- Thread starter slim_boy_fat
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You're meant to around the corners!thread revival....
yesterday i broke
✂️ oops
30 seconds · Clipped by RX8Jim · Original video "Perranporth trackday 15102023 session3" by RX8Jimyoutube.com
my race car.....
droopsnoot
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The brake pipe at the back of my car, while putting the trailing arm back in after replacing the bush. It's a pain in the neck, and if it drops all the fluid out overnight it's a real pain to bleed it all.
MattF
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Red'n'Black
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Last time I had to abandon a brake job half way through and wait for new parts to arrive, this trick worked.
Remove master cylinder cap.
Stretch cling film over opening.
Re-fit cap, making sure the film doesn't tear or wrinkle.
I tied a finger off a latex glove over the end of the pipe as well, just in case, but it didn't leak a drop.
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I did that to a rust pinhole in the diff housing as a temporary fix, it was still there when I sold the car.
droopsnoot
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Thanks for the thoughts, by the time I posted on here I'd already left the car for the night. I thought I'd got away with it as there wasn't a massive amount of fluid in the tub this morning, but after bleeding the one I'd disturbed there's still no pedal pressure, so I expect the next thing is to bleed the master cylinder and then try again - I ran out of fluid this afternoon after marshalling all the end-of-bottle bit I had. The back end of the pipe has been looking a little rusty for a few years, so I expect it was just too fragile to be moved around. It's all back together now, with a new section of pipe and I got to try out the on-car pipe flaring tool that I had from @JOEPRO back in March - I don't recall why I bought it, but I expect it was for this sort of situation. I took the opportunity to fix a few other things that I couldn't have done while keeping the brake line in tact.
redlig
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Not a good idea to use dregs long term as it's hydroscopic and will possibly give problems .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Boil it ( out side ) to remove the water and filter it through several layers of lint free make-up remover pads , but it's much safer to have a new can all of the same material rather than a mixture of many different ones with different characteristics .
I hark back tothe time when we had proper rubber seals and the new neoprene fluid killed the rubber ones .
Arragh , I got sick ( lumbered with the change over programme ) of changing bloody army Landrover brake seals . I helped when eventually we got a five gallon 35 psi pressure bleeder in the workshop .
I hark back tothe time when we had proper rubber seals and the new neoprene fluid killed the rubber ones .
Arragh , I got sick ( lumbered with the change over programme ) of changing bloody army Landrover brake seals . I helped when eventually we got a five gallon 35 psi pressure bleeder in the workshop .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I cut a solid U shaped round bar door handle up to get a bit of round aluminium bar stock . it cut well on the bi-metallic band saw, popped it in the lathe noticed it was not quite as straight along the length ( 95 mm ) as I'd hoped . Never mind I can turn it round for what I want .
I faced off the end and put a brand new centre point drill in the tailstock chuck , set it to be almost ready to drill , tightened the tail stock , set the lathe going at about 500 rpm slowly advance the drill into the aluminium gavre it a squirt of WD40 eased in in about five mm when " Ping" grrrundle grind etc etc. the drill tip broke in the stock . Stopped the lathe looked at the center drill , it had shattered right fron the tip of the drill point to about 12 mm along the drill body .
This is the second center drill I've ever broken but it wasn't like this one . The first was in a hot forged high tensile steel bolt head .. full of stresses ,
I faced off the end and put a brand new centre point drill in the tailstock chuck , set it to be almost ready to drill , tightened the tail stock , set the lathe going at about 500 rpm slowly advance the drill into the aluminium gavre it a squirt of WD40 eased in in about five mm when " Ping" grrrundle grind etc etc. the drill tip broke in the stock . Stopped the lathe looked at the center drill , it had shattered right fron the tip of the drill point to about 12 mm along the drill body .
This is the second center drill I've ever broken but it wasn't like this one . The first was in a hot forged high tensile steel bolt head .. full of stresses ,
Why wd40? Better off dry imho, in out in out...
droopsnoot
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Bought some new brake fluid yesterday (first use of my Halfords Trade Card) and bled the master cylinder and opposite corner to the broken pipe, and I have a brake pedal again. Remains to be seen whether it's good enough - I hadn't driven the car since Saturday so I can't really say whether it's the same as before, slightly worse or slightly better. I may call the main agent and see if they do a decent price on a brake fluid change, or I have been offered the loan of a pressurised brake fluid filler thing (like a garden spray, I guess one up from the ones that fix onto a spare tyre) if the ABS unit needs to be cycled.
(In isolation this isn't a "what I broke today", just an update of the thing I broke the other day, further up the thread).
(In isolation this isn't a "what I broke today", just an update of the thing I broke the other day, further up the thread).
JMS1972
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The pump up pressure bleeders are a joy to use. I was looking for cars to do a fluid change on after I got mine
JMS1972
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It did wear off quite quicklyAre you mad woman?
but compared to pedal up, pedal down.... So much easier
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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You have to ask?Are you mad woman?
