Wildefalcon
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- 2,474
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- Gloucestershire, England
Strategic jumping up and down required.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
MattF
Forum Supporter
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- 17,394
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- South Yorkshire
That's what I was thinking too.
sako243
Member
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- 3,955
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- My mansion in Wales
What's more impressive is I didn't reverse in to it broadside, the gate was open (into the wood to the right) and I was reversing out. Stabiliser leg hit the end of the gate end on.Just reverse into it from the other side - sorted
Will get the wifey to take the horse out for a ride or shut her down in the little paddock we have and then I'll take if off and gently push down with the back actor and see if I can straighten it out. Annoying as it was a perfectly straight gate.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,382
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- cornwall, united kingdom
customers car needed some welding. so as this is supposed to be a welding site i thought id show it here
(copy and paste from the owners club forum)
primed and painted. just some dinitrol on the sills and wheel arches and the weld repairs are done.
found a interesting feature of the r3 tanks. never noticed it before. kinda a 1 time use thing though...
Pete.
Member
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- 14,742
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- Kent, UK
Patched a mower deck today. It's basically sound but had some rot at the grass chute and on the front of the lip. i made the patches much bigger than the holes coz mower decks are prone to blowing through. It wasn't work I had intended to do but I had to remove the deck to change the shaft bearings so it was a good opportunity. A good plastering of black paint and it's now ready to go back on.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,169
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Note how I only bothered to remove the sanding dust from the immediate area to be painted.
I don't have the right thinners for my clearcoat so that's it for tonight, will properly clean everything before attempting to finish it and blend in with fade out thinner.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,169
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Photo under floods at the 24hr petrol station.
The colour coat covered better than expected on the other repair areas (ran out of light to finish them today), and I am very happy with how the first section came out.
Today I made a start on the SLK interior, it was in pretty bad shape and when stripped out, almost every panel in the dash/console was missing tabs with cracks in it or entire sections.
The plastic panels are NLA and all the replacement ones for sale are used and nearly 30 years old so are as fragile as these, plus people ask a lot of money for the brittle old parts if by some miracle they havent lost all their tabs and lugs.
I saw a ad for a centre console with only 4 broken off tabs for 150 quid today... So out came the bumper stapler
Sunk the staples in below the surface but not so deep it showed on the outside and also in the second plane to reinforce the edges with different pattern staples used. Then trimmed with a cutoff wheel on the dremmel.
Clock surround was bad too, it was missing whole lumps but I managed to find a donor broken in a different place to cut the pieces out of.
With all the staples to help strength I pasted over them flush with plastic filler rod and the "plastic repair iron" which is a soldering iron with a flat triangle tip on it that comes in a kit with filler rods. Did this on the armrest too.
Finally ready for filler and paint after a fettle with a sander and a attempt to texture with a craft knife heated cherry red then removal of the beauty rings. This wasnt great so I'll redo.
Now waiting for some filler stopper work to dry to hide the rest of the imperfections & textured paint to refinish it so it doesnt have shiny smooth repair areas when its rubbed back.
Thats the clock surround and armrest console done, just the glovebox, glovebox lid, centre console, and the kick panels to do now.
Almost tempted to scan them and print replacements in pa-cf...
Also of note, (plastic) welding content
The plastic panels are NLA and all the replacement ones for sale are used and nearly 30 years old so are as fragile as these, plus people ask a lot of money for the brittle old parts if by some miracle they havent lost all their tabs and lugs.
I saw a ad for a centre console with only 4 broken off tabs for 150 quid today... So out came the bumper stapler
Sunk the staples in below the surface but not so deep it showed on the outside and also in the second plane to reinforce the edges with different pattern staples used. Then trimmed with a cutoff wheel on the dremmel.
Clock surround was bad too, it was missing whole lumps but I managed to find a donor broken in a different place to cut the pieces out of.
With all the staples to help strength I pasted over them flush with plastic filler rod and the "plastic repair iron" which is a soldering iron with a flat triangle tip on it that comes in a kit with filler rods. Did this on the armrest too.
Finally ready for filler and paint after a fettle with a sander and a attempt to texture with a craft knife heated cherry red then removal of the beauty rings. This wasnt great so I'll redo.
Now waiting for some filler stopper work to dry to hide the rest of the imperfections & textured paint to refinish it so it doesnt have shiny smooth repair areas when its rubbed back.
Thats the clock surround and armrest console done, just the glovebox, glovebox lid, centre console, and the kick panels to do now.
Almost tempted to scan them and print replacements in pa-cf...
Also of note, (plastic) welding content
magnet
Member
- Messages
- 1,400
Fixed a broken casting on my old gem air rifle 
This was made of a dubious cast material so welding was not an option so i made a plate and epoxied it across the broken casting.
It worked out well i cleaned everything thoroughly with meths and emery cloth.
Its now back together and the stock is rock solid
Good for another hundred years
This was made of a dubious cast material so welding was not an option so i made a plate and epoxied it across the broken casting.
It worked out well i cleaned everything thoroughly with meths and emery cloth.
Its now back together and the stock is rock solid
Good for another hundred years
sako243
Member
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- 3,955
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
Starter on a 6t dumper replaced and now starts nicely.
Diagnosed but not fixed, dozer on another site had a bad starter as well.
Waiting to hear back from the company whether they can fix it in the short term and when a new one will be available.
