madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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might be a good idea to ask the environment agency being vague on location of course
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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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If you dig a well will it interfere with your neighbour's supply? I've seen cowboy films where this happened and it started a range war 
If you dig a well will it interfere with your neighbour's supply? I've seen cowboy films where this happened and it started a range war
dont think it will be a problem, my nieghbour is in his eighties, doubt he can shoot straight these days
as the crow flies it is over half a mile to his well so l doubt it will have an effect and besides l only want to top my pond back up not pump all day everyday
Andy
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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SSI
do you know l sometimes have this nightmare that after spending 10 years biulding my little nature reserve, planting 4000 native trees at my expense one day some beared sandle wearing ex hippies turn up and turf me off my own land as l have great crested newts and other rare species
what a nightmare
think l need to train the dogs to eat anything that moves or looks like a rare plant
A drop of round up mixed with paraffin and SBK poured on a bit of thick felt material makes a good weed wipe , should you accidently get those not so rare orchids whilst keeping the weeds down around them who can call you out for it .
Well this thread seems to have run dry
but not for long, l had an exploratory dig tonight just to see what was down there, lots and lots of clay is the answer, went down about 12 feet or so and eureka it was damp well more than damp wet infact 
trouble is the clay walls are not allowing the water to seep into the hole very fast,
the bottom of the hole is 5' wide 4' long and about 2' deep it took about an hour for it to fill with water, not fast enough l could empty that in 30 seconds with a pump, still it might get better further down bad light stopped play tonight
but not for long, l had an exploratory dig tonight just to see what was down there, lots and lots of clay is the answer, went down about 12 feet or so and eureka
it was damp well more than damp wet infact trouble is the clay walls are not allowing the water to seep into the hole very fast,
the bottom of the hole is 5' wide 4' long and about 2' deep it took about an hour for it to fill with water, not fast enough l could empty that in 30 seconds with a pump, still it might get better further down bad light stopped play tonight
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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looks like it's a bore hole then with the suction head about 2/3 down in the water .
Clay can often sit on top of peat or limestone so you could well have enough water .
You mentioned a wind pump ??
Check out how deep the cylinder pumps can draw from .. my pal in Cyprus was dragging water almost 30 feet up his home made well using a standard purchased wind pump ( self cast & reinforced concrete done in 2 foot drops.. the air got a bit foul at the bottom of it .
It took a couple of hours to empty it to the sump and about three 1/2 hours to refill , but most days replenished suffficiently to keep his 25 foot by 25 foor by 4 foot deep surface reservior full and over flowing .
The pump stroke delivered almost a pint per stroke , the cycle obviously depended on the wind . I seem to think we timed his at once every 4 seconds that day.
Clay can often sit on top of peat or limestone so you could well have enough water .
You mentioned a wind pump ??
Check out how deep the cylinder pumps can draw from .. my pal in Cyprus was dragging water almost 30 feet up his home made well using a standard purchased wind pump ( self cast & reinforced concrete done in 2 foot drops.. the air got a bit foul at the bottom of it .
It took a couple of hours to empty it to the sump and about three 1/2 hours to refill , but most days replenished suffficiently to keep his 25 foot by 25 foor by 4 foot deep surface reservior full and over flowing .
The pump stroke delivered almost a pint per stroke , the cycle obviously depended on the wind . I seem to think we timed his at once every 4 seconds that day.
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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your digger not got lights on then?Well this thread seems to have run dry
but not for long, l had an exploratory dig tonight just to see what was down there, lots and lots of clay is the answer, went down about 12 feet or so and eureka
trouble is the clay walls are not allowing the water to seep into the hole very fast,
the bottom of the hole is 5' wide 4' long and about 2' deep it took about an hour for it to fill with water, not fast enough l could empty that in 30 seconds with a pump, still it might get better further down bad light stopped play tonight
brightspark
Member
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clay isnt as solid as it looks .its built up of layers and not all horizontal . if it rains
the water seeps through between the layers and the sides colapse in large clumps .anything over 5ft deep needs the sides shuttering
it happened to me
the water seeps through between the layers and the sides colapse in large clumps .anything over 5ft deep needs the sides shuttering
it happened to menope its far to old for that sort of luxury
besides when it gets dark l go home very quickly there is a very very large black cat around, dont want to bump into him again he might eat me this time
right l checked the hole this morning and the water level has risen to about 6' from the surface, it was the same tonight as well so l guess its found its own level or the water table level ?
had several further ideas, like buying a septic tank like this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320698574265&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
then bury it to its neck with 20mm gravel surrounding it after first riddling it with 10mm holes, should fill its self up every day and all l would have to do is open the top and drop a hose in and pump it out ??
moving on from that l pondered a shipping container was thinking of putting lots of slits in the sides and top with an angle grinder and then dig a hole and place it in so as the top is 6" below the water table, again have 6 to 12" of 20mm gravel all round it, then slope the banks back nice and shallow so as it dosent all slide in, weld a 2" pipe into the roof that extends down the floor inside the container and use this to connect a pump to, all l would have to do is look in the hole if there was water showing above the gravel on the container roof then l would know l could pump out 40 cubic meters of water, would have to start at 11 pm of course to stay under the 20,000 litre rule
might have to put some internal braces in as container walls and roofs arn't the strongest but thats no great problem
had several further ideas, like buying a septic tank like this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320698574265&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
then bury it to its neck with 20mm gravel surrounding it after first riddling it with 10mm holes, should fill its self up every day and all l would have to do is open the top and drop a hose in and pump it out ??
