How do your Dahlander and VFD with 380v output get on? The motor profiles are obv seen differently by the drive, do you run on one winding or are able to switch and it plays nice? I turned away from that solution because I have an HBM, a pedestal grinder and an Arboga drill with two speed Dahlander wound motors. I settled on using a big autotransformer feeding a much larger capacity 3 phase inverter across two legs. It was cheaper for me but I am very curious to know how the 230>380 offerings work.
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
I bought the 380V output VFD for my Arboga drill but I haven't tried it yet, too tied up with other things. Ask me in a couple of weeks and hopefully I'll have it running. The drill runs fine on a 220V output VFD but seems a little underpowered at times, hence this upgrade.
cheb
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I've a similar problem with a genuine Makita LXT battery. Knock off batteries will run all the tools but the Makita battery will only run two pin tools unless it's not fully pushed in. My solution so far is tape to hold it in place when I'm using it. I'll poke about and try to fix it one day.
Ahh! I have probably, possibly already asked you, or not in a previous mention of the subject. I wont ask, I will look out for your posts.
Kram
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I would suggest not modifying batteries... Just use the clone batteries as intended with their charger.
Good chance of fire if you get batteries wrong. The clone chargers are slow. You dont know that the cells are suitable for fast charging and may overheat.
Did you try the drill? I am after a better drill so thought I'd try this for £20. It seems the chucks are the weak point on clone drills so perhaps I should get a genuine one but I will see if its any good.
Anyway its listed as 13mm chuck and arrived with a 3/8". Theres a huge gap between the chuck and the drill body but that can be seen in the listing pictures. I might return it. The motor is brushless and seems good.
A friend wants help with her fence thats falling down, and my digital level recently was broken so I have ordered this one for tomorrow morning.
Memmeddu
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It's impossible to work with those batteries they take ages to charge (5 hours roughly)
Original Makita chargers have cell balancing and temperature control, real protection sistems and a cooling fan.
The PCB allows to use Makita chargers, or their clones wich deliver 3A maximum output.
No unfortunately it didn't arrived yet it should be out for delivery on tomorrow.
I've thought about the chuck and I'm kinda wondering about using something like a Rohm supra or Metabo futuro top chuck anyways an Albrecht style chuck on it.
Keyless, heavy duty, nice to see .
Unfortunately your Link doesn't work for me can you upload a screenshot?
I'd return it back or keep it for the CQB situations, I think to have understood what drill you're talking about and it's overall really compact if I'm correct.
Nowdays I think we can get pretty good stuff for little money because there's a constant evolution on those things.
5 years ago I've got my brushless Parkside for 60 euro and it's probably the best drill for the price I've ever used in my entire life, not extremely durable because I've always felt it wouldn't withstand a 2 meters drop but it's a great little drill.
Now I'm anxious to try the onevan to see if it's actually any good.
I'll teardown it as same as I did with the others I've reviewed lately on the forum.
As same Link doesn't show anything because my country, may you upload a picture?
My brother recently got one that does the 2 Axis as everyone else but it can draw a web , set angles, arches can remember where he got it, not branded but not cheap either I think I was over 100 euro but well spent he states
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Nice Charity Shop in Christchurch.
Fire alarm issues, again.
Parked round the back, finished the job.
Got a Mini, wooden tap a rusty, a Land Rover and a Bleeding kit.
Fire alarm issues, again.
Parked round the back, finished the job.
Got a Mini, wooden tap a rusty, a Land Rover and a Bleeding kit.
Kram
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@Memmeddu this link may work?
The level has another OLED style screen but the contrast is very good and screen updates fast the other one was only about twice a second. I hope it lasts well. The case is fully plastic, strong magnet only on the bottom and no V groove. I just realised it also has no laser, but I never found them much use anyway.
I was wrong about the chuck
It is written 3/8- 24 UNF, ofcourse thats the mounting thread. Further round it shows 2-13mm. It does feel very plastic though.
I now have two clone 4Ah and one 2Ah. They will charge quicker than I can use them..
The level has another OLED style screen but the contrast is very good and screen updates fast the other one was only about twice a second. I hope it lasts well. The case is fully plastic, strong magnet only on the bottom and no V groove. I just realised it also has no laser, but I never found them much use anyway.
I was wrong about the chuck
It is written 3/8- 24 UNF, ofcourse thats the mounting thread. Further round it shows 2-13mm. It does feel very plastic though.Even so, I would not modify or reuse the cells from a clone one. Keep them charged as a backup and buy some genuine batteries, or adaptors from some other brand. The small saving is not worth the fire risk.
I now have two clone 4Ah and one 2Ah. They will charge quicker than I can use them..
Dr.Al
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Rubbish photo in bad light, but a box with some wire in and a load of insulating fire bricks, all stacked in the dining room due to lack of space elsewhere:
Another major landmark on the way to getting all the bits for my heat treatment oven build. I ordered way more bricks than I think I'll need - partly to have some spares in case of inevitable visits by the C**k-Up Fairy, but also because I'm planning to have a detachable control cabinet for the oven and I might decide to make more than one (different size) chamber.
I should probably write some of this stuff up in the heat treatment oven build thread sometime soon...
Another major landmark on the way to getting all the bits for my heat treatment oven build. I ordered way more bricks than I think I'll need - partly to have some spares in case of inevitable visits by the C**k-Up Fairy, but also because I'm planning to have a detachable control cabinet for the oven and I might decide to make more than one (different size) chamber.
I should probably write some of this stuff up in the heat treatment oven build thread sometime soon...
Memmeddu
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Off course it does
Seems pretty useful and your description of it made me think about getting one myself.
I'd need the V groove though.
Because I'd use it for metal fabrication and it would be useful for pipes an angle iron.
Not the one I was thinking about but this one
I hardly believe it has 65Nm of torque TBH.I was wrong about the chuck
Anyways I think that you might find a 13mm chuck for it.
10mm can do a lot of work, we used to have only these not so long ago (15 years ago)
We all used 10mm cordless drills.
The original idea was to get genuine batteries and charger but I have 5 of those packs and they are wasted otherwise as I don't have the time to charge them.
I want to have always an eye on batteries while charging anyways.
They use pretty dangerous cells.
I'm also going to get ammo box to store them in conjunction with a kevlar bag for this reason.
I'm not a fun of out of eyesight stored lithium batteries.
They can burn through steel.
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For screwing in cup hooks.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Got home to this.
This is what was in the bags.
This is what was in the bags.
Blobber
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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For wingnuts.Along with the Christmas tat in Aldi I managed to find a these, nice selection of security bits, probably made of cheese but a good get you out of trouble selection in a decent case
View attachment 476044
Not sure what this bit is for though
View attachment 476045
Dr.Al
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I decided to bite the hinge and get some bigger bullets...
Insulating fire bricks for scale
The smaller bullet hinges will probably still be useful: rather than being sensible and buying a "project box" for the control cabinet for the heat treatment oven, I'm currently planning on making something from scratch. The big hinges will be good for the (relatively heavy) chamber door, but the control cabinet door is likely to be a lot lighter and so I can use the little ones.
Insulating fire bricks for scale
The smaller bullet hinges will probably still be useful: rather than being sensible and buying a "project box" for the control cabinet for the heat treatment oven, I'm currently planning on making something from scratch. The big hinges will be good for the (relatively heavy) chamber door, but the control cabinet door is likely to be a lot lighter and so I can use the little ones.
