123hotchef
Member
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- 14,360
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- Kent
i need to try this are we saying slits or triangles?
- Thread starter steveo3002
- Start date
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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- 9,255
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- South West
Pictures please
The only thing I have done is turn them into scrapers for tiles etc. but you only need so meany
Screwdriver
Member
- Messages
- 10,751
Unlikely to be cost effective or even possible at all. I imagine most of these disposable blades will be hardpoint.
I've done loads, as have others on here!
keithski122
Member
- Messages
- 2,026
I have a couple, mainly because I forgot I already had one and bought another.Never really used them much, far too noisey for sanding, blades wear out really quick, normally another tool available that will do a better quicker job.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
- Messages
- 6,354
- Location
- Glapwell, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK
I fairly shore this is the kit I have.
www.toolden.co.uk
DeWalt DWE315KT Multi-Tool Quick Change Kit & TSTAK 300W 240V
Shop for DeWalt DWE315KT Multi-Tool Kit at Toolden. Free shipping for orders over £50. 0% interest-free finance available.
www.toolden.co.uk
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- 6,229
- Location
- Ireland
Must try that. It appeals to my inner Aberdonian.
brightspark
Member
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- 41,277
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- yarm stockton on tees
a good quality tool well worth having i. have the battery operated one which is a must for me using it a lot and not having to plug it in . need the quick change blade as wellI fairly shore this is the kit I have.
DeWalt DWE315KT Multi-Tool Quick Change Kit & TSTAK 300W 240V
Shop for DeWalt DWE315KT Multi-Tool Kit at Toolden. Free shipping for orders over £50. 0% interest-free finance available.
Last edited:
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
- Messages
- 9,255
- Location
- South West
Photos
Remember on nails small things it cuts on 3/4 teeth max
Would work on plaster board I expect
brightspark
Member
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- 41,277
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- yarm stockton on tees
its ok sharpening them with a slitting disk just cut the
teeth at an angle ,you wont get many probably about 8 teeth .ok for cutting plasterboard and plaster walls but not much good on wood
Oh it doesn't matter. Just keep buying them!
I'm only trying to help others and maybe save them a few quid..
I have an erbauer cordless one.
It has saved me loads of time and effort when working on my old car (exhaust pipe sectioning, seized inaccessible engine studs and general bodywork).
Also used it around the house for floorboards, tiles, door hinge screws.
Would I buy another one? Definitely!
It has saved me loads of time and effort when working on my old car (exhaust pipe sectioning, seized inaccessible engine studs and general bodywork).
Also used it around the house for floorboards, tiles, door hinge screws.
Would I buy another one? Definitely!
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,500
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Same here, saw them and thought I didn't need one till I borrowed one for a job and was so impressed went and bought my own
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,653
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
I took up a whole kitchens worth (16ft x 9ft) of 1950s(?) bitchumen [1] vinyl tiles on two charges of 4Ah batteries - they last a lot longer than you would imagine.
That's the M18 version, though.
[1] not a spelling mistake - they were a nightmare to remove, even using a blowtorch at the same time.
If I had to replace all my power tools, it would be the second thing right after the cordless drill.
And I wouldn't even stop to think about it.
brightspark
Member
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- 41,277
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- yarm stockton on tees
the chorded ones are good for diy or professional home or workshop use but for jobbing around the chordless ones are a must i have both. bough one when they 1st came out
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,491
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I have a Lidl battery one that's getting on for 11 yrs old and a Screwfix one that is about six years old .
They are a pretty versatile tool good for plunge cutting joints including mitres & dovetails , good for following a sharpie line ( wrap a thin card round a pipe to get the line ) to get it perfectly at 90% to the vertical , same with angled cuts or long Scarfe joints , great for chop/plunge cutting coving to put pipe through . To get a good vertical cut clamp a block of some thing solid and square on to what you want to cut & let the cutter closely follow the guide down into the material you're cutting . Both my multi tools have variable speed play on scrap till your well versed at what sort of speed & cutter you need for different materials
I've recently finished the laying of a portion of the slip resist wet room ceramic floor tiles , the new tiles were not 100 mm squares like the originals put in 18 yrs ago but 98 mm squares , had an interesting time using the multitool with a diamond impregnated cutter trying to align slightly out of alignment the joints better .
I'd recommend :-
Buy two industrial grade sets of cutting tools ( Think mine are of the Trend brand ) likely to cost more than the machine , but it works out cheaper in the long run , when one is worn out the other is on hand so does not stop you doing the job , Obviously replace like for like ASAP afterwards .
Make sure you align the cutting tools perfectly into the machine head , it's not always apparent that they are not fully set in on the tiny driving dimples .. Glasses & a magnifying glass help tremendously here .
So does a six/seven inch long Allen key with a " T " handle , once the cutting tool is correctly fitted , pinched up and checked for fit , use the short end of the Allen key on the Allen key headed bolt and the long lever to get it properly tight using only a two gently pulled two finger pull .
I discovered that the retaining Allen headed screws & blade retainer washer were different for each machine .. one is a smidgeon longeer then the other and bottomed in the wrong machine leaving the blade slightly moveable/loose .
I used the battery one with a 15 mm blade tip to plunge cut frozen foam inserts cut from a new green firm density closed cell gym mat foam for my wife's bonsai tool case ( A labour of love & surprise Crimbo prezzie filled with decent tools ten or so years ago.)
Using a double layer at the top and bottom I drew round the tools going in each insert with a super fine point sharpie , wet the foam and deep froze it over night , then cut to the depth of one thickness for thb outlines and in between these four foams another two sheet cut again in oly one layer . I also put loads of horticultural loop & hook velcro style tape either side of the holes to retain the tools before carpet spray gluing the pairs of sheets up .