Diagnosed but not fixed, dozer on another site had a bad starter as well.
Waiting to hear back from the company whether they can fix it in the short term and when a new one will be available.
Guineafowl
Member
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- 1,189
- Location
- Nairn
Here’s a good one, from the Phantom Tinkerer.
Kawasaki strimmer, very hard to pull over. The spring holding the centrifugal clutch shoes had broken, so the crank was effectively locked to the rest of the drivetrain, hence the difficulty in starting.
But… the chewed screws and stripped threads suggested someone had been in there. And the second piece of spring was missing.
Conclusion: someone had opened up the clutch, seen the fault, carefully removed the broken spring bit, and closed it all up again. Talk about sweeping dirt under the carpet, for the sake of £4 for a new spring.
Kawasaki strimmer, very hard to pull over. The spring holding the centrifugal clutch shoes had broken, so the crank was effectively locked to the rest of the drivetrain, hence the difficulty in starting.
But… the chewed screws and stripped threads suggested someone had been in there. And the second piece of spring was missing.
Conclusion: someone had opened up the clutch, seen the fault, carefully removed the broken spring bit, and closed it all up again. Talk about sweeping dirt under the carpet, for the sake of £4 for a new spring.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
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- 3,444
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Not today, but this week the wife Sandero had 2 new front springs and drop links, youngest daughters Mazda 3 had a NS lower suspension arm, track rod ends and front pads, just rear discs, pads and front drop links to go
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- 6,270
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- Manchester UK
Very nicely done that, a simple repair that actually works and doesn't detract. I would have made a meal of the job getting my rotary table out and allsorts!
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 12,875
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- Hertfordshire UK
Fixed two torches that had a combination of flat batteries and dirty contacts and the boys spare Mazda key fob that also had a flat battery.
Half an hour of peace on my own doing a few easy fixes, does it get any better than that?
Half an hour of peace on my own doing a few easy fixes, does it get any better than that?
magnet
Member
- Messages
- 1,400
Coming from you, a compliment indeed. Thank you.
Stueeee
Old git
- Messages
- 1,076
- Location
- N W Kent
This one is actually 'today I partially fixed'. Some time ago my partner Sue, bought a vintage trike with the intention that I convert it to electric for her. The first issue I could see was the lack of any rear end braking; in fact there was no sign of there ever having been anything but the front wheel brake fitted. So I bought a cable operated disc brake setup from ebay and got to work. Sue bought the trike for minimal money as the 'free wheel' -the axle doesn't have a differential fitted, so like most trikes, only one rear wheel actually drives- kept coming loose. I could see that the original thread had been (badly) recut with a Right Hand thread; from the side and rotation it was obvious that the thread was originally left hand. Stripped the axle, put it in a lathe drilled and tapped the axle end LH M8 and screwed in a length of LH studding with a gob of high strength retainer to replicate the original studded axle end.
The other end with a RH thread looked pretty carp, so I redid that at the same time.
The axle bearings were knackered, thankfully they are standard metric rubber shielded ball races that I could just press into the Plummer Block type housings. In order to mount the disc to the axle I needed to turn up a hub from a lump of 70 something MM diameter Ali stock, it was a pleasure to do this bit of work in my DSG as a fair length of round just fitted up into the chuck and spindle bore, thereby drastically reducing wastage as I could just part off the finished job once I had turned, drilled and bored it to finish size. Put the hub into the mill to pitch out the six M5 tapped holes on the rotary table.
Fitted all the bits to the trike, and cobbled up a suitable mounting for the brake caliper. The next job on this is to install (I hope) a mid mount motor kit; the bottom bracket looks quite small by bicycle standards so I might need to do some more engineering yet if a 'standard' conversion kit won't fit/work on the trike. Anyway, I've just parked this particular job for a bit as the trike was taking up a bay in my garage which I need to use for some fabrication work over the next few weeks.
The other end with a RH thread looked pretty carp, so I redid that at the same time.
The axle bearings were knackered, thankfully they are standard metric rubber shielded ball races that I could just press into the Plummer Block type housings. In order to mount the disc to the axle I needed to turn up a hub from a lump of 70 something MM diameter Ali stock, it was a pleasure to do this bit of work in my DSG as a fair length of round just fitted up into the chuck and spindle bore, thereby drastically reducing wastage as I could just part off the finished job once I had turned, drilled and bored it to finish size. Put the hub into the mill to pitch out the six M5 tapped holes on the rotary table.
Fitted all the bits to the trike, and cobbled up a suitable mounting for the brake caliper. The next job on this is to install (I hope) a mid mount motor kit; the bottom bracket looks quite small by bicycle standards so I might need to do some more engineering yet if a 'standard' conversion kit won't fit/work on the trike. Anyway, I've just parked this particular job for a bit as the trike was taking up a bay in my garage which I need to use for some fabrication work over the next few weeks.
Nice work. Has she ridden a trike before?
If not you might want to suggest she has a go and gets used to it at slower speeds before you fit the motor as its a lot harder than it looks. Although you don't have the balance problem of a normal bike, the handling is totally different and they tend to want to follow the road camber, constantly trying to drag you into the kerb or road edge. And then try to tip you off when you corner, if your a bit too quick.
It's a bit like riding a motorbike with sidecar. A completely different animal to a bike on its own.
