Which shed

[Robotstar5]

A small Transit fridge body and clad it to look like a shed. Normally get change out of £400 , insulation is normally 100mm ish thick, decent floor,water tight, condensation proof and easy to heat. Just thoughts

Bob

View attachment 490250

Would be nice, I wonder what it would cost to close a bus route so a big crane could be parked on the road to fly it over the house 25 metres?, plus dropping phone lines isn't as easy these days as it's continuous fibre so can't just be cut and re-connected.

 

[Robotstar5]

i wouldnt buy a pinelap shed or some of the other sheds as they are only 1" thick batterns

These are the specs for the shed I'm looking at, what do you think?

The bearers have a composite section on the bottom to keep the wood clear of the ground.

 

[Robotstar5]

Pallet shed.

See my post #12

 

[redlig]

This is a 10x8 as an example on Amazon Prime. £600

Amazon.co.uk

amzn.eu

View attachment 490213

Are you sure it isn't a " wendy house" ?

 

[jmp49]

Would be nice, I wonder what it would cost to close a bus route so a big crane could be parked on the road to fly it over the house 25 metres?, plus dropping phone lines isn't as easy these days as it's continuous fibre so can't just be cut and re-connected.

Have you ever considered moving to make the shed cheaper?

 

[gaz1]

Sweeping generalisation that is incorrect, as usual. Buying a shed with battens thicker than 1" is perfectly straightforward. Even the (not great, non Tiger) shed that I put up a few months ago for my mate had 44mm battens.

I laid the foundations for a 15ft x 10 garage based shed with 2 double doors on the front

I wasnt building the shed as it was only the hard job that was needed for me oh i got called back in when the roof was needed to be fitted on it as sides built up

guess what the owner of said garage did built right up against the boundary wall where the overhanged jetted all of that roofs water onto there land

then expects to fit a gutter on the boundary walls itself if any trouble comes from it oh and i expected it as its water errosion from the buyer of the shed onto another persons land

this shed

https://www.buyshedsdirect.co.uk/10-x-15-forest-overlap-pressure-treated-double-door-apex-wooden-shed?_$ja=tsid:|cid:1576384201|agid:98639410253|tid:pla-2277999483738|crid:424605325103|nw:g|rnd:7870172817357351817|dvc:c|adp:&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoPCAmp-wjAMVdJFQBh1gkQb6EAQYAiABEgKvZ_D_BwE

these went under the shed and wasnt even gravel filled

Amazon.co.uk

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[MattF]

A small Transit fridge body and clad it to look like a shed. Normally get change out of £400 , insulation is normally 100mm ish thick, decent floor,water tight, condensation proof and easy to heat. Just thoughts

Bob

View attachment 490250

His missus would love you for putting that notion in his head, if he went that route.

 

[gaz1]

These are the specs for the shed I'm looking at, what do you think?

The bearers have a composite section on the bottom to keep the wood clear of the ground.

View attachment 490253

im the wrong person to ask as i dont like them in the first place

though if you pay cheap you get cheap and that also goes for pay dear you get cheap crap as well

pinlap they dip them in creosote

my advice do a price up on materials

even if you went down the route of a solid build ( concrete blocks, sand, cement- hardcore, cement ) roof 11mm osb felt and then metal roof

then check the labour out and your about even

wood build is the same

which one builds up quicker a prebuilt wood shed you can do the same with a strengthened prebuilt shed

which one is the strongest a solid concrete block

will your paper storage last in any of the builds no it will stick together and go damp

 

[skotl]

Sweeping generalisation that is incorrect, as usual. Buying a shed with battens thicker than 1" is perfectly straightforward. Even the (not great, non Tiger) shed that I put up a few months ago for my mate had 44mm battens.

I laid the foundations for a 15ft x 10 garage based shed with 2 double doors on the front

I wasnt building the shed as it was only the hard job that was needed for me oh i got called back in when the roof was needed to be fitted on it as sides built up

guess what the owner of said garage did built right up against the boundary wall where the overhanged jetted all of that roofs water onto there land

then expects to fit a gutter on the boundary walls itself if any trouble comes from it oh and i expected it as its water errosion from the buyer of the shed onto another persons land

this shed

https://www.buyshedsdirect.co.uk/10-x-15-forest-overlap-pressure-treated-double-door-apex-wooden-shed?_$ja=tsid:|cid:1576384201|agid:98639410253|tid:pla-2277999483738|crid:424605325103|nw:g|rnd:7870172817357351817|dvc:c|adp:&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoPCAmp-wjAMVdJFQBh1gkQb6EAQYAiABEgKvZ_D_BwE

these went under the shed and wasnt even gravel filled

Amazon.co.uk

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[aesmith]

We bought the cheapest 8x6 we could get. It was for inside one of the dutch barns so doesn’t actually have to be weathertight. Unbelievably poor quality, and in the instructions they even had the nerve to recommend you cover it in bad weather.