When replacing the cooker extractor hood & chimney I was more than miffed to find the kitchen fitters had tiled up to and not behind the chimney & hood .
The new replacement was a different size in many aspects . . To get at the old chimney out I had to remove a row of tiles either side and also two layers from below the extractor . . the long off set blades were brilliant for removing the tiny 12 inch or so wide off cuts of tiles up the sides of the chimney & after busting out one tile completely gave me better access getting in under the adhesive and lifting of a lot of the tiles off without breaking them The diamond abrasive blade was brill for cleaning up adhesive and grout on the undamaged tiles .
I was fortunate in finding a few end of line 75 mm tiles with the same riven effect glazed surface , in a slightly similar & contrasting colour to tile the whole bare of tiles area . Then two days late fitted the new unit on top of the new grouted up tiling , Happy in the knowledge that in 10 or so years if needed a replacement extractor can easily & be quickly fitted in 25 min or so when the current one fails . .
They are a pretty versatile tool good for plunge cutting joints including mitres & dovetails , good for following a sharpie line ( wrap a thin card round a pipe to get the line ) to get it perfectly at 90% to the vertical , same with angled cuts or long Scarfe joints , great for chop/plunge cutting coving to put pipe through . To get a good vertical cut clamp a block of some thing solid and square on to what you want to cut & let the cutter closely follow the guide down into the material you're cutting . Both my multi tools have variable speed play on scrap till your well versed at what sort of speed & cutter you need for different materials
I've recently finished the laying of a portion of the slip resist wet room ceramic floor tiles , the new tiles were not 100 mm squares like the originals put in 18 yrs ago but 98 mm squares , had an interesting time using the multitool with a diamond impregnated cutter trying to align slightly out of alignment the joints better .
I'd recommend :-
Buy two industrial grade sets of cutting tools ( Think mine are of the Trend brand ) likely to cost more than the machine , but it works out cheaper in the long run , when one is worn out the other is on hand so does not stop you doing the job , Obviously replace like for like ASAP afterwards .
Make sure you align the cutting tools perfectly into the machine head , it's not always apparent that they are not fully set in on the tiny driving dimples .. Glasses & a magnifying glass help tremendously here .
So does a six/seven inch long Allen key with a " T " handle , once the cutting tool is correctly fitted , pinched up and checked for fit , use the short end of the Allen key on the Allen key headed bolt and the long lever to get it properly tight using only a two gently pulled two finger pull .
I discovered that the retaining Allen headed screws & blade retainer washer were different for each machine .. one is a smidgeon longeer then the other and bottomed in the wrong machine leaving the blade slightly moveable/loose .
I used the battery one with a 15 mm blade tip to plunge cut frozen foam inserts cut from a new green firm density closed cell gym mat foam for my wife's bonsai tool case ( A labour of love & surprise Crimbo prezzie filled with decent tools ten or so years ago.)
Using a double layer at the top and bottom I drew round the tools going in each insert with a super fine point sharpie , wet the foam and deep froze it over night , then cut to the depth of one thickness for thb outlines and in between these four foams another two sheet cut again in oly one layer . I also put loads of horticultural loop & hook velcro style tape either side of the holes to retain the tools before carpet spray gluing the pairs of sheets up .
When replacing the cooker extractor hood & chimney I was more than miffed to find the kitchen fitters had tiled up to and not behind the chimney & hood .
The new replacement was a different size in many aspects . . To get at the old chimney out I had to remove a row of tiles either side and also two layers from below the extractor . . the long off set blades were brilliant for removing the tiny 12 inch or so wide off cuts of tiles up the sides of the chimney & after busting out one tile completely gave me better access getting in under the adhesive and lifting of a lot of the tiles off without breaking them The diamond abrasive blade was brill for cleaning up adhesive and grout on the undamaged tiles .
I was fortunate in finding a few end of line 75 mm tiles with the same riven effect glazed surface , in a slightly similar & contrasting colour to tile the whole bare of tiles area . Then two days late fitted the new unit on top of the new grouted up tiling , Happy in the knowledge that in 10 or so years if needed a replacement extractor can easily & be quickly fitted in 25 min or so when the current one fails . .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,491
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Use the stainless tool to shave off as much of the sealant off the wall after the old bath is out as is possible , then use a sealant dissolver on cotton towelling to get the final bits off if it is on tiles . On bare plaster you should be OK just slicing it off flat to the wall & re-sealing round a full bath of water once it has stood & settled on the feet & flooring for a few hours . Do read the fitting instruction for putting in the new bath ..lots of folk don't and so come unstuck doing it.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,491
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Put " CT1 silicone sealant remover " into your search engine and have a good read . If you have a local to you Screwfix they might well have it on the shelves too for click and collect or an over the counter purchase.
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 720
- Location
- Maine, USA
As mentioned in my earlier post I have an older cordless Bosch and a newer corded DeWalt oscillating tool, but as of about an hour ago, I may be down to just the DeWalt. I started to cut an opening for a junction box, and the Bosch started making a nasty grinding and rattling noise. 
I haven't had time to dissect it and see if it's fatal or if I can simply replace a part or two. If it's fixable, I'll post the repair on the 'Things you've fixed today' thread. This isn't necessarily a negative reflection on Bosch, as I've used (and probably abused) this tool quite heavily for years, so I'd still recommend both the Bosch and the DeWalt. 
I haven't had time to dissect it and see if it's fatal or if I can simply replace a part or two. If it's fixable, I'll post the repair on the 'Things you've fixed today' thread. This isn't necessarily a negative reflection on Bosch, as I've used (and probably abused) this tool quite heavily for years, so I'd still recommend both the Bosch and the DeWalt. 