- Thread starter Cato
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Can you tune my Suron for 100+ mph?On another note, people seem to get quite miffed when they enquire about stuff on e-bikes and I say I don't work on them.
Cato
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It's partly because I have absolutely no interest in working on them, but mainly because of the insurance. If I work on them in any way it trebles my business insurance which means I'd need to have an extra £5k profit from working on them just to break even.You don't want a fire in your workshop from some wet abused cheap Chinese electric bike or scooter which reminds me that I have to get my wet abused electric scooter out of my workshop
As I don't the restrictions are quite strict with a ban on them being in or near the workshop. If they are and there's a fire whether or not they're the cause cover's cancelled. The reason I was given is that if there's a fire and there's an EV in there it's going to be a total loss claim.
Cato
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That's another factor, the majority of the pilots are bell ends and there's an automatic "batter it until it stops moving" policy for balaclavas.Can you tune my Suron for 100+ mph?
Farside
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I wouldn't face the sockets upwards.
Cato
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Ordinarily I wouldn't but that's the best orientation for cable runs.
I'll be sorting out some decent boots for the plugs so it should be OK and given what the bike is it's unlikely to see any rain.
Farside
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I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.Ordinarily I wouldn't but that's the best orientation for cable runs.
I'll be sorting out some decent boots for the plugs so it should be OK and given what the bike is it's unlikely to see any rain.
Cato
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I wouldn't spend too much time worrying about it. The only difference with plugs up is direct downwards water which will be next to zero in that position. Lay them flat or facing down and capillary action wicks moisture along the wires inside the loom but most issues with moisture for ECUs comes from ingress into the ecu case itself.I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
So however it's positioned the important parts are case seals and connector boots.
Memmeddu
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Corrigendum
You're not interested in working on things that doesn't brum brum and occasionally pops or bang
4" angle grinder with a 1mm slitting blade and then a flap wheel to tidy up to make two parallels out of two thicknesses at once when clamped together , then spray with the matt undercoat and scribe the design on the outer sides or make a plastic template so you can repeat it accurately in the same position on both sides .
Carefully & accurately put both pieces taped together ( if needed held together accurately with a few cm of clear sticky tape ) in the vice protected with strips of cut open copper pipe . .
Use a Dremel with abrasive disc to carefully remove the metals and then a Swiss triangular & round warding files to get the final bits down to the lines .
Memmeddu
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It's a lot smaller than it looks even the 76mm grinder have too much blade and you're not able to cut enough to part off the parts without touching edges you don't want to damage.
First attempt failed because of that.
A Dremel might work but I don't have one.
I'm now using 3mm flat material but it was supposed to be 2mm and I failed with it already so attempting to cut using the grinder is not an option unfortunately.
I have to finish it up with a needle file there's really no other options.
Once finished to shape I have to carefully make it thinner usi the belt grinder.
Memmeddu
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I don't have a suitable one for the task
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Can you get metal cutting blades for a coping saw?.
Memmeddu
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Honestly I don't think so, ironmongery over here often don't have even nails
An abrafile blade in a hacksaw or coping saw would be good for roughing that out.
An abrafile blade is a round wire blade coated in carbide grit. It is made to cut in any direction.
I would have thinned that metal to the correct thickness first with machine tools.
By leaving it full thickness you are giving yourself 1/3 more work with hand tools!
I know to one of those but cant mention him on the forums.Every now and then you need to go old school. So I'm pressing the Bradley into use looking for a parasitic drain.
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Memmeddu
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I've leaved it full thickness both to make more accurate holes and having enough meat to bite in the vice jaws.
It's all done using handheld tools, the extra thickness allowed me to have more tolerance for mistakes and more guide for the drill bits while cutting the edge on edge and actually making them open to each others, trying to save the bits.
I've eventually avoided to drill through the thing walls between the holes but the original idea was to chain drill the shapes.
I might reduce the thickness now prior to finish it up.
I want to clarify that I'm not trying to say your advice are wrong I just didn't think about something and considered something else but eventually decided to not do something following my logic (that might be wrong) trying to avoid to break drill bits.
That's not only towards you I'm thankful for all the advice received and I'll try them on the next jobs (I'm thinking about a Karl Gustav or a mortar or even an AEG Browning M2
)It's an hard concept to translate from Italian and I'm kinda worried about being misunderstood
