What are you machining?

[Brad93]

Brilliant just been having a look. Loads of proper videos
I see you doing work on a js540. Mine will operate one way but then refuses to self feed the other. Turning the lever by hand doesn't work either but sometimes it does if you catch it right. Any ideas?

Either the hydraulic system needs looking at or you've not depressed the knock off pad on the right hand side and the table is going back to park position.

Or the table has been lifted at some point in its life and bent the hydraulic rams.

 

[fizzy]

Either the hydraulic system needs looking at or you've not depressed the knock off pad on the right hand side and the table is going back to park position.

Or the table has been lifted at some point in its life and bent the hydraulic rams.

I think it's down to that knock off pad. How is it supposed to work? Basically I can initiate the action manually but it won't repeate. Keeps resetting itself.

 

[Brad93]

I think it's down to that knock off pad. How is it supposed to work? Basically I can initiate the action manually but it won't repeate. Keeps resetting itself.

Off the top of my head i can't remember, mine currently is waiting for me to redo the electronics and move them into a external
enclosure

 

[Woody.v8]

More to the stockcars link bars

 

[minimutly]

You got a contract or what?

 

[Guineafowl]

Never thought I’d get a 5ft Meddings pillar drill column on the little Boxford!

The three jaw chuck kept dropping it in slightly hair-raising fashion, so ended up bolting the base flange to a face plate and clocking in.

Nothing fancy, just a run down with the grinder wire wheel and emery cloth to tidy up. Mainly rust and hardened grease. Finished up with a coat of machine wax, which is less sticky.

 

[Brad93]

Never thought I’d get a 5ft Meddings pillar drill column on the little Boxford!

The three jaw chuck kept dropping it in slightly hair-raising fashion, so ended up bolting the base flange to a face plate and clocking in.

Nothing fancy, just a run down with the grinder wire wheel and emery cloth to tidy up. Mainly rust and hardened grease. Finished up with a coat of machine wax, which is less sticky.

View attachment 478508

That's called walking, the part is walking out of the chuck.

Either you haven't got the part perfectly centred in the steady or the steady is not true with the axis of rotation.

 

[Guineafowl]

That's called walking, the part is walking out of the chuck.

Either you haven't got the part perfectly centred in the steady or the steady is not true with the axis of rotation.

Yes, exactly what was happening. It was trying to be a universal joint, and very hard to set up single-handed. Very little jaw contact.

Thought for a bit, and realised that a perfect custom chuck (base flange) was lying on the bench looking at me.

 

[Rrobson]

@Guineafowl nice little boxford!

 

[E T]

I found 3 small bearings in a drawer today which I forgot I had (the bearings, not the drawer).
Then I had a bit of a brainwave and decided to use them for ball bearing fingers for the South Bend steady rest.
So I cut of some bits of 12x50 flat bar and milled them square and to size.
Nice sliding fit in the steady and no wiggle.
Tomorrow I will drill some holes, mill some slots and turn some pins.

 

[My Old Landy]

I found 3 small bearings in a drawer today which I forgot I had (the bearings, not the drawer).
Then I had a bit of a brainwave and decided to use them for ball bearing fingers for the South Bend steady rest.
So I cut of some bits of 12x50 flat bar and milled them square and to size.
Nice sliding fit in the steady and no wiggle.
Tomorrow I will drill some holes, mill some slots and turn some pins.View attachment 480698View attachment 480699View attachment 480700View attachment 480701

Looks like a cracking job

 

[Brad93]

Something i've not had to do before.

Machine a worn out flange for a taper lock. 1108-28.

Went fine, if working to the fenner document, diameter at the large end should be 38.2-38.28mm.

I made this 38.2 but it still sits somewhat proud of the flange.

Won't matter for this application however but something i'd like to clarify for future use.

 

[m_c]

Something i've not had to do before.

Machine a worn out flange for a taper lock. 1108-28.

Went fine, if working to the fenner document, diameter at the large end should be 38.2-38.28mm.

I made this 38.2 but it still sits somewhat proud of the flange.

Won't matter for this application however but something i'd like to clarify for future use.

View attachment 480726 View attachment 480728 View attachment 480729

I have seen taperlock bushes sit proud in the past, and I always just put it down to tolerance issues.
They still work, so I've never really looked into why.

However, this did remind me of a post by the late John Stevenson, which you might like if you find yourself needing to regularly machine hubs for taper locks - https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/51004-tapered-bushing

 

[Brad93]

I have seen taperlock bushes sit proud in the past, and I always just put it down to tolerance issues.
They still work, so I've never really looked into why.

However, this did remind me of a post by the late John Stevenson, which you might like if you find yourself needing to regularly machine hubs for taper locks - https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/51004-tapered-bushing

Yes I'd already found Johns post while trying to see if i could find the hole locations, then i found this fenner document shared on this forum by https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/members/spark-plug.18080/

 

[Munkul]

Something i've not had to do before.

Machine a worn out flange for a taper lock. 1108-28.

Went fine, if working to the fenner document, diameter at the large end should be 38.2-38.28mm.

I made this 38.2 but it still sits somewhat proud of the flange.

Won't matter for this application however but something i'd like to clarify for future use.

View attachment 480726 View attachment 480728 View attachment 480729

It depends on the shaft diameter tolerance as well...

 

[Brad93]

It depends on the shaft diameter tolerance as well...

Shaft was actually slightly undersize.

I've set the machine back up today and it's working perfectly so we will see how it works long term, only five minutes round the corner so nice and easy to fix if it doesn't work out

 

[Hood]

Seeing as how I got the crash bars re-powder coated I thought I should make new sliders for them.

 

[E T]

Finished the ball bearing fingers for the steady today.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.

 

[Brad93]

Finished the ball bearing fingers for the steady today.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.View attachment 481022View attachment 481023View attachment 481024

for 90% of stuff rollers works well

sometimes you can't beat the dampening effect of a solid finger though. Be it cast, bronze or plastic.

Just gotta watch it doesn't marr/burnish the finish on parts though.

 

[E T]

Next little project: Convert this old minilathe tailstock to a tailstock for the rotary table.

Some preliminary rough measurements how much I have to mill of the base to get it on centre height.