Stuff you have fixed today

[Keithmac]

Had a pair of forks in today for a Moto Guzzi Brevia or Stelvio?. Both leaking oil.

Stripped them down, had to heat the Sliders to remove the seals.

Both forks had seals fitted upside down lol, second picture is how they should have been put in (before pressing them into the slider).

Must have been like that for a while before leaking?.

 

[dobbslc]

TRX in for nasty engine noises!.

Stripped it down and attempted to time it up, exhaust cam 1/2 tooth out and inlet 1.5 tooth out. Camchain tensioner on it's limit.

Being only "18,000" mile this was quite a surprise.

Reshipped all valves as cams had to come out anyway.

Had to remove oil scavenge and pressure pumps to replace camchains. Both pump gaskets obsolete!. Luckily ebay to the rescue with some NOS gaskets (this job would have been a fail without those).

All timed up and shimmed, good as gold now.

Trying to work out if inlet had actually jumped a tooth or if chain was just that badly stretched?.

Anyway, got away with another job with ebay sourced parts, all OEM luckily.

View attachment 496364View attachment 496365View attachment 496366View attachment 496367View attachment 496368View attachment 496369

Gulp!
Mines on about that milage

 

[Keithmac]

Gulp!
Mines on about that milage

Hopefully yours is OK but it's quite common for chain to stretch apparently.

All I can say with a new chain the timing marks are bang on.

I could have re-timed this with inlet one tooth advanced and left the exhaust retarded (it does appear some owners actually will do this) but there was still nothing left for the tensioner to tension.

We bought the last timing chain and timing cover gasket from Fowlers for this job by the look of it (both out of stock now).

 

[RichardM]

Hopefully yours is OK but it's quite common for chain to stretch apparently.

All I can say with a new chain the timing marks are bang on.

I could have re-timed this with inlet one tooth advanced and left the exhaust retarded (it does appear some owners actually will do this) but there was still nothing left for the tensioner to tension.

We bought the last timing chain and timing cover gasket from Fowlers for this job by the look of it (both out of stock now).

And on some of them the valves sink into the head! Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

 

[Keithmac]

And on some of them the valves sink into the head! Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

It does appear to have a nickel coated frame.

Not worked on a TRX for a long while before this one!.

It does have a bit of clutch basket noise as well but not really an issue.

 

[Seadog]

Had a pair of forks in today for a Moto Guzzi Brevia or Stelvio?. Both leaking oil.

Stripped them down, had to heat the Sliders to remove the seals.

Both forks had seals fitted upside down lol, second picture is how they should have been put in (before pressing them into the slider).

Must have been like that for a while before leaking?.

View attachment 496375

View attachment 496376

I wonder if they fitted by someone who didn't have clue, or who used twisted logic? As in: If the forks are upside down then the seals should be reversed.

 

[dobbslc]

Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

I didn't know they did a nickel plated frame, is it real plating?

 

[Danez]

Did some 'MOT welding' on the jag. set myself a day to start and finish so glad i did it all in time. Not my finest work but should get me through an MOT. Would have been better to remove the plate connecting the subframe to the body first but those threads are just completely gone
might do it proper someday..

Wasn't taking any chances with the fuel tank

Lovely job to do in 24° weather!

 

[droopsnoot]

Finally had another go at fixing the constantly dribbling flush valve in the toilet just now. Last time I tried to remove it (it's a Siamp bayonet-fit valve) the fitting in the bottom of the cistern was starting to turn so, fearing escalation, I gave up and put it back together. This time it just came undone, so I've no idea what's changed. The rubber washer had no visible limescale or anything, but it was covered in a lot of black "stuff" that got all over the sink and my hands, but I've washed it all off. There's a slight hint of being a bit of an uneven surface on the washer, so I've put it back in the other way up so it's using the other surface to mate on. I've also made a note of the dimensions so if it's not fixed the problem, I can buy a washer in advance of trying again.

Let's hope it fixes the issue as I've just had a water bill and it's gone up quite a bit, probably mainly the change from this thing sometimes dribbling to it virtually always doing so.

 

[RichardM]

I didn't know they did a nickel plated frame, is it real plating?

Not as std, owner may have had it done, which is why I asked if it was nickel plated, if it is paint I may get xt done like it next time.

 

[Mick Annick]

The rubber washer had no visible limescale or anything, but it was covered in a lot of black "stuff" that got all over the sink and my hands, but I've washed it all off. There's a slight hint of being a bit of an uneven surface on the washer, so I've put it back in the other way up so it's using the other surface to mate on. I've also made a note of the dimensions so if it's not fixed the problem, I can buy a washer in advance of trying again.

