Stuff you have fixed today

[brewdexta]

Started to fix the Tom Senior M1, or rather the motor and VFD. I converted the original Brooks Gryphon motor from star to delta by finding the star point and breaking it out into the individual windings. However, it was gutless. Life got in the way, and I acquired another Tom Senior, a light vertical, which meant I've only just got around to fixing it.

I suspect that I have one winding reversed, that is instead of a2 connecting to b1, and b2 to c1 and c2 to a1, one of these is reversed. I thought I would use the induced voltage method testing, using a 10v AC power supply, if its the right way around you get about 4v induced into the other winding. If all else fails I have a new motor, but that involves broaching a keyway.

I'm also replacing the VFD with a cold plate VFD, no annoying fan! I have a 40 ohm, 200 watt brake resistor on order, I'll compare before and after to see how much faster it slows down.

Pics next time, I'm in the pub!

Well its only been 6 months, about time I got back to this one and try and diagnose the gutless motor that I converted from start to delta by diving into the windings. I thought I had inadvertently reversed an a1 with an a2 or similar with b or c.

When I took it apart, it was obvious which one are a1, b1, c1 as they had the original black wiring connected to the external connection block. a2, b2 and c2 were in newer brown wiring that I used to extend the star point to the connection block. Before breaking it out, the motor would have been wired like this with the a2, b2 and c2 connected together at the star point as per the diagram below.

Tapping out the connections with the ohmmeter proved this to be so, I also checked the resistance of each coil, all about 12 ohms. I chased out how I had wired it when last working and it does seem to be all correct and now in delta formation as per below.

Just to be sure, I used the induced voltage method to double check, this is from another forum. I had bought an AC transformer for this forgetting that the wiring would be a different colour so thought I may as well check it out. The clips on the motor connection plate have the 9v AC supply.

"If you label the wires as A&A, B&B, C&C, then connect one of the B's to one of the C's
Connect the low voltage supply to the wires A&A

Then check for an induced voltage across the wires B & C that are not joined together. If a voltage is present the you have connected a B1 to a C2 - if not then you have connected a B1 to a C1. A voltage of 10VAC supplied to A&A will give about 4VAC across the B&C wires.

Then use this method again with the A&C wires joined and voltage applied to wires B1 & B2"

This confirmed I was doing it right, but the voltage was only about 2.8v instead of the 4v quoted above. I repeated this for all 3.

It looks like the motor is wired correctly. I'm tempted to try it with the new inverter before swapping it out for the new modern 2hp motor that I have as will need to broach a keyway, which means I will have to get back on the hydraulic press project.

So, not fixed yet but getting closer......

 

[nickk]

This valve block arrived today,customer couldn’t align the 4 mounting holes,a quick opening up slightly made me appreciate my seldom used mill,just 0.030”larger.

 

[Tupers]

The best part of 20 years dragging the Oerlikon around has taken its tole handle. I’ve improvised with a roughed up stainless tube and a load of epoxy, we’ll see how it holds up.

 

[Dcal]

Today I finished fixing my ancient MTD ride on lawn mower, again.

It's been behaving well the last year or so but the grass box started to open randomly and empty itself.

Finished cutting the grass and tidied up.
Had a look and the rear frame had rotted through.

I hadn't any pipe the same size so I decided to make a new frame.
I don't have a pipe bender (I know) so I needed to mitre and weld to fabricate the frame.
Single mitres would have left the corners too sharp so I doubled the work and used double mitres.

One trick I discovered, although I'm sure it's old hat, wàs when trying to get the mitres cut in the chop saw I always struggle to keep the pipe perpindicular to the first cut when performing the second cut.
So, I cut a longer piece of pipe leaving a tag so I could fold it in half.

Then clamped the free ends and cut to 22.5 degrees

I then turned the pipe around and cut the connected end to length and I've two equal lengths of pipe with the same mitres.

With that to done I repaired the other part of the frame, which was nowhere near as bad, but still needed two short bits replaced.

I blasted then applied a coat of epoxy zinc paint (Jotan Barrier 90) by brush and then a coat of black epoxy mastic (Interzone 954) by spray.
The zinc epoxy is anything but decorative but should last well.

I put it all back together and hopefully this bit will be good for another 25 years or so.

 

[Blobber]

LInk cleaned, painted and assembled, found a Lockheed truck cylinder boot that worked for the slidy rod bit to keep the water out

The adjusting lever was also missing due to heavy handedness so a new one got made out of some chopped up box section with a new knob and captive bolt wizzed up on the lathe
,
all works as it should now, nice and smooth

 

[addjunkie]

LInk cleaned, painted and assembled, found a Lockheed truck cylinder boot that worked for the slidy rod bit to keep the water out
View attachment 496327

The adjusting lever was also missing due to heavy handedness so a new one got made out of some chopped up box section with a new knob and captive bolt wizzed up on the lathe
,
all works as it should now, nice and smooth
View attachment 496332

Now it works you still wont use it, and it will end up siezed again.

 

[Farside]

Now it works you still wont use it, and it will end up siezed again.

Yeah, good intentions and all that.
I've lost track of the bits of kit that should be routinely cleaned and oiled after every (second, third or whatever) use and usually at the end of the task it's fecked back into the shed and "Do it tomorrow".

 

[Blobber]

Now it works you still wont use it, and it will end up siezed again.

The main aim was too remove the slope, about 1/4 inch in the top holes and about 3/4 inch where the big adjustable nut is inside the casting, not a problem with downwards weight but with the hedge flail the forces change from down to up which gave quite an alarming lurch!

