What oil. Colchester master

[fizzy]

I don't think oil is as critical as people think.
For my huge Holbrook H20 it says to use Shell Talpa 30. For the 1500rpm version it says to use Tellus 29. The Talpa 30 is an iso 150 v the Tellus which is iso 46. That is a massive difference. Can't be right surely?

 

[RobCox]

Gamet bearings may 'just be bearings' but they are incredibly expensive

Yup, been there recently with my M300. £1475 for a front spindle bearing (luckily I got a good used one somewhat cheaper) so based on that I'd spend out on the right oil - cheaper in the long run!

 

[Dieselman 63]

We use iso 68 hydraulic oil in the machine tools we build. This is for lubrication to helical gears, worm gear sets, plain and roller bearings and also for hydrostatic bearings. I'm not saying that is what Colchester would recommend so I suggest you give them a call. They're based in Elland as Colchester Machine Tool Solutions and they should point you in the right direction.

Iso 68 is what I use however I only use it as I’ve been advised that due to NZ being hotter than the UK, a thinner oil is better as the iso 32 won’t get flung around as well.

 

[fizzy]

Iso 68 is what I use however I only use it as I’ve been advised that due to NZ being hotter than the UK, a thinner oil is better as the iso 32 won’t get flung around as well.

Don't you mean a thicker oil is better in NZ?

 

[roofman]

 

[Dieselman 63]

Don't you mean a thicker oil is better in NZ?

No, thinner.

 

[fizzy]

No, thinner.

But thicker oil is better in warmer countries isn't it?

 

[Munkul]

Wow, whole pages of absolute tosh about how people somehow know far better than the manufacturer about what (totally and utterly different) oils are better

By all means, run whatever crap you like in your lathe, but don't recommend the same crap to others and then expect no backlash!

 

[minimutly]

Wow, whole pages of absolute tosh about how people somehow know far better than the manufacturer about what (totally and utterly different) oils are better

By all means, run whatever crap you like in your lathe, but don't recommend the same crap to others and then expect no backlash!

even if the manufacturers reccomendation is 50 years out of date....

 

[LeoMkII]

But thicker oil is better in warmer countries isn't it?

As a rule yes, sticking with iso grade hydraulic oils most construction equipment manufacturers use iso46 in ambient temps of say -10 to30c but when the same machine is used In higher temps of say 0to40c+ they will specify iso 68 and in lower temps of say -20to20c they will almost always spec iso32 in the hydraulic system's.

 

[Munkul]

even if the manufacturers reccomendation is 50 years out of date....

Oh yeah i forgot that ISO 46 had moved on so far in spec since 50 years ago... Oh wait

 

[mike os]

When I wanted oil for mine I spoke to someone at morris oils … they told me what the modern, and available replacement oil was … simple

The original spec was telus something (Colchester lathe) and replacement was as my previous post.

You can use whatever floats your boat … used chip fat, paraffin, rendered beef dripping … personally I’d sooner use a substitute that is at least similar to the oem spec

 

[fizzy]

I do wonder about compressor oil.
They say to use something like iso32 hydraulic oil but there must be something better these days?
I mean a 10/40 oil would be better in the depths of winter.
I am sure the same goes for lathes.
But I suspect there is very little real difference if you use clean oil and change it regularly.

 

[Dieselman 63]

I do wonder about compressor oil.
They say to use something like iso32 hydraulic oil but there must be something better these days?
I mean a 10/40 oil would be better in the depths of winter.
I am sure the same goes for lathes.
But I suspect there is very little real difference if you use clean oil and change it regularly.

Colchester says three month intervals I think. I’m blessed as the Bantam is equipped with automatic oil change technology, it slowly weeps out and I just keep topping it up.

 

[fizzy]

Colchester says three month intervals I think. I’m blessed as the Bantam is equipped with automatic oil change technology, it slowly weeps out and I just keep topping it up.

Lol my Triumph does that. Won't rust anyway!

 

[LeoMkII]

A good few years ago I had an interesting conversation with a Briggs and Stratton technical rep in the state's and we ended up talking about the advantages or disadvantages of using the increasingly popular engine oil grade of synthetic 5w/30 vs standard sae30 as specified by nearly all small engine manufacturers.
He said that briggs where of the opinion that sae30 was cost effective, suitable and exceeded the requirements of their engines when serviced properly, however 5w/30 was a far superior oil that greatly exceeded the requirements of their engines. if used after an initial 10 hour break in on sae30 it would have better economy and give extended engine life.
That was one man's opinion maybe 15 odd years ago.

What I'm getting at is that hydraulic oils used in lathes by manufacturers are also cost effective, meet their requirements and give sufficient component life when serviced right.
Are there better oils for the lathe gearbox than hydraulic oils? Of course there are, but there more expensive.

Put the appropriate viscosity hydraulic oil in the transmission of a volvo dumptruck, a cat D9 dozer or a modern power shift tractor, will it work as Intended? Probably.
If serviced as specified will it give sufficient component life? Maybe.
Will it fail before another transmission using the proper transmission oil under the same load and conditions? Definitely.

My dsg specifies iso32 in the headstock and iso68 for the tread cutting gearbox, I use cat 10w transmission oil in the headstock and 10w/30 tractor transmission fluid In the tread gearbox and apron.
I have these oils at my disposal and I'm confident they exceed the manufacturer's specifications.
This is not meant as a recommendation, it's just my opinion and what works for me.

 

[Scalarocco]

Manufacturers specify the oil needed based on what is best for the machine they designed. If the lube plate says just stick whatever you have lying around in there then fine, but they don't. Just because the idea of using a hydraulic oil as a lubricant sounds daft doesn't mean the manufacturer got it wrong or was being cheap, but as you say, it's your machine so you decide what risks you're prepared to take. It just seems odd to take that risk when the correct oil is readily available and is just as relevant today as it was 50 years ago.

 

[LeoMkII]

Manufacturers specify the oil needed based on what is best for the machine they designed. If the lube plate says just stick whatever you have lying around in there then fine, but they don't. Just because the idea of using a hydraulic oil as a lubricant sounds daft doesn't mean the manufacturer got it wrong or was being cheap, but as you say, it's your machine so you decide what risks you're prepared to take. It just seems odd to take that risk when the correct oil is readily available and is just as relevant today as it was 50 years ago.

This is a debate that's being going on for years across many different forums, in workshops and toolrooms all over the world.
I don't think the manufacturer's got it wrong, there are many lathes out there that are 50-60 years+ are still going strong and all they've ever seen was hyd oil.
I think the life of any machine is regular oil changes with good quality oil.
I have hydraulic and transmission oils here from some of the biggest oem manufacturers in the world, Volvo caterpillar Hitachi to name a few, my choice of oil is not based on what I have lying about but what I believe is a better oil. I choose a transmission oil over a hydraulic oil in my headstock because the headstock gearbox is a transmission.

 

[mtt.tr]

I don't think oil is as critical as people think.
For my huge Holbrook H20 it says to use Shell Talpa 30. For the 1500rpm version it says to use Tellus 29. The Talpa 30 is an iso 150 v the Tellus which is iso 46. That is a massive difference. Can't be right surely?

As critical!!

The only thing stopping those bearings be knackered is the quality of the oil film

 

[Bornfree]

I do wonder about compressor oil.
They say to use something like iso32 hydraulic oil but there must be something better these days?
I mean a 10/40 oil would be better in the depths of winter.
I am sure the same goes for lathes.
But I suspect there is very little real difference if you use clean oil and change it regularly.

a iso32 hydraulic oil is equivalent to a sae15 engine oil in viscosity.