Jlg
Member
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- 2,586
- Location
- Cumbria
That’s what I thought as well my last one was wrapped in the brown anti rust paper stuff I just assumed it was cost cutting putting it in a bag with a little bit of the paper
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,473
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Mid torque impact
Another Makita clone 50 Euro
Choose this one because specs are enough legit little bit below its Makita counterpart.
Same shape of the one you find that claim 1800 Nm.
This one is more inline with the original at 700Nm.
I've ordered the bare unit
I already have the 350Nm one which kinda works fine just like the Parkside brushed one.
Just wanted something stronger just in case.
3/4" drive in future
Another Makita clone 50 Euro
Choose this one because specs are enough legit little bit below its Makita counterpart.
Same shape of the one you find that claim 1800 Nm.
This one is more inline with the original at 700Nm.
I've ordered the bare unit
I already have the 350Nm one which kinda works fine just like the Parkside brushed one.
Just wanted something stronger just in case.
3/4" drive in future
MetalMonkey
Member
- Messages
- 3,335
- Location
- UK
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Having had my diesel heater powered by a battery and Smart Charger for two full years , today I discovered the battery is as dry as a camels foot and being a sealed LA battery no easy way of topping it up with distillate . currently I've got the heater running on a battery off my old powered wheelchairs and put it on its charger as well .
Over the months talking with Fizzy when at his workshop I found he uses battery eliminator PSU that can deliver 12volts at a hefty start up current of 35 Chinese amps (
) Now we have had a major mains supply upgrade for our area I decided it was time to follow Fizzy and get the battery eliminator as it is about £15 cheaper than a new battery, as I'll not likely be working in the mancupboard if there is a sustained power cut in colder weather .
So a few minutes ago I pressed " Buy now ! " ..it should be here within three days .
Over the months talking with Fizzy when at his workshop I found he uses battery eliminator PSU that can deliver 12volts at a hefty start up current of 35 Chinese amps (
) Now we have had a major mains supply upgrade for our area I decided it was time to follow Fizzy and get the battery eliminator as it is about £15 cheaper than a new battery, as I'll not likely be working in the mancupboard if there is a sustained power cut in colder weather .So a few minutes ago I pressed " Buy now ! " ..it should be here within three days .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,291
- Location
- Going Away.
Nice little stop in a shop today, got some nice stuff.
I need to look into this, but it looks like a fun item.
A steam powered saw, a tin plate steam powdered Windmill.
Something to power them.
If that does not work, this will.
I need to look into this, but it looks like a fun item.
A steam powered saw, a tin plate steam powdered Windmill.
Something to power them.
If that does not work, this will.
I got an identical breaker bar off Temu ( I know..) sent by sea freight it took a while to arrive, but looks reasonable for a similar price. If it needs more power, I do have a 1m long 3/4" bar, which cost 20x as much. For everything else, there is the oxy cutter.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
D
Proper breaker bars are 3/4 or inch bars using a high grade 3/4 or inch short "T's", six or 12 inch extension with the tommy bar & high grade hex sockets as used in impact drivers , stepped down to 1/2 inch if needed but 3/4 & 1 inch are best Sit the extension & tommy bar on a trolley jack at the right height to get it parallel to the ground , apply a bit of pressure to the bar and smartly smack the bar close to the T to shock break the torque .
I've never had one fail ever save for when some **$& put a 1& 1.2 " dia wheel stud with a left thread in a right hand wheel hub ...... I sheared it off
Do you know why they are called breaker bars .. they break at then knuckle at the first bit of decent pressure . proper name is a " Swingle bar " or nut spinner
Proper breaker bars are 3/4 or inch bars using a high grade 3/4 or inch short "T's", six or 12 inch extension with the tommy bar & high grade hex sockets as used in impact drivers , stepped down to 1/2 inch if needed but 3/4 & 1 inch are best Sit the extension & tommy bar on a trolley jack at the right height to get it parallel to the ground , apply a bit of pressure to the bar and smartly smack the bar close to the T to shock break the torque .
I've never had one fail ever save for when some **$& put a 1& 1.2 " dia wheel stud with a left thread in a right hand wheel hub ...... I sheared it off
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Craig-SM
Member
- Messages
- 2,098
- Location
- Heckmondwike
How are you finding the tool chest now? I’ve seen they’re in the Black Friday sales and very tempted.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 8,047
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
I always knew them as a knuckle bar.
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,259
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Perfect for my needs!
It is not my 'daily' toolbox, I use it more for lathe and milling tooling.
Some of the items are pretty heavy and the box copes with it well.
Example of some of the stuff I have in my box.
I have not regretted buying the box, so if there is a Black Friday deal on it, go for it!
Craig-SM
Member
- Messages
- 2,098
- Location
- Heckmondwike
Just back from getting one, £540 inc VAT, hopefully I can recoup some of that when I sell on my Clarke Tool cabinet and chest that I’d out grown.
You’re not wrong about the weight, lucky a staff member was able to assist though otherwise I might have looked like one of those idiots trying to get a sofa into small car that I usually chuckle at.
Smouser
Member
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- 1,259
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
badabec
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,370
- Location
- Essex UK
Keep it, you'll soon need it...
