addjunkie
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Hope your not planning to charge your car, while running the rotary convertor on a Sunday when your Mrs is cooking Sunday dinner.
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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My missus never cooks Sunday dinner so it won't be a problem. If I'd have stuck with her (ex) best mate it might have been. (She really could cook).
Our supply is normally 240V, the voltage at the in
Depending on cable run you may be OK with an MCB for the solar.
Breaker for the solar can go in there with everything else. Just needs to be the correct type and either 2 pole or SP+N. The Hager RCBO in ours is double width, but I think Fusebox are single.
Depending on cable run you may be OK with an MCB for the solar.
addjunkie
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You obviously swapped for a reason…..is this one better at digging trenches for SWA or something? Does you Mrs think you should have stuck with her mate too!
Onoff
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I know when to stop digging...other than the one I've got to dig for the cable...
addjunkie
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Just keep the trench narrow enough so when she knocks you on the back of the head, you dont fall in ready for backfill!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I'll jump in voluntarily!
Make it a bit wider some of us might appreciate the space with you.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Sorry, me again! Ref the solar side, that 1% volt drop.....as in it shouldn't exceed 2.3V at 230V?
Hoping I can use this bit of 16mm² for a new supply to the garage and to allow for PV in the garage later.
Basing on giving 32A provision to the garage cu.
So:
24m run
32A
2.8mV/A/m for 16mm², looking at table 4D4B.
The 2.8mV/A/m is for 2-core single phase AC.
So 2.15V drop. Just under the 1%.
Should I not though be looking at the run to the charger i.e the 31m rather than the garage cu?
RaceDiagnostics
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The volt drop to the charger won't be spec'ed at 1%, it is less critical than the volt drop from the solar inverter to the incoming supply.
In fact I think you are over spec'ed on your cable. What will the max output be for your solar inverter.
Use that to get the volt drop from the inverter to the incoming supply.
In fact I think you are over spec'ed on your cable. What will the max output be for your solar inverter.
Use that to get the volt drop from the inverter to the incoming supply.
sparkysy
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Hi Clive,
Yes the solar volt drop is 1% @ 230v.
The car charger will be max 5% at the charger.
What size PV system are you planning on installing?
A lot of the grid tie ones are limited to 16-20a
I based the calculation on a 32a supply as that will cover the 7kw EV charger.
16mm will more than cover the PV volt drop as @RaceDiagnostics says above, it will also give you some flexibility for future installation of more kit
Yes the solar volt drop is 1% @ 230v.
The car charger will be max 5% at the charger.
What size PV system are you planning on installing?
A lot of the grid tie ones are limited to 16-20a
I based the calculation on a 32a supply as that will cover the 7kw EV charger.
16mm will more than cover the PV volt drop as @RaceDiagnostics says above, it will also give you some flexibility for future installation of more kit
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Am I correct that I do not need a standalone EV cu? Chap at work quite insistent I do!
As in it is ok for the opd for the EV charger to be in the/a cu along with other circuits.
Tentatively looking at this configuration. Yes aware it looks like I've missed an MCB for the SPD. Will probably use one of the new Fusebox cus that doesn't need an MCB for the SPD. The other circuits can be shuffled. Not sure how the PV feeds in, via an MCB?
nhbf
As in it is ok for the opd for the EV charger to be in the/a cu along with other circuits.
Tentatively looking at this configuration. Yes aware it looks like I've missed an MCB for the SPD. Will probably use one of the new Fusebox cus that doesn't need an MCB for the SPD. The other circuits can be shuffled. Not sure how the PV feeds in, via an MCB?
RaceDiagnostics
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The EV charger definitely doesn't need a separate CU.
As for layout it's recommended to space out your circuits especially the high load ones to allow a bit of circulation to cool the RCBOs etc.
If I ever get an EV I'll put the charger in place of the 32A commando circuit below.
Right to left I've got the spd, lighting, 16A commando, 32A ring, 32A commando.
I've never looked into solar so can't help there.
As for layout it's recommended to space out your circuits especially the high load ones to allow a bit of circulation to cool the RCBOs etc.
If I ever get an EV I'll put the charger in place of the 32A commando circuit below.
Right to left I've got the spd, lighting, 16A commando, 32A ring, 32A commando.
I've never looked into solar so can't help there.
Onoff
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Yep I've capacity to space things out and still have a couple spare.
So you don't go with the old thing of higher loads next to the DP switch? Layout wise lights on the right to EV on the left would be better for me tbh.
In a sense it's voltage rise that's a concern with solar. The worst case being when the solar is working flat out but there's no load being drawn in the garage.
But I do wonder where the 1% comes from. When we were applying for ours SSEN said they would permit export which would not exceed 1.3% voltage rise, total system size not to exceed 2.3%. All relative to our 240V existing supply. However the G.99 offer specified an absolute max voltage rise of 6V.
Onoff
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New all RCBO Fusebox cu for the garage and switchfuse ordered for the house. I'll ditch the DP switch the switchfuse comes with and fit a 100mA Type S RCD I have here doing nowt.
I'll be running then a 16 mm² SWA in a circa 63/50 mm duct. Still hunting some duct down on FB.
Plan is to run duct grade Cat cable in 20mm ducts within the 63/50 mm duct.
Seen some local, duct grade Cat-6e cheap, a part roll but it's not shielded. Does it have to be?
Cheers
I'll be running then a 16 mm² SWA in a circa 63/50 mm duct. Still hunting some duct down on FB.
Plan is to run duct grade Cat cable in 20mm ducts within the 63/50 mm duct.
Seen some local, duct grade Cat-6e cheap, a part roll but it's not shielded. Does it have to be?
Cheers
No.
You should probably make sure it's copper though, not CCA "copper clad aluminium". Unless you're running 10Gig Ethernet you don't need better than Cat 5e for networking. For other purposes people seem to take all sorts of liberties. For example the signalling for our solar is RS485 which is supposed to run on a single shielded twisted pair, but our installer just seemed to pick three cores at random from the Cat5e.
Onoff
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