Tool and Cutter Grinder Build

[jordhandson]

You will be please to hear the belt is done and its working a treat. Father had a look at it and said I wasn't heating or melting it enough, as the cut marks where still visible, I thought nothing to loose gave it a good melt and he presto.

 

[jordhandson]

Aluminium anneals with heat which drops off with time or work

Cheers will try harder next time

 

[jordhandson]

My favourite T&C wheel is an aluminium oxide tapered cup wheel. I use it for sharpening milling cutters. TBH it doesn't take long to dress a wheel and you should do even if you swap it on an arbour.

Definitely on my list thanks and not to expensive either.

 

[jordhandson]

If you're going to swap wheels often (likely...) you may want to think about having them on their own wheel hubs e.g. on a taper with a bolt to pull them on, so you don't have to re-dress the wheels every time you change? I'm puzzling what I can do along those lines...

I think what wheels (and how many) you need depends on what you're planning - HSS and carbide need different wheels, f'rinstance, and there's plain, cup, allsorts...

Dave H. (the other one)

Good idea Dave my spindle size I have is for the 22mm bore 100mm diameter wheels, from what I have seen the 150mm wheels all seem to come with a 32mm bore which will allow me to make up some hubs

 

[Pete.]

I don't think I've ever put a 6" wheel on my clarkson. The one on it now is 4".

 

[jordhandson]

Bit of an update from last time, once I had fixed the lathe I realised I could use some of fork tine metal. Between jobs I was getting all the pieces cut, I cut a piece 80mm square by 50mm thick, that would turn down to the 75mm base for the tool head stand,

I then cut the 50mm in half that would make the top and bottom part,When turning the lumps down I added a recess to aid the swivelling. That will get welded onto the slide clamp.


I then cut a piece 60mm long then cut that in half to give me two 60mm x 60mm x50mm blocks,



these would be for the stand top and the head swivel. Again I cut the top swivel piece in half and turned a recessed to aid the swivel part.

I used some off cut 10mm plate I had, luckily this was 150mm long, so that was the height the stand was going to be. If you add the base and top, it gives me approx 190mm height from base to the centre of tool head. I was aiming to get to centre of the grind wheel height, it is not to critical as the grind wheel can be moved up and down. Once I had the stand upright welded up

 

[jordhandson]

I then milled a nice half round on the end to fit the top section in,

this was to be welded on.

Before welding on the base part I added the scale round the edge, the dividing head came into its own here, amazing bit of kit (cheers pressbrake).

You will have to excuse the photos I think the camera is on it way out, I didn't notice the quality till I unloaded them.
Earlier today I milled an 8mm wide 5mm deep slot in the front rail, that was an experience as the rails are stainless, dam hard stuff,

I then in the right side block, drilled and tapped for a 10mm bolt with the end 5mm of the bolt reduced to fit the slot, this will allow the front bar to slide from side to side yet not twist, once the bolt is fully backed out of the rail slot, this will then allow the front rail to pivot.

I made a clamp fitting to fit the left side this will be the main front rail clamp,

I am amazed at how solid its becoming with all this steel its very rigid.

This is where we are at the moment



Hopefully time permitting, over the weekend I intend to pretty the welds up a bit with the little burr grinder, and if time there are some more scales to do with the indexing head. Now I will then need to find a lump of steel approx 80mm x 110mm to make the tool head I may even have to buy a piece. Its been some early mornings and late nights but its beginning to to take shape nicely.



Cheers



Jord

 

[gaz1]

as yours is based on that design slim its should roughly be the same

 

[Brad93]

Hi Pete, as this is the first time turning ally, I don’t think I am the right person to say whether it was gummy or not, it produced some good swarf,
View attachment 207491
I don’t know if you can tell by that, the finish wasn't to bad,
View attachment 207492
probably the feed was a bit fast, it sanded well. I have only turned steel, and after trying to turn that piece of ram steel, last week, this ally block was like cutting through cheese.
Thinking about it, I did have to clean the insert off a couple of times, so I suppose you could say gummy is a good description. I use this tool and new inserts.
View attachment 207493
When turning it I did find a bit of a hole in the ally block luckily it stopped before the part I needed.
View attachment 207494 View attachment 207495
This happened I think has something to do with the gassing, I will need to see a few more melting videos, to see where I went wrong, probably timing. I have a bigger lump to turn as well,
View attachment 207503
I am hoping there are no holes in it inside, I wont know till I turn it, but heyho still a lot to learn.

Cheers

Jord

You need some positive inserts for aluminium.

 

[Brad93]

I dunno it was just an observation I made once after welding some ally. It had machined ok before I welded it then afterwards was tearing up on the surface. I left it then as it was terrible to machine but went back some time later and it was a lot better - not as good as pre-welding but better than the first attempt afterwards. It was as if the structure hadn't fully settled post-welding.

When you weld aluminium you lose 60% of the strength in the heat affected zone.

Bearing in mind most alloys are heat treated as pressbrake says you’ve likely annealed the part.

Some alloys then age harden post welding and return to about 60% of their original yield strength. I’m rusty now but it’s to do with the magnesium and silicon in the alloy forming their precipitates (a different phase) and altering the crystal lattice. Therefore technical name is Precipitation Hardening.

In 6000 series alloys Al Mg2Si is formed from solution on cooling.