 

[angellonewolf]

i had a shed bought off the shelf from a local shed place was yeas ago at my old house build it on rasised blocks its been up 20 years and its still there i left 10 years ago but every year i used to paint the outside took about an hour and a half i dont know what the condition is like now but its up

 

[northwest]

I would if I was 20 years younger, it grieves me I have the knowledge, skills and tools but my body has let me down

I am going to give it a go when we move anyway and my body is shot!

If I were to do it again I would build one from scratch, but I understand that's not an option for you.

This is the only way to fly, if you can of course @sako243 demonstrated in his build here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/which-shed.142807/#post-2569442 framing the sides on your carefully constructed floor then standing them up is absolutely the way to go, cant walk upright for a while afterwards though :-). I am fortunate and have a good background of timber frame construction, firstly the German Massivbau techniques then the North American timber frame methods and I tend to incorporate a bit of both into the buildings I do/have done. Keep everything 16" on centres and plywood panel walls and roof covered in Tyvek and then cedar shiplap they will last forever. Well maybe not forever but the 12' x 8' I built thirty years ago is still going strong despite it being moved from one house to another (and I still have absolutely no idea how I accomplished that).

 

[Onoff]

See my post #12

This could double up...

 

[redlig]

If you do go down the wooden shed route then can I suggest adding ply triangulated corner reinforcements to the internal corners to stiffen the structure . Only needs 1/4 or 3/8 by 6 to 8 inches to make a big difference.

 

[addjunkie]

I am going to give it a go when we move anyway and my body is shot!


This is the only way to fly, if you can of course @sako243 demonstrated in his build here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/which-shed.142807/#post-2569442 framing the sides on your carefully constructed floor then standing them up is absolutely the way to go, cant walk upright for a while afterwards though :-). I am fortunate and have a good background of timber frame construction, firstly the German Massivbau techniques then the North American timber frame methods and I tend to incorporate a bit of both into the buildings I do/have done. Keep everything 16" on centres and plywood panel walls and roof covered in Tyvek and then cedar shiplap they will last forever. Well maybe not forever but the 12' x 8' I built thirty years ago is still going strong despite it being moved from one house to another (and I still have absolutely no idea how I accomplished that).

A friend of ours built a 30x20 ish garage like that. Hands and knees on the concrete hand mixed pad, ply lined frame, insulated, stood up, and screwed together only his mrs helping hold bits up right. Then roof trusses through the builders merchant. Things he wished hed had nail gun, chop saw, knee bads and a new back! It sits on an out line of bricks and turned out well.

Think if I was to build again Id do the external cladding in Cement board or something, anything to avoid having to paint, I hate painting anything.

But if buying, buy the best you can, heaviest wood you can and keep it up off the ground with a good high base.

 

[northwest]

But if buying, buy the best you can, heaviest wood you can and keep it up off the ground with a good high base.

I sat my last one on concrete pillars (don't forget the damp proof membrane!).

 

[Bullet2012]

A small Transit fridge body and clad it to look like a shed. Normally get change out of £400 , insulation is normally 100mm ish thick, decent floor,water tight, condensation proof and easy to heat. Just thoughts

Bob

View attachment 490250

.Where can these be sourced ? I might have a use for such a thing, or a shipping container style version.

 

[jmp49]

His missus would love you for putting that notion in his head, if he went that route.

My mrs actually told me that it'd be ok if I bought a shipping container if I clad it in wood to make it look like a shed after. Its only so I finally send the rusty xlwb hightop sprinter shell to the scrapyard that I've been using as log storage for a few years mind.
There's a bit behind my barn workshop I have eyed up as a good place to clean the junk out of and pour a pad, so this hopefully will happen before I run out of budget after the sectional doors have gone on. The main trouble is the space is 30ft long, so a 20ft would be wasting 10ft, and a 40ft too long. But I could always cut a 40ft down to 30ft with the plasma right?

To actually contribute to the thread properly again, I had a smaller wooden garden shed for the veggie patch and that was notched slats that interlocked together construction that you could assemble from a kit in a couple of easy hours work. We put battens of 2x2 on all the corners and anchored them at the bottom to rebar stakes driven into the ground (loose stone base, no slab), and fixed the top of the battens to the roof structure and fixed each slat into the corner batten with a single screw to pin it. It made it a lot more solid and it survived battering from high winds that saw some of the other houses in the locality loose bits of roof. Easy to transport the kit and carry it into awkward spaces down alleys too.

edit, they call them log cabin style construction in the uk, they have no internal structure but with the battens keeping everything slotted together tight + the interlocking construction they are really strong.
these (this is a expensive example) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405708541606?_skw=log+cabin

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I spent last year repairing an old shed on my allotment. What went first was the base...which caused it all to start collapsing.

Build a good base and it will last forever*.

Reason I chose to repair was the eye watering prices of new sheds! For £2k you can buy a lot of proper wood!

*At least 20 years!

 

[8ob]

.Where can these be sourced ? I might have a use for such a thing, or a shipping container style version.

Loads on market place and Ebay, some silly money others at £200. They get taken off chassis cabs after a few years because the trucks are worth a lot more with tipper or recovery bodies fitted. I have got two here, they really are good as a dry store or small workshop. The floor is as thick as the sides, just level the ground and sit them in place.

Bob

My nipper turned one of mine into his bike shed