Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[dieselsamurai]

A couple of extra bits for the home-made woodturning lathe:

View attachment 489116

The thing on the left is for setting outside calipers to various different diameters to match the ideal sizes (those that form a perfect circle) of the different metal jaws I have. The thing on the left with the magnets glued into the back goes on the head stock and provides a temporary storage space for the chuck key and a 4 mm t-handle Allen key:

View attachment 489117

Thats great idea I may be making a version of both of those soon !

 

[daedalusminos]

Currently 2/3 the way through a 20hr print for the Low Rider V4 - a summer project.



The same part partially assembled for the other side...

 

[Onoff]

Putting some black ash effect, uPVC cladding boards on the ends of my sliding gate. Needed some end caps. My lad drew them up and printed 1mm wall shaped U sections in black PETG. They'll get stuck on with a blob of something:

https://flic.kr/p/2qTAeax

https://flic.kr/p/2qTzwhU

https://flic.kr/p/2qTAcDS

 

[MattF]

Question. For numpties, what's an easy to use software for designing stuff for 3D printers? I've never done any design of my own as yet. About time I learned.

 

[Dr.Al]

Question. For numpties, what's an easy to use software for designing stuff for 3D printers? I've never done any design of my own as yet. About time I learned.

I find Onshape the easiest free option. Tinkercad is arguably easier, but you'll quickly find it quite limited. Some people like Sketchup but again it's quite limited for engineering design type applications.

There are lots of other options out there, including Fusion, which lots of people recommend but I find far less intuitive than Onshape, Solidworks or Solid Edge Community Edition. A lot of it will depend on what "clicks" with your way of thinking. The so-called "Synchronous" modelling mode of Solid Edge CE is something that I've heard users of things like Sketchup and Designspark Mechanical find a bit easier to pick up than "traditional methods" used in Onshape, Solidworks or (said with a wince), Fusion. I like Solid Edge, but I tend to use Ordered mode (and I much prefer Onshape or Solidworks anyway).

Whichever one you choose, the only way you'll really master it is lots of practice. That said, there are loads of good tutorials around for any of the ones listed above.

This short video gives a quick overview of the difference between "Ordered" mode (traditional style) and "Synchronous" mode in Solid Edge:

This video series is supposed to be quite good (for Onshape), although the tutorials provided by Onshape themselves are also excellent:

 

[MattF]

Cheers.

 

[Dev]

Currently 2/3 the way through a 20hr print for the Low Rider V4 - a summer project.

Nice one. I’ve been really enjoying mine. Cut the plates for it on my LR3, signing its own death warrant

 

[galooph]

Quick question for those of you with resin printers, what type of paint do you recommend for spraying prints?

I've got some parts printed in utr8360 that I need to paint up.

 

[daedalusminos]

Quick question for those of you with resin printers, what type of paint do you recommend for spraying prints?

I've got some parts printed in utr8360 that I need to paint up.

I'm not familiar with that resin, but I just use automotive acrylic aerosol paints for these knobs....plastic primer, base then clear lacquer...

 

[daedalusminos]

Nice one. I’ve been really enjoying mine. Cut the plates for it on my LR3, signing its own death warrant

View attachment 489653

Nice! Is that a ull sheet size? I like your minimalist frame plonk it on a table design.

Are they stainless rails - where did you get them from?

Just completed the 30 hour core print...

 

[Dev]

Yeah full sheet - don’t know why I’m sure I’ll probably never use it all. The X rails are 32mm stainless 1.5mm - I just went to the local stainless distributer with a single Y clip of each size and that stuff was listed as 1 5/8 inch I think but fits 32mm clips perfectly.

The Y rail is 32mm wardrobe rail from B&Q - I figured it wasn’t contributing to rigidity so no need to use the dear stuff . Strut plates are 3mm Ali chequerplate. On a Unistrut table frame. I need to organise delivery of a couple of sheets of OSB for spoil board but it’s hard when most yards only deliver during the week when I have to put the hours in at the day job instead of being happy in the shed. 1st world problems.

 

[bigegg]

Quick question for those of you with resin printers, what type of paint do you recommend for spraying prints?

I've got some parts printed in utr8360 that I need to paint up.

Post in thread 'Stuff your 3D printer has made today...'

Apr 3, 2022

What paint do you use. Grandson wants multicoloured prints. Lol. Paint is much cheaper and he can do that himself.. just need to get him off his phone as much as possible now.

Acrylics.

Artiste and artstudio from "the range", plus some from Lidl and Aldi.
I also have a few more expensive ones from Hobbycraft/the works (which I inherited, not bought).


Home bargains meths + water as thinner. (Meths stops the water extending drying time)

B&m bargain "turner+grey" aerosol "grey primer" as undercoat.

I also have the odd bottle of "daler+Rowney" inks (also...

• bigegg

• 

 

[My Old Landy]

This was on maker world, handy for prototyping on an Uno. Two hour print on the P1S.

 

[mtt.tr]

I want an audio adapter for my helmet intercom, I use in ear headphones and a wired mic.

I have tried various options, they are mostly to fragile to last more than a few thousand miles, so my solution is to make an injection molded part.

Here Is the idea


Here is the test run without components





Just waiting on a few parts and urethane rubber.

 

[Onoff]

That's annoying!

SWMBO wanted a Lidl cordless pressure washer. No problem I said, we'll run it off Makita batteries. Trouble is I couldn't find the previous adapter we'd printed some time ago.

Got my lad to print another in black PETG on the X1C. Salvaged some connectors from a couple of dead, clone Makita batteries etc. Next step to make some copper blades to attach to the Makita battery and solder those and a resistor to the Makita (Fakita) connectors.

The adapter on a Parkside heat gun:

The Fakita terminals in the print:

Except...

The back of the adaptor hits the pressure washer before it engages:

An easy fix IF I could find the AutoCAD model I created. Can I ???

 

[dieselsamurai]

Theres quite a few on thingyverse you may be able to modify

Makita LXT 18V battery to Parkside x20 tool adapter by Ninekill

Makita LXT 18V battery to Parkside x20 tool adapter. If you include a locking part and then screw together top and bottom parts the adapter is fixed to the tool. Makita battery is always detachable.Bottom part uses original Makita terminal part no. 643874-2 (4€). Wires have to be soldered to the...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Onoff]

Theres quite a few on thingyverse you may be able to modify

Makita LXT 18V battery to Parkside x20 tool adapter by Ninekill

Makita LXT 18V battery to Parkside x20 tool adapter. If you include a locking part and then screw together top and bottom parts the adapter is fixed to the tool. Makita battery is always detachable.Bottom part uses original Makita terminal part no. 643874-2 (4€). Wires have to be soldered to the...

www.thingiverse.com

I'll have you know I did mine from scratch!

 

[Bki26]

An easy fix IF I could find the AutoCAD model I created. Can I ???

Could you not just use a negative space modifier or cut that part off the model in the printer slicer? Probably pretty quick to do.

 

[Onoff]

Could you not just use a negative space modifier or cut that part off the model in the printer slicer? Probably pretty quick to do.

? Just found the .dwg file! Modded in AutoCAD. Converted to an .STL. just waiting for my lad to surface and print it.

 

[Onoff]

DOH! Not enough: