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Hood
I am obsessed.
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A couple of mackerel stripper boxes. Normally I make them out of 1.5mm stainless but I decided to try 3mm aluminium and bolt on the stainless tubes rather than weld. They are a lot lighter and as the stainless is the part that will wear they should stand up fine.
Blue Chips
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I was sidetracked from 'my' projects for the past week, as Mrs. Blue Chips wanted some kitchen upgrades done, and I'd have to agree that they were needed. We got rid of our old range/cooker, which was a cheap model that was already here when we bought the house, and ordered a new commercial-quality Wolf range. I wanted to replace the old 30-inch range with a 36- or 48-inch range, but our kitchen is not very big, and we need every bit of available cabinet storage and countertop space, so we stayed with a 30-inch size, which is OK, since it's just the two of us in the house and we rarely cook for a large group.
The new range required a vent hood with a minimum 500 cfm rating, so I ordered one that goes up to 680 cfm (321 l/s). To mount the vent hood, I wanted to provide a secure mounting area, which involved removing a section of plasterboard, blocking out the existing studs, and installing 1/2" plywood.
While I was at it, I removed and repaired the existing cabinet to the right of the range hood.
The old range hood was the recirculating type with no ductwork, so I had to install a duct that went up through the attic and out through the roof to a vent cap at the back of the house.
Here's the new range hood mounted on the wall, with a section of stainless duct attached. I already had a piece of stainless steel sheet that happened to be 30 inches wide, so I decided to use that as part of the backsplash for the range (shown partially installed in this photo):
The original cabinet above the old range hood was several inches too tall for the new setup, so I bought some oak planks and made a new open-front cabinet from scratch. I decided to use my biscuit jointer (and some screws) to connect the pieces, rather than my Kreg jigs. I had to experiment a bit to get the stain colour to more-or-less match the existing cabinets. It's not a perfect colour match, but close enough.
To finish the backsplash, I cut some 1/4" x 1/2" stainless bar stock for trim pieces and mounted them with countersunk flat-head screws. I also installed stainless sheet on the sides of the cabinets above the range.
I didn't like the harsh light reflections off the shiny stainless steel, so I used an orbital sander to create a textured surface on the steel. The reflections of the lights are much softer now.
Here's the final vent hood and cabinet setup, with the range temporarily in place. I installed a receptacle in the cabinet for connecting the range hood. Note that I designed the cabinet so that the hood can be easily removed if necessary. I was pleased at how quiet the fan is. My wife wanted the open-front look for the new cabinet above the hood, but if she changes her mind, I can always install doors on it.
The new range isn't useable yet, since we still need to replace the old gas pipe with a larger one. I'm going to have a licensed tech do the gas pipe installation. I could do it myself and have the final connection made by the tech, but I'd rather have them take full responsibility for the gas pipe.
I'm also planning to replace the cabinet pulls, handles, and hinges with stainless hardware to help integrate the cabinets with the stainless steel appliances.
The new range required a vent hood with a minimum 500 cfm rating, so I ordered one that goes up to 680 cfm (321 l/s). To mount the vent hood, I wanted to provide a secure mounting area, which involved removing a section of plasterboard, blocking out the existing studs, and installing 1/2" plywood.
While I was at it, I removed and repaired the existing cabinet to the right of the range hood.
The old range hood was the recirculating type with no ductwork, so I had to install a duct that went up through the attic and out through the roof to a vent cap at the back of the house.
Here's the new range hood mounted on the wall, with a section of stainless duct attached. I already had a piece of stainless steel sheet that happened to be 30 inches wide, so I decided to use that as part of the backsplash for the range (shown partially installed in this photo):
The original cabinet above the old range hood was several inches too tall for the new setup, so I bought some oak planks and made a new open-front cabinet from scratch. I decided to use my biscuit jointer (and some screws) to connect the pieces, rather than my Kreg jigs. I had to experiment a bit to get the stain colour to more-or-less match the existing cabinets. It's not a perfect colour match, but close enough.
To finish the backsplash, I cut some 1/4" x 1/2" stainless bar stock for trim pieces and mounted them with countersunk flat-head screws. I also installed stainless sheet on the sides of the cabinets above the range.
I didn't like the harsh light reflections off the shiny stainless steel, so I used an orbital sander to create a textured surface on the steel. The reflections of the lights are much softer now.
Here's the final vent hood and cabinet setup, with the range temporarily in place. I installed a receptacle in the cabinet for connecting the range hood. Note that I designed the cabinet so that the hood can be easily removed if necessary. I was pleased at how quiet the fan is. My wife wanted the open-front look for the new cabinet above the hood, but if she changes her mind, I can always install doors on it.
The new range isn't useable yet, since we still need to replace the old gas pipe with a larger one. I'm going to have a licensed tech do the gas pipe installation. I could do it myself and have the final connection made by the tech, but I'd rather have them take full responsibility for the gas pipe.
I'm also planning to replace the cabinet pulls, handles, and hinges with stainless hardware to help integrate the cabinets with the stainless steel appliances.
