Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
I like to be different
I have always used a bearing and assumed everybody else did too
- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
Kram
Member
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- Sussex
I might try that tonight, will a used 6204 wheel bearing do the job? Got several spare.
Both pleased and annoyed. This was a roughing cut tooo many, but dead on -if I wasnt intending a press fit, aiming for 74.8mm Any quick simple fix? The pulley OD will be turned after it is permently mounted.
Keyway and grub screw?
Both pleased and annoyed. This was a roughing cut tooo many, but dead on -if I wasnt intending a press fit, aiming for 74.8mm Any quick simple fix? The pulley OD will be turned after it is permently mounted.
Keyway and grub screw?
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,883
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Nah, that's because I wear my specs upside downIs that why your lathe tools are always upside down and you turn in reverse, and from the chuck towards the tailstock?
Needed to make a couple of stub axles for the wheels on the bandsaw table I am making. All a bit of a voyage of discovery as haven't really had a lot of time to play with the lathe since I got it a couple of years back, so was quite a nice learning project.
Had some EN16T (at least thats what I think it is going by bright finish and white paint on the end
) in 30mm.
Drilled some 25mm holes in the legs and the idea was to turn the rod down to 25mm, leaving a shoulder that would locate on the outside of the leg.
Then turn it down to 19mm which is the bore of the cast iron wheel, before ending with a M12 thread. I was going to weld in the stub axle but didn't fancy that in the end so by playing with the length of the various shoulders I have managed to mechanically fix and leave enough clearance so the wheel turns freely but doesn't wobble.
First challenge was turning the EN16T. Spent a wee while trying to work out speeds and feeds - not something I have every done before
.
I couldn't find a SFM for EN16 but as it is a bit harder than mild steel I reckoned on about 70-100? I was turning a 30mm bar so figured somewhere in the 200-300 rpm. The other imponderable was the feed speed.
I initially started it at what I thought was quite slow but it was just creating ridges/threads until I realised I was using the rapid transverse (or whatever it is called)
. Once I engaged the leadscrew feed at about .005"/rev it all started to come together.....
That was after grinding about 6 different HSS profiles before I got any that worked/were sharp enough.
So, 2 hours later and I could actually start turning the stub axle
- great learning experience though.
This was the chip when pushing a bit to hard/fast
And once I had it dialled in a bit better got them coming out like this with a 20 thou DOC
Even started to understand the value of chipbreakers as I dissapeared in a birdsnest of hot steel!
Eventually got the stub turned down and was quite pleased with the finish. Not polished but pretty smooth and way better than previous attempts
And after a beer even had time to clean down the shop ready to turn the other one tomorrow
Cheers,
MM
Had some EN16T (at least thats what I think it is going by bright finish and white paint on the end
) in 30mm. Drilled some 25mm holes in the legs and the idea was to turn the rod down to 25mm, leaving a shoulder that would locate on the outside of the leg.
Then turn it down to 19mm which is the bore of the cast iron wheel, before ending with a M12 thread. I was going to weld in the stub axle but didn't fancy that in the end so by playing with the length of the various shoulders I have managed to mechanically fix and leave enough clearance so the wheel turns freely but doesn't wobble.
First challenge was turning the EN16T. Spent a wee while trying to work out speeds and feeds - not something I have every done before
.I couldn't find a SFM for EN16 but as it is a bit harder than mild steel I reckoned on about 70-100? I was turning a 30mm bar so figured somewhere in the 200-300 rpm. The other imponderable was the feed speed.
I initially started it at what I thought was quite slow but it was just creating ridges/threads until I realised I was using the rapid transverse (or whatever it is called)
. Once I engaged the leadscrew feed at about .005"/rev it all started to come together.....That was after grinding about 6 different HSS profiles before I got any that worked/were sharp enough.
So, 2 hours later and I could actually start turning the stub axle
- great learning experience though.This was the chip when pushing a bit to hard/fast
And once I had it dialled in a bit better got them coming out like this with a 20 thou DOC
Even started to understand the value of chipbreakers as I dissapeared in a birdsnest of hot steel!
Eventually got the stub turned down and was quite pleased with the finish. Not polished but pretty smooth and way better than previous attempts
And after a beer even had time to clean down the shop ready to turn the other one tomorrow
Cheers,
MM
This is a question about something I would like to machine....... but rather than start a new thread I thought i would throw it out here
I have an old radius dresser and as I would like to be able to turn radius's on the lathe to make some ball end handles I was wondering if I could repurpose this?
The idea would be to mount it to the cross slide and make a HSS or carbide bit. I am wondering if rigidity will be an issue, although the home made radius turners I have seen don't seem that rigid.....
Would look a bit like this
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
MM
I have an old radius dresser and as I would like to be able to turn radius's on the lathe to make some ball end handles I was wondering if I could repurpose this?
The idea would be to mount it to the cross slide and make a HSS or carbide bit. I am wondering if rigidity will be an issue, although the home made radius turners I have seen don't seem that rigid.....
Would look a bit like this
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
MM
Kram
Member
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- 8,187
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- Sussex
Finally got pulley clocked in, bored out to 74.86, and all faces true for next time. The shaft is 74.96. Im assuming 0.1mm is the more than enough - and not too much? interference fit, for a weak cast iron part like this - had a good look through machinery handbook and online calcs but could not find any simple rule of thumb.
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
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- ......
Picked up one of these for a fiverThis is a question about something I would like to machine....... but rather than start a new thread I thought i would throw it out here
I have an old radius dresser and as I would like to be able to turn radius's on the lathe to make some ball end handles I was wondering if I could repurpose this?
The idea would be to mount it to the cross slide and make a HSS or carbide bit. I am wondering if rigidity will be an issue, although the home made radius turners I have seen don't seem that rigid.....
Would look a bit like this
View attachment 206612
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
MM
Easy enough to replicate and feels would in use
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Cata...s/Universal-Radius-Turning-Attachment-12x12mm
@fizzy
A bit of scrap box section!!!
I have got my Marlow Mill operational. I've never used a mill before.
Banggood let me down with the original VFD that I ordered. After eight days of processing the order they advised me it was out of stock and it took a few more days to get the refund.
In place of the the 380v output VFD I ordered one of the cheap 220v VFDs off Ebay for a little over fifty quid delivered. I am a bit skint this month and just wanted to get the mill going so went the cheap route. It was from one of those Chinese sellers with stuff supposedly based in England and I was very surprised to receive it within 36 hours of the order. Really cant complain.
A bit of scrap box section!!!
I have got my Marlow Mill operational. I've never used a mill before.
Banggood let me down with the original VFD that I ordered. After eight days of processing the order they advised me it was out of stock and it took a few more days to get the refund.
In place of the the 380v output VFD I ordered one of the cheap 220v VFDs off Ebay for a little over fifty quid delivered. I am a bit skint this month and just wanted to get the mill going so went the cheap route. It was from one of those Chinese sellers with stuff supposedly based in England and I was very surprised to receive it within 36 hours of the order. Really cant complain.
Belt change was the first job. I had the motor mount piece off a few times. It was just four bolts awkwardly situated behind the front pulley. Originally it was to change to the belt but I wanted a good look at the motor. It is quite a niche one. I've not found one like it. It has a very long shaft, 100mm. All the standard ones are 45mm. The front face of the motor has a small diameter too. There's only 100mm to play with where it bolts up between the rails so again a standard motor would struggle to fit unless an adaptor plate was used.
Brad93
Member
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- Essex, United Kingdom
0.001” / inch diameter
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 8,187
- Location
- Sussex
Ordered Er40 collets, 21-29 from China and 30mm from Amadeal, so that I can use it quicker. Ordered ball bearing nut from Arceuro aswell.
Bored it to 26mm and started on the spindle register. This is tough, might stop and sort out the headstock which has 3 thou of play and makes too much noise.
However flipped the part and clocked it carefully to 0.8thou runout and 15 um on the face. Happy with that.
Bored it to 26mm and started on the spindle register. This is tough, might stop and sort out the headstock which has 3 thou of play and makes too much noise.
However flipped the part and clocked it carefully to 0.8thou runout and 15 um on the face. Happy with that.
