Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Rich coming from me, and my slow.... buys.
- Thread starter dieselsamurai
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dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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A bigger lathe has been on the list for years and didnt really want a 'project' but I know it will sit there for 10 years and be scrap if I dont have it
Sods law 2 would come up at the same time a Colchester and this but this one will be a doddle to move its sat next to a forklift and my mate is fitting a 2 ton hiab to his trailer this week
Brad93
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Get it bought. £100 is a bargain. Gear easy enough to get made for not too much money. That gear only runs the power feed and screw cutting. Not the spindle.
I’d be half tempted to scrape the rust off as Pete said then make a citric acid paste, let that work in then hit it with brass wire brush and finally wire wool.
I’d be half tempted to scrape the rust off as Pete said then make a citric acid paste, let that work in then hit it with brass wire brush and finally wire wool.
Brad93
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Remember to let me know about that ColchesterA bigger lathe has been on the list for years and didnt really want a 'project' but I know it will sit there for 10 years and be scrap if I dont have it
Sods law 2 would come up at the same time a Colchester and this but this one will be a doddle to move its sat next to a forklift and my mate is fitting a 2 ton hiab to his trailer this week
pressbrake1
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I’d rip his arm off
pressbrake1
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European din fitting spindle nose so easily found and current tooling
Screwdriver
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Well it's no money at all really. All the cost is in transport and storage plus the inevitable restoration.
If the total cost is within your "budget" it's a no brainer, buy the hell out of it. Probably as rare as hens teeth so if it doesn't come with it, it will probably never have it (could be wrong about that!) but it doesn't matter because even if the lack of parts "writes it off', you're sitting on a gold mine of spares for someone else's dream.
With any luck that's just light surface rust but don't let anyone mess with the handles or move the carriage to see if it moves. That will grind the crap out of it!
Looks like a proper old school overengineered machine. Very nice. Great name!
If the total cost is within your "budget" it's a no brainer, buy the hell out of it. Probably as rare as hens teeth so if it doesn't come with it, it will probably never have it (could be wrong about that!) but it doesn't matter because even if the lack of parts "writes it off', you're sitting on a gold mine of spares for someone else's dream.
With any luck that's just light surface rust but don't let anyone mess with the handles or move the carriage to see if it moves. That will grind the crap out of it!
Looks like a proper old school overengineered machine. Very nice. Great name!
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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good idea ive used citric paste before works a treat
Screwdriver
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I have tried all manner of paste mixtures with citric acid and the problem is mobility. Once the acid in contact with the surface is used up, that's it. Game over. With a liquid acid bath, the acid is more mobile and replenishes from the larger volume of solution.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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I mix it with wallpaper paste flakes just the right consistancy then keep moving it about on the surface
Brad93
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That’s it just keep agitating with a brass wire brush.
Screwdriver
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I went through a period of testing various mixes when I tried to make some home grown Nitromors. I had (have??) a ton of methyl cellulose left over plus some corn starch (from various sugru experiments).
I seem to recall I had some large, difficult to submerge parts I wanted to "dip". In both cases (Nitromors/citric paste) I discover the relative effects were hindered by the static goo not replenishing the active ingredient. I certainly wasn't about to agitate the dichloromethane mixture which was a fantastically dangerous substance (!) and I personally did not discover any significant advantages in using a citric paste for rust removal.
I concluded it was better to use a strong liquid solution and to keep brushing that on. Incidentally, I am not saying I am "right" or that anyone else is "wrong", those are just my observations from a number of tests I did which I am sharing here. It does make me wonder if agitating a paste to make it work is better than just agitating a liquid solution because the ideal scenario with citric is to allow it to work for several hours at a time!
I am also trying to second guess what might be the precise composition of Evaporust (a totally different type of rust removing agent) and if anyone has a recipe I'd be happy to hear it.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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I have to say my experience with using a paste was more successful , I needed to derust my chevy pickups chassis after i stripped it down sandblasting would have pi$$ed of the nieghbours so i tried paste and found it got 90% of it back to good metal. Just lately ive been using phosphoric acid as it derusts and doesnt flash rust after youve cleaned it off. In fact if you dip it back in for a hour then let it air dry it leaves a protective coating and you can primer straight over it
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Best recipes for citric acid paste please, heard flour mentioned ?
Not wishing to hijack this thread, .... But....
Not wishing to hijack this thread, .... But....
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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What makes you say it's totally different? The MSDS (Usually the go-to for this kind of thing) doesn't give anything away but it says the pH is slightly acidic (6.1, about the same as dilute citric I'd imagine) and a quick Google says its Tannic acid.
pressbrake1
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I’m half thinking about this swift and it’s twice the price!
angellonewolf
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and twice as rusty
Brad93
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The bird crap will be more tenacious than the rustand twice as rusty