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Memmeddu
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Machine shop job
Flame cut this 20mm plate
So it can be welded on this
Wich I've flame cut as well, clipped the sides and cut the hole.
Already welded.
Tomorrow I'll finish it up and install on a brand new hammer
I'm loving the old British Enfield President torch I've got a year ago roughly.
But the lever is kinda in the way when using the circle cutter tool
Flame cut this 20mm plate
So it can be welded on this
Wich I've flame cut as well, clipped the sides and cut the hole.
Already welded.
Tomorrow I'll finish it up and install on a brand new hammer
I'm loving the old British Enfield President torch I've got a year ago roughly.
But the lever is kinda in the way when using the circle cutter tool
As shown yesterday,here it is hanging. Now,here’s an oddity whilst drilling and chiselling a slot for the latch,20mm in I discovered a piece of folded over iron,I think,from the texture it was wrought,maybe it was a reclaimed stone that had previously held ironmongery as a latch or keep and was simply turned around to hide,nowt wrong there,except 2 weeks ago,cutting new oak “sleepers “,I hit a piece of iron 15mm into my cut,enough to blunt my chain. First for everything,twice in as many weeks.
Memmeddu
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Can’t wait to see the finished product.
Not forgetting that larger gas pipe needs to supply both your boiler/combi and the gas cooker.
Memmeddu
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Black saddle is the finishes product
Brilliant
Blue Chips
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The pipe supplying propane to the range/cooker will be sized to supply more BTUs than the range is capable of, even with all burners full on.
There is a separate pipe from the propane tanks for our outdoor 24kw standby generator.
As far as central heat goes, our current boiler is oil fired, but we may switch to propane later on, in which case we would add a third propane tank and probably a separate pipe for the boiler, due to its location.
We don't have natural gas service at our house, as we're a bit too far out from the more populated part of town for underground natural gas service...maybe in a few years it will get out this far.
Blobber
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How does oil compare to propane price wise over your way?
Blue Chips
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Assuming that I did the maths correctly, here are some figures that I came up with:
Average propane price in Maine is currently about $3.134 per US gallon (roughly 91,500 BTUs per US gallon, or 29,196 BTUs per US dollar). That's approximately £0.62/litre.
Average heating oil price in Maine is currently about $3.28/US gallon (roughly 138,500 BTUs per US gallon, or 42,226 BTUs per US dollar). That's approximately £0.65/litre.
Note: There are often discounts that can reduce the above prices to varying degrees, depending on payment/delivery/account arrangements with a supplier.
The above prices would be for bulk delivery, in which a big truck comes and fills the tanks at one's residence.
Heating oil has higher energy density than propane, which is 'partially' offset by the best propane-fired boilers being a little more efficient than comparable oil-fired boilers. I figure that the actual fuel costs for propane will still be higher than oil, although I believe that propane boilers would be cheaper to service and maintain. It would also be nice to get the big oil tank out of the basement (they are typically placed indoors here due to the cold winters). There's also the convenience factor of having to deal with only one fuel supplier (and one bill) instead of two. So, a little more out of pocket for propane, but nicer.
OJCar
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I've just ordered 500 litres at £0.50.99 per litre (delivered, West Lothian, Scotland).
Blue Chips
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That's a good price.
I quoted the average state-wide propane price in my previous post, but we own our own propane tanks, and we just set up an automatic delivery and payment account with our propane supplier, which qualifies us for some discounts. We recently had 143.1 US gallons delivered at $2.365/US gallon, which worked out to a total of $2.52/US gallon (including hazmat fee and fuel recovery fee), which is about £0.50 per litre...same as your price.
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Dr.Al
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This was actually last week, but I've only just got round to taking photos. First of all, I prepared rather a lot of bowl blanks out of any thick material I had lying around:
The 9 on the right are all Iroku, out of some thick planks I was given by a member of another forum. The other three are (clockwise from bottom left) Cedar of Lebanon, English Walnut and an end cut off something that was sold in Ironbridge antiques as a Mahogany lintel. All cut very roughly round on the bandsaw (roughly because I couldn't be bothered to change to a narrower blade).
I figured with all those blanks on the bench I'd get lots of practice. I'm a great believer in "practice makes permanent", so after all that practice I'd either have mastered bowl turning or the bad habits would be so thoroughly ingrained that I'd never master bowl turning!
Anyway, the first (Iroku) one went miles better than the previous two attempts. The outside surface hardly needed any sanding at all (I started at 120 grit and spent less than 30 seconds on each grit). The inside needed a bit more work (a few minutes with the 80 grit) and it still isn't perfect (I got hungry so decided to just go through the grits and call it done!). Nevertheless, it feels like a big step in the right direction.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Thats a good price, I have an invoice here for £0.54 per litre from 2017, and that was for 1000 litres.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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What is the winter weather like there ? Do you suffer from propane freeze ......... liquid will not turn to gas ?
Memmeddu
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@Tangledfeet became older today
Happy birthday Andrew
Happy birthday Andrew