I had the same black stuff last time I did mine - also a SIAMP bayonet type - it was the seal breaking down.

 

[MysterG]

As part of my mission to try and make my MG more visible to todays blind drivers I have been fitting LED indicators.
Did the rear fine, but came unstuck at the front by a previous owners bodge.
Now given I've owned the car for 30+ years still finding previous owner bodges is pretty special.

New LED bulb was loose in the holder and as such did not work.
Reason: the sprung contact was not springy.
Some clever sod had built up solder on the end of the bulb so it would still make contact at the back of the holder, rather than replace the spring...
Or maybe they did replace the spring but with something home made and lacking in 'spring' that just squashed up.

Luckily it's one of those Austin/Morris/MG/BL parts bin parts so I was able to get one from a local classic Mini specialist.

All fitted today and nice bright LED indicators all round.


In the process the NS sidelights packed up but that's a different story.
Impressed that the bulb has lasted 30+ years without me replacing it. They don't make stuff like they used to.

 

[RWD3M]

As part of my mission to try and make my MG more visible to todays blind drivers I have been fitting LED indicators.
Did the rear fine, but came unstuck at the front by a previous owners bodge.
Now given I've owned the car for 30+ years still finding previous owner bodges is pretty special.

New LED bulb was loose in the holder and as such did not work.
Reason: the sprung contact was not springy.
Some clever sod had built up solder on the end of the bulb so it would still make contact at the back of the holder, rather than replace the spring...
Or maybe they did replace the spring but with something home made and lacking in 'spring' that just squashed up.

View attachment 496432

Luckily it's one of those Austin/Morris/MG/BL parts bin parts so I was able to get one from a local classic Mini specialist.

All fitted today and nice bright LED indicators all round.


In the process the NS sidelights packed up but that's a different story.
Impressed that the bulb has lasted 30+ years without me replacing it. They don't make stuff like they used to.

I'm only 7 minutes walk from there, fatal when you have a classic Mini!

 

[droopsnoot]

I had the same black stuff last time I did mine - also a SIAMP bayonet type - it was the seal breaking down.

Cheers, sounds as if it would be sensible to buy another seal and have it ready to swap. In terms of results, I haven't heard it randomly re-fill itself in the time since I cleaned it, so maybe it's OK for a while.

 

[qwakers]

spent the day doing some cosmetic work on the lorry. then project creep happened and it turned into 3 hours with a wire wheel and prep disk to go back to bare metal and a total repaint.

as usual, i spoiled the job for a ha'p'orth of tar... instead of doing it right and stripping it back to bare metal and fibreglass, i left the cheap 1k primer underneath and sprayed the raptor over the top. the raptor stayed stuck fine to the primer, the primer did not stay stuck to the base, however. i've cleaned it all back and sprayed rust reformer onto the metalwork, then some epoxy primer over the whole lot. i've also remade the panel edging to cover the entire added on part of the body out of aluminium (££££ ouch). all that's left to do is fill the weld lines, raptor the bits that are intended to be black, bolt down the new aluminium body capping to the rear floor edge, bolt the sides on and job jobbed.

 

[Dr.Al]

I woke up this morning to some desperate sounding miaowing and the sound of lots of scrabbling at the cat flap. On going downstairs, I found that our cat had dropped a bit of litter (she gets the bits stuck between her paw pads sometimes) on the threshold of the cat flap on the way out and it was stuck on a small lip at the bottom of the cat flap, preventing the flap from flapping:

A bit of attention with a chisel and then some sandpaper and hopefully that won't happen again:

 

[nickk]

Our sliding doors needed new rollers..5 years ago,finally got them off,heavy2x1.35m each,last did them at least 20 years ago,this time much quicker as I found an ID,so ordered by phone and arrived next day. Now even the kids can glide them one handed.

 

[Maker]

The fan on my welder was intermittent, then stopped working entirely and the case got scorching hot. Luckily I realised before I cooked any electronics. Also luckily it's the fan that's knackered rather than the power supply to it, so I've taken it out and rigged up a temporary replacement.

 

[dobbslc]

Safety first and all that

 

[dobbslc]

@Keithmac
Advice please!
I went to refit the TRX carbs and after I pulled the blue towel out of the inlet tract was faced with this

Fecking carb warmer pipe looks like it was touching the paper towel and wicked coolant down the inlet.
I'm going to suck it out with a wet vac...