dobbslc
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Rex Judd or R Aguis?
- Thread starter Cato
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Dave Potts, or something like that. A shed down a back alley, no front shop.
He specialised in ex-army bikes, still had loads of B40s when I was there.
I meant to go back to him and get a later Armstrong.
Cato
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I used an MT500 as a daily/commuter for a couple of years 80 miles a day, but that was some time ago and I wouldn't fancy it now. LH kick start on a 500 single with a habit of biting hard, drum brakes, really heavy and lumpfuls of torque made for quite the experience.
The MT350 was a softer version with better brakes, road manners and electric start. I had one for about 6 months and got rid as without all the draw backs/character it was just a poor soft roader, plus it said "Harley Davidson" on the side panels and I didn't fancy buying a Blue Oyster outfit to go with it.The Can Ams are a really good little 250 commuter but they were subject to abuse and neglect so can give a poor account of themselves with badly set up brakes, forks not serviced, shocks knackered etc.
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Hope you're paying yourself double time today 
Cato
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Absolutely, unfortunately the starting rate is zero so it may as well be treble time for all the difference it makes.Hope you're paying yourself double time today
Memmeddu
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Nothing special today just applied a piece of duct tape on the ICS logo on the M4A1 I'm building cause it was horrible to see.
And applied a sticker on it.
Leaving visible the model number (no fake serial number from the sticker)
And left well visible the writing "Airsoft Electric Gun Manufactured by ICS Taiwan" to avoid problems
Shame they applied this last signature right where should be engraved "Colt Hartford Connecticut"
I have that sticker as well but preferred to leave the Airsoft writing mentioned up above.
I might get the fake QR codes for the other side.
And I have to cobble together a sticker for the M203 launcher
And applied a sticker on it.
Leaving visible the model number (no fake serial number from the sticker)
And left well visible the writing "Airsoft Electric Gun Manufactured by ICS Taiwan" to avoid problems
Shame they applied this last signature right where should be engraved "Colt Hartford Connecticut"
I have that sticker as well but preferred to leave the Airsoft writing mentioned up above.
I might get the fake QR codes for the other side.
And I have to cobble together a sticker for the M203 launcher
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Meant to have a better look at that when I was down there. Making one is top of my bucket list. I have the plans I bought years ago. A bit antiquated aesthetically but the underpinning design is sound.
I shall need a motorbike as the basis of course.
Cato
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I'm always impressed when people do stuff like that which takes great patience to complete something with no practical purpose, just the enjoyment with achievement of doing it.
Cato
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I don't think I'll be keeping it once it's back up and running, I got it purely as a nostalgia trip having worked on them 35 years ago. Consequently it won't be much money so if you fancy cutting the build corner you're welcome to pop up for a good look and a chat if you get chance.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Sounds good. Let me have first refusal if you would!
Cato
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Will do.
Memmeddu
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That's really nothing special.I'm always impressed when people do stuff like that which takes great patience to complete something with no practical purpose, just the enjoyment with achievement of doing it.
My first AEG, that one was a challenge
That's an early 2000 limited edition ICS M4A1.
I've bought it maybe 3 years ago.
It took me several months to complete the build and customization.
The gears adjustment took about 10 hours straight of shimming, testing, measurements, disassembly and assembly in loop till I've accomplished the desired goal of 0.03mm axial tolerance Wich is way over the average airsoft technician acceptable tolerance of 0.2 to 0.1mm
Replaced all the bushings, the gears, the motor, spring, guides, piston, cylinder and related heads, new hop up chamber and precision barrel.
Everything needed adjustment to work smoothly.
Aesthetically I've replaced the stock with a real AR-15 stock (FAB DEFENCE GLR-16) and real steel foregrip.
Painted the rail covers.
Practically I've added a single point sling plate on the buffer tube, an EOTech 558 replica and an AN-PEQ 15 replica.
While for that one
To make it as historically accurate as possible.
The leaf ladder sight build but you might be tired about it
It'll later receive mechanical attention too but till it works.
Cato
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Home stretch with the 3TA, but it's fighting all the way.
It runs really nicely but with two problems to sort which is galling given how close it is to being done. Firstly the distributor pops out after a short while no matter what I do with the clamp which seems to be distorted in a couple of directions. I've given up trying to make it work and found a NOS clamp for £20:00.
The other issue is an intermittent issue with the Amal where the float valve randomly decides it doesn't want to seal. So that's coming off for a stern talking to.
It runs really nicely but with two problems to sort which is galling given how close it is to being done. Firstly the distributor pops out after a short while no matter what I do with the clamp which seems to be distorted in a couple of directions. I've given up trying to make it work and found a NOS clamp for £20:00.
The other issue is an intermittent issue with the Amal where the float valve randomly decides it doesn't want to seal. So that's coming off for a stern talking to.
Cato
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Using my patented (it's not, help yourselves ) valve seat facing technique that issue's sorted.
Drop a suitably sized ball bearing onto the valve seat, give it a few taps and voila. The valve seat being fairly soft brass, and the ball bearing being hard steel, means that it crates an even, flat dish on the seat face.
) valve seat facing technique that issue's sorted.Drop a suitably sized ball bearing onto the valve seat, give it a few taps and voila. The valve seat being fairly soft brass, and the ball bearing being hard steel, means that it crates an even, flat dish on the seat face.
Using my patented (it's not, help yourselves
Drop a suitably sized ball bearing onto the valve seat, give it a few taps and voila. The valve seat being fairly soft brass, and the ball bearing being hard steel, means that it crates an even, flat dish on the seat face.
View attachment 524953
And Triumph plunger type oil pumps.
Although as the valve seems to have a viton tip I'd also check the pivot pin and fuel tank / filter system. I once had a filter that gave off "hairs" from the filter material and was a pita until binned.
Memmeddu
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Had carb issues lately with my Genset engine driven welder (Lombardini gasoline engine).
Few delicate hammer taps solved the problem
