The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
I feel old now.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
qwakers
Member
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- 2,646
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- cornwall, united kingdom
the bike is a bitsa, someone had started to cafe racer it so loads of bit missing, the rest where straight up wrong. the wheels that used to be on it are also in the picture. its being built up as a cx500-c, just because dad like that spec better.
I made a sound turkey soup ready for bracing us against tomorrows bone chilling weather whilst at Fizzy's unit .
$%$£&*& well done that. Years ago I found I had a crank bearing cap bolt hiding under rags in the parts box just as I was about to lower the engine in place
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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My good friend, you had engines back then?
IIRC April 1968 , still doing my apprenticeship , when at home on leave I stripped , cleaned , examined to the Nth degree & rebuilt my brothers 1958 .. A35 van engine after checking the bores and re ringing the pistons with Duoflex oil scraper rings.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 13,138
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Most miffed! Still full of cold and running on Lemsip I was just digging away with my repaired tool and came across a "bit of metal". "Oh no I thought, my crap welding has failed!" It looked just like one of the tool prongs. The tool, cover in mud just so happened to be orientated so I could see my repaired prong. All good and holding up a treat. So I absentmindedly launched the piece. It was only once I knocked the clod off the tool I realised it was ANOTHER prong that's broken off. Now I've got to go through a mound of dirt to find it.
BrokenBiker
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- 12,581
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- Newport, South Wales
Haven't fixed it yet, but this has just landed on the bench after a chain gave way and decimated the cheap cast ally housing for the shaft the chain was running...the drive is for the feed rollers on a thicknesser that my wood butcher father bought a few weeks ago.
2mm cast ally, seems weldable, not massively dirty. Will be repaired and modified a bit for some extra strength as the bit that broke off is just free floating and takes a reasonable load as the end bearing sits inside. The little broken off nub isn't needed so that's going to get chopped and filled over.
Only major concern is straightness and the bearing seat
Tacked up at the moment, now to attack with the die grinder
2mm cast ally, seems weldable, not massively dirty. Will be repaired and modified a bit for some extra strength as the bit that broke off is just free floating and takes a reasonable load as the end bearing sits inside. The little broken off nub isn't needed so that's going to get chopped and filled over.
Only major concern is straightness and the bearing seat
Tacked up at the moment, now to attack with the die grinder
Nomad
Member
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- 2,311
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- North Devon (for how long?)
Spent an hour today fixing a sturdy jack that I was given a while ago. Declared faults were:
It goes up ok but won’t go down.
Turning the handle does nothing, you need to undo the valve manually with a lever.
Valve is now freed off ( odd - I stripped it and nothing was stuck??)
Also shimmed the internal hex drive in the handle so release now works.
New problems:
How do I straighten the bent return spring?
Jack goes up ok but only to 80%. Needs bleeding & fluid change? Advice welcome.
It all counts as progress
It goes up ok but won’t go down.
Turning the handle does nothing, you need to undo the valve manually with a lever.
Valve is now freed off ( odd - I stripped it and nothing was stuck??)
Also shimmed the internal hex drive in the handle so release now works.
New problems:
How do I straighten the bent return spring?
Jack goes up ok but only to 80%. Needs bleeding & fluid change? Advice welcome.
It all counts as progress
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,144
- Location
- Going Away.
Place on level ground.
Loosen the screw that's lowers it.
Remove the rubber bung, top up with fresh jack oil( machine mart or Halfords.0
Pump the handle about thirty times. Tighten the lowering screw. Pump it should raise up. If not repeat the no load action.
Then place a weight on it and raise and lower.
That should do it.
qwakers
Member
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- cornwall, united kingdom
so to finish this off, it deadjusted itself again the next time i drove it. today i took a bit of time to fit the replacement mech id had sitting on the bench a while. in the process of doing so i had to remove the steering control arm as its in the way of the lower bolt. not a issue, right?
the caliper having been refitted, i hand threaded the nut on to ensure it isn't cross threaded, then the big impact was used to run it down.... and the thread immediately disintegrated. balls. worst thing is this is the end with the non replaceable rod end. so that's a new control arm needed then. having taken it off i had a feel of the ball joint, to find it rough as a badgers. hmm says i, what's the betting the ball joints on the steering drag link are just as bad.... indeed they are, so that will be both arms i need then. £250 later those are ordered....
still at least the caliper is good now....
CompoSimmonite
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- 6,016
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- Werrington, Staffordshire Moorlands.
Had two "base" models, a CX500C and a Eurosport. All great bikes
There's the reason why all the dispatch riders used them back in the day. Well not all, I knew a huge great bloke who used an MZ250, and he went everywhere on that but he was the exception. His other bike was a Rickman CR1000, which is how I got to know him because I had one of those at the time as well.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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- 7,909
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- Teesside, England
My first thought when I saw your pics was Mazak/Zamak, the zinc alloy - used for precision casting of carburettors and the like. It has that sort of sheen.
Anyway, as you know it's just about unweldable, won't glue with any strength, bloody 'orrible stuff.
... so fortunate if it's an aluminium alloy
BrokenBiker
Member
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- 12,581
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- Newport, South Wales
This is off a zelcan branded planer thicknesser, although highly likely to be Chinese origin given the price of it.My first thought when I saw your pics was Mazak/Zamak, the zinc alloy - used for precision casting of carburettors and the like. It has that sort of sheen.
Anyway, as you know it's just about unweldable, won't glue with any strength, bloody 'orrible stuff.
... so fortunate if it's an aluminium alloy
I did worry it was going to be unweldable when I saw the initial pictures, but in person it does look more like aluminium than the photos suggest.
Some stiffening plates to go on tomorrow afternoon, and a tweak to the design to support the over hand when it's reinstalled, quick spin in the lathe to sort the bearing seat and it should be ready to go back to work.
I went over to look at the chain earlier to size it for a replacement...never seen a chain so cheap...luckily, it's a direct match for a single speed bike chain from Halfords, and there's enough length on the new one to get 3 out of it with split links
ajlelectronics
Member
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- 11,088
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- Gloucester, England
I did all mine first on a CB250 Superdream (on L plates) through that really bad winter in the early 80s and then a BMW R100RT.
What make is this POS I wonder?Spent an hour today fixing a sturdy jack that I was given a while ago. Declared faults were:
It goes up ok but won’t go down.
Turning the handle does nothing, you need to undo the valve manually with a lever.
View attachment 524752
Valve is now freed off ( odd - I stripped it and nothing was stuck??)
Also shimmed the internal hex drive in the handle so release now works.
New problems:
How do I straighten the bent return spring?
Jack goes up ok but only to 80%. Needs bleeding & fluid change? Advice welcome.
It all counts as progress
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,646
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,646
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
omp loom repair was a bit complicated, having to meter it out for 2 white/red wires (meters as common in main loom so no issues there) and 3 brown which involved checking pinout and identifying each individual wire. got there in the end
and then just dressing the engine, hunting out coolant hoses out of stock that fit, finding oil cooler hoses to replace the 2 cut ones, putting my spare rrp coils and msd leads on it (big sad, those where my test set, now i dont have any...)
i need to chase the threads on the l1 plug as it wont screw in, then its time to fit the engine.
