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RaceDiagnostics
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This fan was blasted and then given a blow over by the blasters a few years ago but the paint job was minimal.
Oxidising all over. After a scrub with a scotch pad.
Primed on both sides, pita.
Painted on the first side and waiting for it to dry off a bit before doing the other side. Lots of pitting on this side.
Other side.
Oxidising all over. After a scrub with a scotch pad.
Primed on both sides, pita.
Painted on the first side and waiting for it to dry off a bit before doing the other side. Lots of pitting on this side.
Other side.
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Well learnt a valuable lesson that 1960's camper fiberglass is not the same as 1960's boat fiberglass...
Used a strip disc to get rid of the old paint and it just cut groves into the Gel coat. but a bit of filling and some repairs and turned out ok
If I can get to warm enough tomorrow will get in into DTG topcoat.
Used a strip disc to get rid of the old paint and it just cut groves into the Gel coat. but a bit of filling and some repairs and turned out ok
If I can get to warm enough tomorrow will get in into DTG topcoat.
Why do you never listen to that voice in your head. "it's cold outside you are a Muppet at painting lay them down and paint" but.... if I hang them up I can do all 3 in one go
I now know why some professional do a practice sweep of the gun movement before spraying. If I had done that, I would have not caught the paint cup on the string holding the support rod and stopped me dead causing a lovely run. oh well more practice with the the Mirka shark blade for shaving runs for me
I now know why some professional do a practice sweep of the gun movement before spraying. If I had done that, I would have not caught the paint cup on the string holding the support rod and stopped me dead causing a lovely run. oh well more practice with the the Mirka shark blade for shaving runs for me
Just some more D2G work
I know consistency comes with experience but, I would not mind if I was consistently bad or Ok ish but I can go from I'm really happy with that finish to heavy orange peal. would not mind if that was a different panel but the 2 images are 10cm apart ie one pass apart.
I know consistency comes with experience but, I would not mind if I was consistently bad or Ok ish but I can go from I'm really happy with that finish to heavy orange peal. would not mind if that was a different panel but the 2 images are 10cm apart ie one pass apart.
Well it was time for COB, grab coat went on fine then the second full coat and...
But why are you sanding off the very expensive basecoat you just applied this morning 
Loads of sand scratchs, my other half prepped the doors and yes she used guide coat and a DA. At least the black acts as its own guide coat.
and around we go again.
The other doors came out ok. little more dust than I would have liked and peel is acceptable for my skill level.
more of the same tomorrow hopefully without the sanding.
Loads of sand scratchs, my other half prepped the doors and yes she used guide coat and a DA. At least the black acts as its own guide coat.
and around we go again.
The other doors came out ok. little more dust than I would have liked and peel is acceptable for my skill level.
more of the same tomorrow hopefully without the sanding.
ajlelectronics
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If you have orange peel, increase the pressure or add more thinners.
I am running my gun at max 2.5 bar as per the TDD and was at 20% on the thinner max allowed on the TDD only option is to increase or decrease flow? or can I push more thinners
ajlelectronics
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The reason you have orange peel is lack of atomisation or the paint is going off too quickly, ie it hasn't had time to flow out.
What gun and nozzle are you using?
What speed of hardener and thinners are you using?
What temperature is everything at?
cannot really catch the peal in an photo
if you zoom into the door you can see a slight rippling
ajlelectronics
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Probably down to the hardener I would say. At 25C it would be tacking off quite quickly. However you are stuck with it now! I would be using standard hardener and universal thinners at those temperatures.
Not a big problem anyway as you can soon knock it back, although you could legitimately claim that you were trying to emulate a modern factory finish.
Not a big problem anyway as you can soon knock it back, although you could legitimately claim that you were trying to emulate a modern factory finish.
would you recommend not using the infrared untill after it has flashed?Probably down to the hardener I would say. At 25C it would be tacking off quite quickly. However you are stuck with it now! I would be using standard hardener and universal thinners at those temperatures.
Not a big problem anyway as you can soon knock it back, although you could legitimately claim that you were trying to emulate a modern factory finish.
ajlelectronics
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That is likely to help as it gives the film time to flow out.
charlysays
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Rebuilt the front suspension on my Merc. Whilst it was apart I degreased then derusted all the bits occupied by the suspension. Slowly getting round to restoring and painting the whole underside and wheel arches with Jotamastic 90 alu winter grade.
Had to weld a small plate on the top of one spring perch but other than that it was rock solid.
Prep consisted of thorough degrease with surfex hd and a hose pipe, needle gun everything to death, straight bristle wire wheel at low rpm, then DA and hand sand bare metal at 80g and existing coatings at 180grit.
Then two coats of Jotun, sikaflex ebt in the seams, then one more coat of jotamastic on the seams and anywhere else I fancied.
Took about 3 days to be hard enough to reassemble with new arms etc.
Had to weld a small plate on the top of one spring perch but other than that it was rock solid.
Prep consisted of thorough degrease with surfex hd and a hose pipe, needle gun everything to death, straight bristle wire wheel at low rpm, then DA and hand sand bare metal at 80g and existing coatings at 180grit.
Then two coats of Jotun, sikaflex ebt in the seams, then one more coat of jotamastic on the seams and anywhere else I fancied.
Took about 3 days to be hard enough to reassemble with new arms etc.
