- Thread starter Jlg
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zx9
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After first taking out the chuck which will be on a similar taper.
BTW If the tail stock barrel is hollow it is ok to use a long drift to free a stuck taper fitting.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Nope just the taper.
If it hasnt been out for years might need some gentle persuasion
If it hasnt been out for years might need some gentle persuasion
Carl Wilson
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There is a taper on the internal bore of the tailstock barrel. It is called a "Morse" taper. They come in various sizes, denoted by numbers. The Drummond B type has a number 1 Morse taper, usually abbreviated to 1MT, or MT1, as Jlg mentions above.
To fit the centre you just push it into the female taper in the tailstock barrel. It is permissible to give the end a very light tap with a soft faced hammer to ensure it is home. It is very important that the internal bore of the tailstock barrel and the centre itself are scrupulously clean prior to mating up; any dirt or swarf particles will cause the precision taper to either misalign or simply not engage at all.
When you have finished, wind the tailstock barrel all the way in. The tailstock leadscrew will then contact the back of the centre and eject it from the barrel.
Edit:- As I posted this I realised that others have given broadly the same information. You must all have been writing while I was trying to string two sentences together. Apologies for the duplication.
Congratulations on getting a fantastic example of one of these stunning lathes. Not only have you gained a useful addition to your workshop, you also now own a piece of British Engineering and Industrial Heritage.
It is a tribute to the designers and makers of these little machines that they are still more than capable of turning out sterling work nearly 100 years after they were originally produced.
To fit the centre you just push it into the female taper in the tailstock barrel. It is permissible to give the end a very light tap with a soft faced hammer to ensure it is home. It is very important that the internal bore of the tailstock barrel and the centre itself are scrupulously clean prior to mating up; any dirt or swarf particles will cause the precision taper to either misalign or simply not engage at all.
When you have finished, wind the tailstock barrel all the way in. The tailstock leadscrew will then contact the back of the centre and eject it from the barrel.
Edit:- As I posted this I realised that others have given broadly the same information. You must all have been writing while I was trying to string two sentences together. Apologies for the duplication.
Congratulations on getting a fantastic example of one of these stunning lathes. Not only have you gained a useful addition to your workshop, you also now own a piece of British Engineering and Industrial Heritage.
It is a tribute to the designers and makers of these little machines that they are still more than capable of turning out sterling work nearly 100 years after they were originally produced.
Jlg
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I've got the play out of it now the previous owner had put the bearings in upside down whith the oil hole at the bottom so no oil was getting into the bearing causing it to wear faster put it back together properly tighten the screws up and there's hardly any play now
slim_boy_fat
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eLuSiVeMiTe
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slim_boy_fat
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Jlg
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I meant to get one on Friday but I didn't remember till I had been in the que for the till for half a hourI have a copper/leather 2 x faced one - the copper one gets the most use [gently] of the two.
They're not all that expensive.
slim_boy_fat
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Jlg
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It is indeedGood fun, isn't it!
Jlg
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I've got a problem with my four inch chuck one of the jaws is stuck and the previous owner has broken part of where you put the key so when you try to turn it the key just slips out anyone know how to fix it or have a 4" four jaw chuck cheap and good condition decent condition
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Bought a nice set of glanze indexible tooling designed to use one insert for all. Well worthwhile. https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_777102_.html
Various sizes available
