The pricing was fair. I should have taken a before photo. It looked rough and the plinth was completely rusted away. But you are right, there are lots of people who polish these things up and try to sell for crazy prices. I'm just going to chuck tools in it.
- Thread starter qwakers
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indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
I've had a clunk from the front of my Jeep GC, finally tracked it down to the bolts on the bottom arms
I'm assuming a previous owner had them replaced and they weren't tightened up properly
You can't see the bolt heads without taking the sump bash plate off, and no, the holes haven't worn oval, it's how the camber angle is adjusted
I'm assuming a previous owner had them replaced and they weren't tightened up properly
You can't see the bolt heads without taking the sump bash plate off, and no, the holes haven't worn oval, it's how the camber angle is adjusted
JOEPRO
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Really nice job you did there!
What type of sand blasting setup do you use? And what feeds the air supply?
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Cheap blastpot with a few mods.
grit valves for cheap pots
using ball valves to meter the grit is a bit hit and miss and prone to regular blockages :(namely because of its design and iregular grit size it only takes one larger particle to end up in the orifice and everything stops . even the slightest of moisture kills it off . making a flat sand valve...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Air supply is just a 3hp piston compressor which isn't anywhere near enough but will work if I give it enough time.
I've another 3hp compressor that is giving bother, but even with both working there isn't enough air to keep it going at 90psi but it is a lot better.
The media valve has transformed the blast pot from a total pain with blockages and hopeless grit adjustment to a very reliable tool.
RaceDiagnostics
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- Broughty Ferry
I've had a small coolant leak (so far no need to top up) at the front of the engine. The coolant has been getting splattered all over and creating a real mess. I wasn't able to track the leak down as it has always been dry by the time I park up and look. I tried nipping up the hose clips but no success, so bought this cheap pressure tester.
Of course, none of the caps fitted properly so over to the lathe to take off a mm from this cap.
Once fitted and pressurised....
....the leak appeared on the top hose.
Tightened up a bit more and the leak stopped, I'll do a clean up and test drive later
Of course, none of the caps fitted properly so over to the lathe to take off a mm from this cap.
Once fitted and pressurised....
....the leak appeared on the top hose.
Tightened up a bit more and the leak stopped, I'll do a clean up and test drive later
finyuk2005
Member
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- 783
i bought one of those kits for testing marine charge coolers, great value for money!I've had a small coolant leak (so far no need to top up) at the front of the engine. The coolant has been getting splattered all over and creating a real mess. I wasn't able to track the leak down as it has always been dry by the time I park up and look. I tried nipping up the hose clips but no success, so bought this cheap pressure tester.
Of course, none of the caps fitted properly so over to the lathe to take off a mm from this cap.
Once fitted and pressurised....
....the leak appeared on the top hose.
Tightened up a bit more and the leak stopped, I'll do a clean up and test drive later
i will need to remember this trick for tracking down leaks, its a good one!
roblane65
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- Newcastle UK
Not today but yesterday evening I fixed the rear wash/wipe on the range rover .
stupidist design in the world that silly plastic inlet elbow feeds the water through the center of the wiper spindle and it leaks
luckily I'd been donated a non leaking motor quite a while back but the teeth were gone on the cog , so a bit of mixing and matching went on
I also needed to swap the spindle out of the leaking motor as the plastic nipple that feeds the water into the arm cover / water jets had been snapped of ( see pic below ) probably by some plum changing the wiper arm .
you can see the rear spindle is missing a bit !
all back in and working correctly although I've left the cover of for now just be sure it's not leaking and there will be a modification at a later ( a small brass elbow threaded into the spindle ) to make sure it never leaks .
stupidist design in the world that silly plastic inlet elbow feeds the water through the center of the wiper spindle and it leaks
luckily I'd been donated a non leaking motor quite a while back but the teeth were gone on the cog , so a bit of mixing and matching went on
I also needed to swap the spindle out of the leaking motor as the plastic nipple that feeds the water into the arm cover / water jets had been snapped of ( see pic below ) probably by some plum changing the wiper arm .
you can see the rear spindle is missing a bit !
all back in and working correctly although I've left the cover of for now just be sure it's not leaking and there will be a modification at a later ( a small brass elbow threaded into the spindle ) to make sure it never leaks .
selectedgrub
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OJCar
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Exactly the same "Born to Leak" rear wiper motors are used on many VAG vehicles,Not today but yesterday evening I fixed the rear wash/wipe on the range rover .
stupidist design in the world that silly plastic inlet elbow feeds the water through the center of the wiper spindle and it leaks
luckily I'd been donated a non leaking motor quite a while back but the teeth were gone on the cog , so a bit of mixing and matching went on
I also needed to swap the spindle out of the leaking motor as the plastic nipple that feeds the water into the arm cover / water jets had been snapped of ( see pic below ) probably by some plum changing the wiper arm .
you can see the rear spindle is missing a bit !
all back in and working correctly although I've left the cover of for now just be sure it's not leaking and there will be a modification at a later ( a small brass elbow threaded into the spindle ) to make sure it never leaks .
so there must be a "Designed by Accountants" industry standard somewhere.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
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This came my way, I knew it had a few issues.