Through quenching and subsequent controlled heating this level of hardening can be controlled.

Obviously aluminium is highly malleable and soft which isn’t ideal in a shearing application like cutting with carbide.

Good book on aluminium is Gene Mathers. Aluminium and it’s alloys.

 

[ronan]

The late John Stevenson who ran homeworkshop.org used to sell a grinding cd. I think his son who runs it now still sells them. May be worth enquiring about them.

A decent helpful bloke John was. I was sad to hear he passed on.

 

[jordhandson]

Not a lot to report on the grinder today, I did get to pretty up the welds a bit I think once it been through the blasting cabinet it will improve things, and will also give the metal a good key for paint. I also got the graduations done top swivel part.



On another subject, Ive been thinking on that stainless shaft I milled yesterday, as my Hss bits really struggled with it, in the end I found a bit that cut the stainless quite well, in a box of bits father brought in from one of his clearances about a year ago, been sat under the bench ever since, so today I was in the box again and I did find some more of the mill bits and some drill bits similar to what I used yesterday, I have brought them home to do some research on them tonight as they look, feel and believe it or not, sound different to my normal bits.
There's not many 7 milling bits and 6 drill bits.

They have on them guehring , which I am assuming Greman,

and on some have what I think is the mitsubishi sign which I assume are chinese.


there are couple like this I don’t know what they are.


Some even have holes in.



Nightmare to photo I had to shoot through a magnifying glass lol.

I will let you know what I find out about them and report back lather, unless you already know. If there any good I will have to try and blag them off father.

 

[jordhandson]

You need some positive inserts for aluminium.

Cheers Brad I will have to look this up.

 

[gaz1]

the holes are for cooling fluid going through them

 

[jordhandson]

the holes are for cooling fluid going through them

EH I will have a look around as they may not be ant good as my Kerany trecker dont have fluid in the head, it on the outside.

 

[Brad93]

Not a lot to report on the grinder today, I did get to pretty up the welds a bit I think once it been through the blasting cabinet it will improve things, and will also give the metal a good key for paint. I also got the graduations done top swivel part.
View attachment 208221 View attachment 208222 View attachment 208223


On another subject, Ive been thinking on that stainless shaft I milled yesterday, as my Hss bits really struggled with it, in the end I found a bit that cut the stainless quite well, in a box of bits father brought in from one of his clearances about a year ago, been sat under the bench ever since, so today I was in the box again and I did find some more of the mill bits and some drill bits similar to what I used yesterday, I have brought them home to do some research on them tonight as they look, feel and believe it or not, sound different to my normal bits.
There's not many 7 milling bits and 6 drill bits.
View attachment 208224
They have on them guehring , which I am assuming Greman,
View attachment 208226
and on some have what I think is the mitsubishi sign which I assume are chinese.
View attachment 208231

there are couple like this I don’t know what they are.
View attachment 208229

Some even have holes in.

View attachment 208227 View attachment 208228

Nightmare to photo I had to shoot through a magnifying glass lol.

I will let you know what I find out about them and report back lather, unless you already know. If there any good I will have to try and blag them off father.

Mitsubishi are Japanese.
Any of their tools should be high quality.

 

[pressbrake1]

EH I will have a look around as they may not be ant good as my Kerany trecker dont have fluid in the head, it on the outside.

Don’t worry you’re not doing milling at 15000rpm

 

[Brad93]

Not a lot to report on the grinder today, I did get to pretty up the welds a bit I think once it been through the blasting cabinet it will improve things, and will also give the metal a good key for paint. I also got the graduations done top swivel part.
View attachment 208221 View attachment 208222 View attachment 208223


On another subject, Ive been thinking on that stainless shaft I milled yesterday, as my Hss bits really struggled with it, in the end I found a bit that cut the stainless quite well, in a box of bits father brought in from one of his clearances about a year ago, been sat under the bench ever since, so today I was in the box again and I did find some more of the mill bits and some drill bits similar to what I used yesterday, I have brought them home to do some research on them tonight as they look, feel and believe it or not, sound different to my normal bits.
There's not many 7 milling bits and 6 drill bits.
View attachment 208224
They have on them guehring , which I am assuming Greman,
View attachment 208226
and on some have what I think is the mitsubishi sign which I assume are chinese.
View attachment 208231

there are couple like this I don’t know what they are.
View attachment 208229

Some even have holes in.

View attachment 208227 View attachment 208228

Nightmare to photo I had to shoot through a magnifying glass lol.

I will let you know what I find out about them and report back lather, unless you already know. If there any good I will have to try and blag them off father.

Mitsubishi are Japanese.
Any of their tools should be high quality.

 

[Brad93]

Cheers Brad I will have to look this up.

https://m.cutwel.co.uk/lathe-tools/...-inserts/cn-carbide-turning-inserts-h01-grade

I don’t know what inserts you’re using but you need H01 grade.

 

[jordhandson]

OMG what a result. I been doing some reaserch on these bits first looked for Guehring bits found them on the Guehring the tool company then found on the net the Mitsubishi SSA drill bits there all carbide drills pretty high end stuff. I will have to definitely blag them off father and only use them for special drilling and milling jobs

Ive down loaded the Mitsubishi SSA drill bit Cutting Condition and I think I have found the drill that will drill those bead roller dies I hardened.

Still looking for this one though is it for milling or drilling