moving on from that l pondered a shipping container
was thinking of putting lots of slits in the sides and top with an angle grinder and then dig a hole and place it in so as the top is 6" below the water table, again have 6 to 12" of 20mm gravel all round it, then slope the banks back nice and shallow so as it dosent all slide in, weld a 2" pipe into the roof that extends down the floor inside the container and use this to connect a pump to, all l would have to do is look in the hole if there was water showing above the gravel on the container roof then l would know l could pump out 40 cubic meters of water, would have to start at 11 pm of course to stay under the 20,000 litre rule might have to put some internal braces in as container walls and roofs arn't the strongest but thats no great problem
I used to supply this lot http://www.saxondrilling-redruth.co.uk/ As your in Kent may seem a bit off, but if memory servers me correctly they have teams across the UK. Could be worth a call.
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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You could also consider .. a 50 mtr long trench 8 foot deep .. pea grit on the bottom then two lengths of perforated 100 mm land drain or more say up to ten lengths or so of 50 mtrs ( 100 mtr rolls ) the sort that has the micro filter cloth on it .. recover in 10 mm clean stone for 30 mm or so then add 40 mm stone right up to the 5 foot depth bring them to a collector point / sump that has a concrete slab base add some 45 gallon barrels tack welded in line de topped and bottomed for the shaft .
Back fill round the barrels with a lean mix of concrete , cap off with 6 " reinforced top with a small child proof access lid.
That way you have a 50 mtr ( long or deep well / ) with the capacity of all the pipes ..seepage into the well should be better than most.
Back fill round the barrels with a lean mix of concrete , cap off with 6 " reinforced top with a small child proof access lid.
That way you have a 50 mtr ( long or deep well / ) with the capacity of all the pipes ..seepage into the well should be better than most.
You could also consider .. a 50 mtr long trench 8 foot deep .. pea grit on the bottom then two lengths of perforated 100 mm land drain or more say up to ten lengths or so of 50 mtrs ( 100 mtr rolls ) the sort that has the micro filter cloth on it .. recover in 10 mm clean stone for 30 mm or so then add 40 mm stone right up to the 5 foot depth bring them to a collector point / sump that has a concrete slab base add some 45 gallon barrels tack welded in line de topped and bottomed for the shaft .
Back fill round the barrels with a lean mix of concrete , cap off with 6 " reinforced top with a small child proof access lid.
That way you have a 50 mtr ( long or deep well / ) with the capacity of all the pipes ..seepage into the well should be better than most.
nice bit of sideways thinking there pidgeon dosent need to be deep long will do, l think l will use a variation of your suggestion,
been keeping an eye on my test pit all week, l have 4' of water in the bottom of a 12' deep hole and this hasent changed at all during wet or dry weather
l have found these on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565375815&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
thick wall plastic pipe, 200mm dia x 4m long and with an 8mm wall, was thinking of drilling loads of holes in them maybe 10mm in dia then banding them together perhaps 4 wide and 4 tall, digging a trench 9m long by 4m deep with a central sump another meter or so deeper, drop the "packs of pipes in each end set with a slight down hill to the middle, cover with a layer of 40mm gravel and then back fill and grass over leaving just the vertical centre shaft protruding from the ground for me to drop a pump down
Chickenjohn
Morris Minor and Porsche 944 fan
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He also used a metal ring jacked up from the bottom of the hole while the mortar set. Fred did have the help of few friends who were ex coal miners and knew all about tunneling. Yet another skill lost to this country!
rtbcomp
Moderator
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That makes more sense, the pressure of the jacks acting as an upside-down weight would keep the bricks in place as the mortar set.
I tried to find something on YouTube but drew a blank.
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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" 100mm Perforated Land Drainage " Google it .. for around £35 + vat per 100 mtrs
It has some thing like six rows of 1 mm slits 70 mm long every 100 mm or so along its length .
Those tubes you mention would cost around the same for 60 mtrs perhaps ?? The tubes will also be a heck of a lot heavier than the land drain .
Plus you'd have to pay for your fuel and time etc.
I'd say that you would have to drill that many holes at least 5 mm every 35 mm or so and in inch apart rows all round the pipe in diameter that you'd need to buy two quality hard working power drills to replace the current one you have in mind using ....
Also be wary of having too much fast water movement else you'll draw in dissolved / dissolving clay and clog your pipes ... that's why I came up with the idea of having a bundle of pipes actually sat well down below the water table running into a fairly big draw off point. The slower the water moves the less it will silt up.
The pipes must sit on a bed of stones as well or you will quickly suck in mud from the bottom of the trench . It is not just a case of covering the pipes in stones.
It has some thing like six rows of 1 mm slits 70 mm long every 100 mm or so along its length .
Those tubes you mention would cost around the same for 60 mtrs perhaps ?? The tubes will also be a heck of a lot heavier than the land drain .
Plus you'd have to pay for your fuel and time etc.
I'd say that you would have to drill that many holes at least 5 mm every 35 mm or so and in inch apart rows all round the pipe in diameter that you'd need to buy two quality hard working power drills to replace the current one you have in mind using .... Also be wary of having too much fast water movement else you'll draw in dissolved / dissolving clay and clog your pipes ... that's why I came up with the idea of having a bundle of pipes actually sat well down below the water table running into a fairly big draw off point. The slower the water moves the less it will silt up.
The pipes must sit on a bed of stones as well or you will quickly suck in mud from the bottom of the trench . It is not just a case of covering the pipes in stones.