Yeah, good intentions and all that.
I've lost track of the bits of kit that should be routinely cleaned and oiled after every (second, third or whatever) use and usually at the end of the task it's fecked back into the shed and "Do it tomorrow".

That's the trouble most of this stuff has been farmered!

 

[Keithmac]

TRX in for nasty engine noises!.

Stripped it down and attempted to time it up, exhaust cam 1/2 tooth out and inlet 1.5 tooth out. Camchain tensioner on it's limit.

Being only "18,000" mile this was quite a surprise.

Reshipped all valves as cams had to come out anyway.

Had to remove oil scavenge and pressure pumps to replace camchains. Both pump gaskets obsolete!. Luckily ebay to the rescue with some NOS gaskets (this job would have been a fail without those).

All timed up and shimmed, good as gold now.

Trying to work out if inlet had actually jumped a tooth or if chain was just that badly stretched?.

Anyway, got away with another job with ebay sourced parts, all OEM luckily.

 

[Keithmac]

Had a pair of forks in today for a Moto Guzzi Brevia or Stelvio?. Both leaking oil.

Stripped them down, had to heat the Sliders to remove the seals.

Both forks had seals fitted upside down lol, second picture is how they should have been put in (before pressing them into the slider).

Must have been like that for a while before leaking?.

 

[dobbslc]

TRX in for nasty engine noises!.

Stripped it down and attempted to time it up, exhaust cam 1/2 tooth out and inlet 1.5 tooth out. Camchain tensioner on it's limit.

Being only "18,000" mile this was quite a surprise.

Reshipped all valves as cams had to come out anyway.

Had to remove oil scavenge and pressure pumps to replace camchains. Both pump gaskets obsolete!. Luckily ebay to the rescue with some NOS gaskets (this job would have been a fail without those).

All timed up and shimmed, good as gold now.

Trying to work out if inlet had actually jumped a tooth or if chain was just that badly stretched?.

Anyway, got away with another job with ebay sourced parts, all OEM luckily.

View attachment 496364View attachment 496365View attachment 496366View attachment 496367View attachment 496368View attachment 496369

Gulp!
Mines on about that milage

 

[Keithmac]

Gulp!
Mines on about that milage

Hopefully yours is OK but it's quite common for chain to stretch apparently.

All I can say with a new chain the timing marks are bang on.

I could have re-timed this with inlet one tooth advanced and left the exhaust retarded (it does appear some owners actually will do this) but there was still nothing left for the tensioner to tension.

We bought the last timing chain and timing cover gasket from Fowlers for this job by the look of it (both out of stock now).

 

[RichardM]

Hopefully yours is OK but it's quite common for chain to stretch apparently.

All I can say with a new chain the timing marks are bang on.

I could have re-timed this with inlet one tooth advanced and left the exhaust retarded (it does appear some owners actually will do this) but there was still nothing left for the tensioner to tension.

We bought the last timing chain and timing cover gasket from Fowlers for this job by the look of it (both out of stock now).

And on some of them the valves sink into the head! Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

 

[Keithmac]

And on some of them the valves sink into the head! Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

It does appear to have a nickel coated frame.

Not worked on a TRX for a long while before this one!.

It does have a bit of clutch basket noise as well but not really an issue.

 

[Seadog]

Had a pair of forks in today for a Moto Guzzi Brevia or Stelvio?. Both leaking oil.

Stripped them down, had to heat the Sliders to remove the seals.

Both forks had seals fitted upside down lol, second picture is how they should have been put in (before pressing them into the slider).

Must have been like that for a while before leaking?.

View attachment 496375

View attachment 496376

I wonder if they fitted by someone who didn't have clue, or who used twisted logic? As in: If the forks are upside down then the seals should be reversed.

 

[dobbslc]

Was the frame nickel plated on this one?

I didn't know they did a nickel plated frame, is it real plating?

 

[Danez]

Did some 'MOT welding' on the jag. set myself a day to start and finish so glad i did it all in time. Not my finest work but should get me through an MOT. Would have been better to remove the plate connecting the subframe to the body first but those threads are just completely gone
might do it proper someday..

Wasn't taking any chances with the fuel tank

Lovely job to do in 24° weather!

 

[droopsnoot]

Finally had another go at fixing the constantly dribbling flush valve in the toilet just now. Last time I tried to remove it (it's a Siamp bayonet-fit valve) the fitting in the bottom of the cistern was starting to turn so, fearing escalation, I gave up and put it back together. This time it just came undone, so I've no idea what's changed. The rubber washer had no visible limescale or anything, but it was covered in a lot of black "stuff" that got all over the sink and my hands, but I've washed it all off. There's a slight hint of being a bit of an uneven surface on the washer, so I've put it back in the other way up so it's using the other surface to mate on. I've also made a note of the dimensions so if it's not fixed the problem, I can buy a washer in advance of trying again.

Let's hope it fixes the issue as I've just had a water bill and it's gone up quite a bit, probably mainly the change from this thing sometimes dribbling to it virtually always doing so.

 

[RichardM]

I didn't know they did a nickel plated frame, is it real plating?

Not as std, owner may have had it done, which is why I asked if it was nickel plated, if it is paint I may get xt done like it next time.

 

[Mick Annick]

The rubber washer had no visible limescale or anything, but it was covered in a lot of black "stuff" that got all over the sink and my hands, but I've washed it all off. There's a slight hint of being a bit of an uneven surface on the washer, so I've put it back in the other way up so it's using the other surface to mate on. I've also made a note of the dimensions so if it's not fixed the problem, I can buy a washer in advance of trying again.

I had the same black stuff last time I did mine - also a SIAMP bayonet type - it was the seal breaking down.