Sunbeam S7 Deluxe

[Shox Dr]

Little up date. Didnt get 10yds before the backend was whinning again. And yes you guessed it it was the only bearing I didn’t replace

In my defence it was checked for radial and axial play. Non found. However if you shake it you can hear the balls are loose in one of the races (its twin race deep grove thrust). Just goes to show how much thrust is applied from the worm screw.
Ordered one yesterday arrived today. Washed the transit grease off it and it was full of swarf.
Took it back they agreed it was not ‘new’. Suppliers adamant it was checked and IS new, but as a gesture of goodwill, blarblar BS they will send out another for monday. 100quid as well

Meanwhile I’ve been busy converting a brake hose into an oil feed to a handle mounted oil pressure guage. I like how its turned out. I have only cross drilled the lower brass ‘sender’ to get a feed to the hose.


...the start of two thumbwheel screws for the spark plug cover. The originals decided to exit nearside verge somewhere.

 

[Shox Dr]

The phenolic discs are the centres from the carb spacers. Slight dome put on with a radius tool

 

[Shox Dr]

While I’m in the mood. I made a new HT clamp. Needs to be offset to clear the casting, so the clamping half is weak. A bit of steel banding makes a nice spring steel washer. I punched the hole, to intentionally dish the steel; works well even finger tight you cant back it off.

 

[Shox Dr]

Nice little bimble this afternoon and another after tea.

 

[Migmac]

Nice little bimble this afternoon and another after tea.

View attachment 246874

It lives

 

[ronan]

Nice little bimble this afternoon and another after tea.

View attachment 246874

Great, glad you got it sorted. Whats that big shiny orange thing up in the sky in the corner of your picture ?

 

[Shox Dr]

It does indeed. Starts well, will be better once I learn it’s idiosyncrasies. Good oil pressure using 20/50 @40psi while under power. Down to @10psi Idling when hot. Reading is taken from the gallery to the cam and rockers so plenty ticking over. Besides I’m not one for leaving an engine idle so not a concern.
Interesting suspension that irons out the road ahead, even when the front wheel goes air borne on a bit of a bump
Alls good with relaxed but firm grip on the bars, just let the bike sort itself out. Still the front is next on the list; there is ZERO compression damping. Guess what Im doing tomorrow. I want to go to the Yorkshire Pudding Rally on it

 

[ronan]

It does indeed. Starts well, will be better once I learn it’s idiosyncrasies. Good oil pressure using 20/50 @40psi while under power. Down to @10psi Idling when hot. Reading is taken from the gallery to the cam and rockers so plenty ticking over. Besides I’m not one for leaving an engine idle so not a concern.
Interesting suspension that irons out the road ahead, even when the front wheel goes air borne on a bit of a bump
Alls good with relaxed but firm grip on the bars, just let the bike sort itself out. Still the front is next on the list; there is ZERO compression damping. Guess what Im doing tomorrow. I want to go to the Yorkshire Pudding Rally on it

Don't forget to take loads of snaps at it and up them here !

 

[Shox Dr]

Don't forget to take loads of snaps at it and up them here !

I’ll try, always forget. Plus I might be a tad Wobbly.

 

[Migmac]

Should be some interesting photos then

 

[Shox Dr]

Still faffin wiv the carb. Its popping with a little backfiring under load. Might have to tweak the timing.

 

[Shox Dr]

Engine vibration on the first S7 was so bad the African Police refused to ride them. This was addressed on the S7 Delux with a Rubber bumper called a Snubber. Fitted either side of the engine low front. Gap is 20thou. They wear out, necessitating removal of the engine and g/box. A bit of a pain.

I’ll cut the old ones off. Hopefully I’ll find some 7/16BSF x2" grub screws (anyone) otherwise I’ll slot some threaded rod, to screw into the cup.


Did I mention I not buying any.
First off machine up a new cup from 316L. I used a hole saw to rebate, it wasnt happy. Next time I’ll cut all but 3 teeth off. (Sorry no pic of that)


Intentionally left to give the epoxy something to stick to.
Next up is the mould. God knows what grade it is.

Cleaned up in the end.

Knock the edges down, and a light coat of bees wax




Happy Dayz

 

[Shox Dr]

Test fit. The flange should of been milled for spanner flats. But I parted it off the stock before remembering my Stevenson Hex block is not big enough to hold 28.6mm. It’s 2mm too long as well.

Never the less you get the idea. I’ll remake 2 cups and search for grub screws, you never know. Other wise I’ll cut a machine screw down and put flats on the end. The other end will be glued to the Snubber Cup.


Resin is PU 90 Shore. From the Layrub bushes I cast I think 70 Shore would be a better choice for both applications.
Need Black die as well

 

[ronan]

Thats some good work Shox.dr. I was able to get in arms length of the BSA for the first time in a long time yesterday, to have a look and see what i will be doing next. I was thinking of you working on the s7. I need to get a move on.

 

[Shox Dr]

Cheers, glad to hear it’s giving you inspiration

 

[Shox Dr]

Out of sync. I made a hub puller for the rear drive. To split the axle is fitted from the offside, acting as a stop for a threaded bar. Using the large machined nut preload can be easily worked out. The end casing has a flange the shims sit on, I had no way of measuring this with std kit so stuck it in the lathe and used the DRO. Worked a treat. (Sorry forgot pics.
The large bar keys into the brake cam. The other end uses the brake adjuster threads.

 

[Shox Dr]

Time to check a few things; valve clearances, cam chain Tension, Cylinder head nuts etc. Its also not running very well, mainly down to the carb, so I’ve caved in and bought a Mikuni VM24 clone from India.

While the weather is pants and waiting for the carb to turn up I might as well strip and clean the Lucas Distributor.Had a quick look while rebuilding the engine, noted the Advance and Retard counter weight pivot pins were worn.

Best set the back pot to TDC Before I take the dizzy off. Finding TDC was a lot easier with the addition of yellow paint on the fly wheel and the pointer I fitted


I did think about servicing it then, but the cross pin holding the drive dog on was so tight I couldn't get it out, so left it....Time to have a look. I ended up drilling out the pin and reaming to the next size of silver steel I had at 4mm. Holding the drive dog to be able to drill out the pin was a head scratcher, until I had a root... An old mtb brake clamp fits. That solved the problem of holding in the vice, next was alining the pin, fortunately it was inline with the cam drive dog tang. Using the drive dog tang (12o’clock) and a bit of parallax error [the shaft it sits on is about 20mm behind the drive dog tang made relatively easy it to eyeball in.




It worked the dog slid straight off the Distributor shaft
A better look at the wear on the counter weight pins.

I’ll need to replace these and bush the counter weights. Parts for these are far and few between. Time to fire up the lathe

 

[octo0072000]

You whacked your finger again dave

 

[Shox Dr]

You whacked your finger again dave

Yeah, tried to chop it off with the axe

 

[Migmac]

You’ll know this bike inside out.

Grinder got me