Do you have a link for the 6013 adhesive, I tried to look up the spec but couldn't find it.
I used that type of chinesium glue, works fine: AliexpressDo you have a link for the 6013 adhesive, I tried to look up the spec but couldn't find it.
Thanks @Pete.Sorry Richard, it was late last night. It's Araldite 2013 not 6013.
how thick was the steel shim? And how much steel had to be scraped off. A steel wedge works well on cast iron.Hmmm, when I did this on my Town Woodhouse I glued some shim steel to the back of the gib then scraped the front in - did I do it wrong?
Hmmm, when I did this on my Town Woodhouse I glued some shim steel to the back of the gib then scraped the front in - did I do it wrong?
I might end up splitting mine for scrap. May be better than yoursGood to know. On my TV2 milling machine one of the gibs is at maximum adjustment. I will need to shim it.
Yes, no oilways needed in my shim, the gib just sits there, and I'll never wear it out, or the face it sits against, so horses for courses I think.Nope, the gib doesn't move so a shim behind it won't hurt. I had two reasons to do it this way, well 3 really.
1. I wanted to put turcite on the gib for its low friction low wear properties
2. The gib is oiled from outside via a hole drilled through it so a shim would block that off
3. Doing a full rebuild, you might as well do it the best way that you can.
I forget, but I had to some straightening, and then selected the right shimsteel to get it where it needed to be.how thick was the steel shim? And how much steel had to be scraped off. A steel wedge works well on cast iron.
The adjustable nut is a nice ideaToday is fit the spindle day but first I have to install the Y axis nut and replace an oiling pipe that was destroyed during diassembly. This hole is where the ball oiler goes for oiling the idler gear bearing:
View attachment 429146
And there was a copper tube spanning these two holes to deliver that oil, but it didn't survive disassembly
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I have some plastic air line which is a nice snug fit so I cut a bit off the reel and used that instead of the copper pipe
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Now on to installing the nut carrier that connects the slide to the scew and nut. The nut and screw were already installed and the carrier slide onto the nut like this:
View attachment 429150
It's bolted from both above and below (which was fun discovering when I was stripping it down) as well as pinned with taper pins and the underneath bolts and pins are impossible to get at with tools so I removed the screw and nut to make it easy
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Nut carrier all fitted in place with the slide all the way back
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After that it was just a case of plugging the nut into the hold from below (it's not secured just a good slip fit), sliding the slide forwards unti the end of the screw engages in the drive then bolting the flange on.
Incidentally, here's the nut on the screw. It has a pair of pinch bolts and a central jack bolt so that you can adjust the backlash very closely.
View attachment 429153