Cleaning the old crud out, showed a few things to address.
It leaked and the spout was blocked.
I had to unsolder the top and spout..
It now is used as a cutting oil oil can
This came my way, I knew it had a few issues.
Cleaning the old crud out, showed a few things to address.
It leaked and the spout was blocked.
I had to unsolder the top and spout..
It now is used as a cutting oil oil can
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
I got this tired Tilley Wall lamp, from a member on here.
It needed a lot of attention.
This was a pain. The seals had gone sticky, the different metals had fused together.
Even through this could be removed it could not be striped, with out some bad words.
It started to come together when the brass cleaned up.
The spares duly arrived.
This can be a pain to dismantle. But this one was sweet, new mantle is to be fitted.
Again OE mantles will be used.
Assembled.
New control valve fitted, the knob is missing, as I need a new one.
Now producing light, not clear here. But I was not going to fire it up in the workshop.
90% working.
New control knob.
Pump needs some attention, I did get it into bits. But I fear the pitting is to bad.
RaceDiagnostics
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- Broughty Ferry
Well it turned out that I didn't fix the leak, after a test drive there were more white coolant splatters.
I presurised the system again and found this on the underside of the water pump.
It was wet. The pump is just over 2 years old and only has 2000 miles on it. Just outside the warranty period of Autodoc. It's a febi unit, I found a warranty page on their web site saying 3 years so made a claim there. Let's see were that gets me.
I presurised the system again and found this on the underside of the water pump.
It was wet. The pump is just over 2 years old and only has 2000 miles on it. Just outside the warranty period of Autodoc. It's a febi unit, I found a warranty page on their web site saying 3 years so made a claim there. Let's see were that gets me.
roblane65
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- Newcastle UK
Not so sure about VAG but I'm told many BM's and mini's after all the car is of the era when Bmw were in charge at LR .Exactly the same "Born to Leak" rear wiper motors are used on many VAG vehicles,
so there must be a "Designed by Accountants" industry standard somewhere.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Today I fixed that which I broke a couple of days ago.
The moving jaw from a nice tap wrench.
Fortunately it was surface hardened, so I was able to drill and tap.
Next job was to make a replacement stud. I found a nice piece of 1/4" Stubbs silver steel and experience the joy of cutting my first lefthand thread.
Loctited in place to complete the job.
The moving jaw from a nice tap wrench.
Fortunately it was surface hardened, so I was able to drill and tap.
Next job was to make a replacement stud. I found a nice piece of 1/4" Stubbs silver steel and experience the joy of cutting my first lefthand thread.
Loctited in place to complete the job.
I got to play Welder for work today. A Unimog I was asked to service and do a few bits on - the Airbox (which feeds the engine and the on-board compressor) had the bottom of the centre cylinder rotted out, & the mounting bracket on the bulkhead side was rotten, with a hole in the cylinder base under the bracket.
So, I cut out a biggish piece of the cylinder and the rotted base bits, and repaired them, finished off with a slap of some black iron fence paint I had left.
Concourse it ain't, but it'll do the job.
So, I cut out a biggish piece of the cylinder and the rotted base bits, and repaired them, finished off with a slap of some black iron fence paint I had left.
Concourse it ain't, but it'll do the job.
Made a connection, for a simple testbench to test small hydraulic cilinders.
Crimping of the aluminium sleeve done with simple pliers for electric terminals, anyone else ever tried this?
Edit: id of the hose is 3.4mm and the hose is rated to 200bar, It will be inside a protective cover at all times when pressurized of course.
Last edited:
Not tried it myself, but if the crimp doesn't leak & holds pressure in use - then
JOEPRO
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My Milwaukee M18 high torque impact has been with me for years and finally started to give some trouble a couple of weeks back.
I thought it was a lack of grease in the hammer mech and took it all apart for a look see. Turns out there was a bad bearing at the very rear of the motor housing. Which is available on ebay new genuine and with the bearing pre installed.
Got it in the post today. Then discovered the old bearing was properly seized in place. So I had to use a die grinder to cut a groove and pop out the old ball bearings then a
That allowed me to grip the remaining part tight in my vice and punch the centre shaft out.
Got the old bearing remains off and not a scratch on the motor shaft and plastic fan.
All back together and working great again.
I thought it was a lack of grease in the hammer mech and took it all apart for a look see. Turns out there was a bad bearing at the very rear of the motor housing. Which is available on ebay new genuine and with the bearing pre installed.
Got it in the post today. Then discovered the old bearing was properly seized in place. So I had to use a die grinder to cut a groove and pop out the old ball bearings then a
That allowed me to grip the remaining part tight in my vice and punch the centre shaft out.
Got the old bearing remains off and not a scratch on the motor shaft and plastic fan.
All back together and working great again.
Happy you got it fixed.
It hurts a bit you clamp the shaft like that, have you no feelings?
