Primer, Sealant and Body Filler

Applying body filler

A metal rule can be used to help apply body filler (bondo) and saves time, sanding, and wastage. I'd claim to have prepared a whole car using just 1L of filler had I not had to go back for a second and then third tin.

Also techniques for using stopper (knifing putty) and final sanding before paint.

Primers and wet flatting

Primer should bond effectively to bare metal, and this page includes some tips about selecting primers and spraying technique for bare metal.

High build primers are used to level panels prior to colour coating. Generally after the high build primer coats a thin guide (or flash) coat is applied and then sanded off completely to ensure the primer is completely smooth.

The page also includes some notes on other types of primer and their applications.

Seam sealing

Decent seam sealing is essential to the life of any restoration. Cars tend to be assembled with overlapping spot welded joints. When water finds it's way into the gaps between the joints it can't get out again. So it just sits there and rusts the joint away.

Stopping water getting into the joints is the way to avoid this rust. The page starts with what happens when water does get in, and goes on to how to apply sealant neatly.

Anti-stonechip primer

Anti-stonechip primer over-coated with colour top coat is an excellent way to protect under floor and wheelarch areas, but the paint does settle in the tins which can cause disaster for the unwary (me). It's far from uncommon to be caught out by old tins sold as new.

The page covers how to work out if the tin is any good, then moves onto more useful things such as thinning the primer for use on exposed exterior panels with a flat finish rather than the normal orange peel finish.