your handy at both the prep and the spray gun,
what type of blaster and compressor do you use for these small parts, have similar jobs to do to a few bonnets........
- Thread starter Dcal
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your handy at both the prep and the spray gun,
what type of blaster and compressor do you use for these small parts, have similar jobs to do to a few bonnets........
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
I use a cheap cabinet and pressure pot but with lots of mods.
Best mod for the blast pot is a 3mm tungsten carbide nozzle and a proper media valve.
Best mod for the cabinet is better extraction and light.
For small parts a 3hp compressor will manage at a push, but if I've lots to do I run two 3hp compressors which is ok for a 3mm nozzle.
Couple of threads on some of the mods I and others (mainly @brightspark ) have carried out on pots and cabinets below.
There are lots more similar threads on here that are worth a read.
Best mod for the blast pot is a 3mm tungsten carbide nozzle and a proper media valve.
Best mod for the cabinet is better extraction and light.
For small parts a 3hp compressor will manage at a push, but if I've lots to do I run two 3hp compressors which is ok for a 3mm nozzle.
Couple of threads on some of the mods I and others (mainly @brightspark ) have carried out on pots and cabinets below.
There are lots more similar threads on here that are worth a read.
grit valves for cheap pots
using ball valves to meter the grit is a bit hit and miss and prone to regular blockages :(namely because of its design and iregular grit size it only takes one larger particle to end up in the orifice and everything stops . even the slightest of moisture kills it off . making a flat sand valve...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Cheap Blasting Cabinet and Pressure Pot Upgrades
I bought a blasting cabinet on the forum over 3 years ago and have been using it since. I already had one of the Clarke 10 gal pressure pots so I ended up marrying the two together. They work but not great and have some major flaws so I've been modifying them over the years and thought it was...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Dcal
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- 4,080
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Just blasted and painted some calipers.
I already posted on the "stuff you have fixed thread" so no need to go over it again, but link below for reference.
However, slightly interesting (for me anyway) to see how quickly the blasted parts started showing rust after blasting.
The parts were very heavily corroded and as a result had lots of salts deep into the pits. (The dark rust is a giveaway.)
If salts weren't present the parts would have stayed rust free or at worst just gingered up a bit.
One before and one after blasting
And after being left for four or five hours.
I reblasted and then applied two heavy coats of epoxy primer.
I could / should have used Jotamastic A, but I was in a rush so went with a wet on wet system.
Setup was -
ANI R160-Q spray gun 1.2mm setup about 30psi.
2 coats Selemix 7-413 primer mixed 1000 / 200 / 200 (by weight)
20min between coats, good hour before topcoat.
Followed by 2 coats of Selemix 7-110 top coat.
The salts could have been removed or reduced by washing the parts in water, deionised water, or something like Chlor X. But the calipers weren't really worth painting, let alone spending any more time on.
Be interesting to see how they last but I'd be fairly sure the car will be scrapped before I can tell.
I already posted on the "stuff you have fixed thread" so no need to go over it again, but link below for reference.
Stuff you have fixed today
At MIS we keep old, dead or surplus tools that need restoring, so members can practise on them. Soem even turn up good. Today a new member took on himself to dump the tools. To be told. Wind you neck in. This is an example of how a dead tool can be saved. Yes that is a putty knife. Honest...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
However, slightly interesting (for me anyway) to see how quickly the blasted parts started showing rust after blasting.
The parts were very heavily corroded and as a result had lots of salts deep into the pits. (The dark rust is a giveaway.)
If salts weren't present the parts would have stayed rust free or at worst just gingered up a bit.
One before and one after blasting
And after being left for four or five hours.
I reblasted and then applied two heavy coats of epoxy primer.
I could / should have used Jotamastic A, but I was in a rush so went with a wet on wet system.
Setup was -
ANI R160-Q spray gun 1.2mm setup about 30psi.
2 coats Selemix 7-413 primer mixed 1000 / 200 / 200 (by weight)
20min between coats, good hour before topcoat.
Followed by 2 coats of Selemix 7-110 top coat.
The salts could have been removed or reduced by washing the parts in water, deionised water, or something like Chlor X. But the calipers weren't really worth painting, let alone spending any more time on.
Be interesting to see how they last but I'd be fairly sure the car will be scrapped before I can tell.
Myles1970
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- 929
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Dashboard, painted with a textured aerosol following crack repairs… obviously it will never match the existing grain, but we’ll see how it looks when it’s back in the car….
After flatting out the runs, peel and dust, I took to upgrading my “paint booth” with a overspray extraction system, and a marquee. The above pics are the result…
The top edge of the bumpers colour coded to match the car. I sat them upright to reduce the chances of dust ruining the horizontal surface… I needn’t have bothered. I got 2 runs for my troubles…. who was it said if you’re not getting runs you’re not trying hard enough?
And lastly, because I’d mixed too much paint, I painted the arch flares…
All done with lvlp 1.3mm gun at 22psi… I’m quite pleased with how it’s turned out
Myles1970
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- 929
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- Monaghan, Ireland
More from my “Grp collection”; Bonnet.
Before I started painting I checked the lvlp gun operation with some thinners and it started leaking fluid from the nozzle. So I switched over to the primer gun (hvlp - came with 2.0 1.7 and 1.4 nozzles). So this was done at about 40psi… the results are ok as in I think I can wet flat the peel and the run out. Possibly should have reduced the fluid or moved faster?
Is it straight no. but it is infinitely better than it was.
Myles1970
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- 929
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Today, I have been painting the rear quarters and lamp panel. 2.0mm tip on a cheapie hvlp gun at 40psi. Besa F-294/2 2k zinc phosphate epoxy primer. My original plan was to use the F-286 2k epoxy shop primer as a sealer over bare metal, but upon closer inspection it would seem that the former has more anti-corrosive qualities, even though it’s a high-build. I’ll save the 286 and use it to seal the body filler before top-coating
well the bits that I filled are flat and apart from some pin holes it looks good when you stand straight on
Bit of putty and ready for high build.
Why do you never listen to that little voice in you head that said leave it till it's warmer and when you have more than 2hrs to play with....
was so worried about dust should have worried about my inability to paint! for some reason I changed the way I moved round the bus and paid the price badly
I blame my assistant for this one, could not remember if I had coated the vertical section and they were not sure so coated it again wrong
was so worried about dust should have worried about my inability to paint! for some reason I changed the way I moved round the bus and paid the price badly
I blame my assistant for this one, could not remember if I had coated the vertical section and they were not sure so coated it again wrong
