- Thread starter Kram
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Guineafowl
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Never thought I’d get a 5ft Meddings pillar drill column on the little Boxford!
The three jaw chuck kept dropping it in slightly hair-raising fashion, so ended up bolting the base flange to a face plate and clocking in.
Nothing fancy, just a run down with the grinder wire wheel and emery cloth to tidy up. Mainly rust and hardened grease. Finished up with a coat of machine wax, which is less sticky.
The three jaw chuck kept dropping it in slightly hair-raising fashion, so ended up bolting the base flange to a face plate and clocking in.
Nothing fancy, just a run down with the grinder wire wheel and emery cloth to tidy up. Mainly rust and hardened grease. Finished up with a coat of machine wax, which is less sticky.
Guineafowl
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Yes, exactly what was happening. It was trying to be a universal joint, and very hard to set up single-handed. Very little jaw contact.
Thought for a bit, and realised that a perfect custom chuck (base flange) was lying on the bench looking at me.
@Guineafowl nice little boxford!
E T
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I found 3 small bearings in a drawer today which I forgot I had (the bearings, not the drawer).
Then I had a bit of a brainwave and decided to use them for ball bearing fingers for the South Bend steady rest.
So I cut of some bits of 12x50 flat bar and milled them square and to size.
Nice sliding fit in the steady and no wiggle.
Tomorrow I will drill some holes, mill some slots and turn some pins.
Then I had a bit of a brainwave and decided to use them for ball bearing fingers for the South Bend steady rest.
So I cut of some bits of 12x50 flat bar and milled them square and to size.
Nice sliding fit in the steady and no wiggle.
Tomorrow I will drill some holes, mill some slots and turn some pins.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I have seen taperlock bushes sit proud in the past, and I always just put it down to tolerance issues.
They still work, so I've never really looked into why.
However, this did remind me of a post by the late John Stevenson, which you might like if you find yourself needing to regularly machine hubs for taper locks - https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/51004-tapered-bushing
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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It depends on the shaft diameter tolerance as well...
E T
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- Netherlands
Finished the ball bearing fingers for the steady today.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.
E T
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That turned out quite alright .
Milled just over 4mm of the base and made a T- nut so I could use the original clamping lever to clamp it to the mill table.
It's still a smidge high, but with a 0.15mm feeler gauge under the rear of the base the test bar was dead on parallel.
Milled just over 4mm of the base and made a T- nut so I could use the original clamping lever to clamp it to the mill table.
It's still a smidge high, but with a 0.15mm feeler gauge under the rear of the base the test bar was dead on parallel.
galooph
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I've got a Sieg C6 lathe, and the compound on it is not particularly rigid! I'd never had success parting off, and had often thought about making a Gibraltar style toolpost to improve the rigidity. I'd spotted that Arc Euro stocked a milling table that looked like it might save some work, and after some measuring, I thought that I could get away with a larger wedge toolpost on top.
I was pleasantly surprised at how well the counterbore worked in my drill press! I went with shallow head socket screws to minimise the depth I had to cut.
As a first test, I tried parting off some aluminium bar, and successfully cut some nice thin slivers - progress!
The old compound can soon be swapped back, if I ever need it.
I was pleasantly surprised at how well the counterbore worked in my drill press! I went with shallow head socket screws to minimise the depth I had to cut.
As a first test, I tried parting off some aluminium bar, and successfully cut some nice thin slivers - progress!
The old compound can soon be swapped back, if I ever need it.
Kram
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I have been tidying the shed and now have access to lathe.
We have a grabber thing, pole with handle one end and jaws on the other, it needed a repair, so I set about making a new tube holder for it out of 22mm aluminium.
It has a 1/2" slot for the trigger handle. It was a challlenge to work out how to hold it. Using a ER40 chuck in a MT2 adaptor, in a 25mm bore toolpost holder, sticks out a little bit!
I didnt have enough cross slide travel so had to move the toolpost right on the edge with a G clamp to help secure it.
Went better than expected !
We have a grabber thing, pole with handle one end and jaws on the other, it needed a repair, so I set about making a new tube holder for it out of 22mm aluminium.
It has a 1/2" slot for the trigger handle. It was a challlenge to work out how to hold it. Using a ER40 chuck in a MT2 adaptor, in a 25mm bore toolpost holder, sticks out a little bit!
I didnt have enough cross slide travel so had to move the toolpost right on the edge with a G clamp to help secure it.
Went better than expected !
