainless steel hinges were marked and cut to length (they come longer than you need) then the mounting holes were marked and drilled.










I keep hearing about people that struggle to drill stainless so heres a couple of video's

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[langy]

Last couple of evenings i've been working on the doors, I've learnt a lot too !!!, you wouldn't believe how many small differences there are between 40 & 41 doors !!!
Anyway I got the new section bolted in and hinging.










Next job was to cut its opposite number out of the door inner










To hold the inner in place I cut some ply blocks the required thickness and temporaliy attached them to the door frame then used a couple of screws to position the door inner, I used tape to hold it in place around the screen pillars and used mat & resin to glue the parts together,
















Once the matt had cured I transferred to the bench, here you can see where some of the contours don't line up.












Next on the agenda is this top corner





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[langy]

A bit more done last few evenings, these doors look like they have never been fitted, i'm not surprised really as they are all over the gaff !!!

Sorted the top front corner, a piece of plastic sheet was curved and held in place with some screws, the glass don't stick to the plastic and it leaves a nice smooth surface. I also replaced the return.


















Next I had to do something with the top return as it was as straight as a dogs hind leg !!! dotted line shows what had to be removed.














The bottom front corner was pretty mishapen so chopped it off and reglassed it.








Tomorrow I have to sort the bottom of the door which is like the sea !!!

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[langy]

Todays first job was to sort out the bottom of the inner skin, for some reason it was terribly bowed, this picture shows it but it was much worse but last night i clamped it to some box section and left it overnight, got rid of a lot of the bow but still not good enough so out with the box section and clamps to get it straight and then a piece of 3/4" x 16swg box was glassed in.














I rough sanded the repairs to see how they looked, still a bit more sanding needed but they are now looking much better. I shot a quick coat of aerosol primer on the get a better looksee.









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[Wallace]

The purple mouldings really don't look very good, are you going to use them or will they be a buck for a mould?

 

[langy]

The purple mouldings really don't look very good, are you going to use them or will they be a buck for a mould?

I'm putting it all right as I go so they will be spot on for when we make the mould, main cab and door skins are ok, just the inners that had to have work, no big deal as I have access to an original for measurements etc
This cab was a lightweight race body so was a bit on the floppy side, a beefed up now and dimensionally correct.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I'm putting it all right as I go so they will be spot on for when we make the mould, main cab and door skins are ok, just the inners that had to have work, no big deal as I have access to an original for measurements etc
This cab was a lightweight race body so was a bit on the floppy side, a beefed up now and dimensionally correct.

Wouldn't it have been easier to use the original to make a mould ?

 

[langy]

Wouldn't it have been easier to use the original to make a mould ?

I never thought of that !!! No seriously its a painted finished car, The Willys was a very cheap car when built and they were a favorite with the racers because they were very thin metal & ultra light, You can probably guess where this is going They therefore rusted quite badly, the chances of finding a good one here is fairly close to nil as they were never made here. I know of a few but all the bodywork would have to be done first before pulling a mould so its easier to sort this one out.

 

[langy]

The door inners are now pretty much there now which left one last job before I start putting metal and windows in, the job was to put in a return to mount the whisker strips onto, this is one job I always do on a glass car as looking in the window opening there is nothing worse than seeing the door inards, it really spoils any nicely built car.
So around the opening was keyed up and I mixed up some chopped mat and resin, I call it strawberry but its also known as bridger, its basically small chopped fibreglass strands mixed in resin to form a paste, its very handy for certain jobs.








Next I started installing the window channel, to hold the channel I split a piece of 20mm x 1.6mm box in half which gave me 2 10mm deep channels, the felt window runner is a nice snug fit in this.












Next I cut some 5mm ply to shape as a window template and formed the felt channel around it.





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[langy]

A bit more progress, started framing up.









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[langy]

Bit more done to bore you all

I usually like manual window winders in an old car but as I didn't have any VW winding mechanisms in stock I decided to use some electric units I stock, I guess as I sell and endorse these kits I really should use them as well !!!

First job was to modify the top mount as it wasn't how I wanted it, Chopped it off and welded my version on.








I modified the bottom mount to my liking also, all the holes are drilled 1/4" while I set it all up then I drill out to 3/8" to allow a bit of adjustment in all directions.










I also fixed a steady for the motor








Heres the mechanism in place, Its really a great little kit that works great, comes with switches & wiring harness but I won't be using them as I don't want the look of modern switches.








This is a shot of the clamping system, A great idea that works








The top limit relies on the bracket I cut off so I spun up a buffer in the lathe for the end of the travel. also clipped up the exhaust tube.










Heres what i'm using in place of the modern rocker switches, they use micro switches for up & down action, i'm using 34 ford winder handles, modern windows with an old look.












Here the switches are mounted in simple brackets.










Next job was to bond in the window channel, using Polyeurathe Adhesieve Sealant, sticks anything like **** to a blanket !!!










I found these door actuators on my shelf and they are just the right length and will take the 34 ford handles perfectly. Locks are some slim bearjaw locks I had kicking around.







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[anjum]

Love the handle switch!!

 

[langy]

Had to knock off a bit earlier today as we have friends coming

but I did get the windows all going up & down nice & smoothly

Also I knew space was tight for the bearjaw locks so had to form a slight bulge in the door jam to accommodate them, it will also make life easy for prospective customers as its a standard lock I keep in stock.

Hers a few pics and a short video





Video

Heres the whisker trim and where it will fit








Here the lock position and the bulge I formed, all done with a bit of shaped wood and masking tape











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[clarkey31]

Loving this project and the attention to detail you are putting in to it.
Gavin

 

[langy]

Loving this project and the attention to detail you are putting in to it.
Gavin

Thanks Gavin, it keeps me busy

 

[langy]

I got the lock in last night, space was pretty tight. I also got the handle actuator sorted also











There is a plate that ties the lock into the frame which the nuts are welded to, forgot take a pic.














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[langy]

More progress, nearly there. I splashed some black epoxy on the inner last night to tidy it up and just fitted it up after tea, next job is to fit the striker on the door jamb and mount the outer door skin & outer handle.
Someone mentioned the raised door lock, they suggested it might catch the door jamb when opened

It won't because its only raised 5/16" and the jamb has 1/2" of clearance

Hopefully tomorrow night the tinted acrylic will be here so I can fit the proper window

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[MG David]

I do like the electric window mechanism. Nice and simple. Presumably they could be used at an angle if the installation called fro that?