I remember a mates Montego with similar holes in all the doors at the same age. Earlier than that, next doors Cortina failing it's first MOT on corrosion.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
RWD3M
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- Wiltshire, UK
Oh yes, now those Montego's!!!
I recall repairing many virtually brand new Montego's around the front and rear screens when I worked in a body shop back in the mid '80's. The story went that the screens were fitted before the paint had had a chance to harden so that when they cleaned off the excess sealant, the plastic scrapers went through the paint! Hence, 6 months later, rust started appearing.
Oh, and don't forget the wheel arches and sills!
Memmeddu
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- Italia Sardegna
Theorycally Polsky steel it belongs from an FSM 126p
qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
for closure, works perfectly. more than enough stroke, remote control works perfectly. it just works. press down, wait for the actuator to start to labour, release nipple, wait for it to labour again. hit stop. close nipple. press up. rinse/repeat.today i started a christmas break project that i've been planning for a while.
because mazda are a pita and have a brake master that you can't put a pressure bleeder onto, i've been meaning to make a one man brake bleeding kit in the form of a remote control brake depressor. it's a simple beasty, just a lot of fab work. the steel stock is all old offcuts i have kicking around from other projects, so cost me nothing.
should work fine as long as the piston has enough stroke to push the pedal all the way down.
Does it get confused as to which pedal is actually the brake (and yes, she did have a driving licence) and what exactly the meaning of "up", "down" and "hold it there until I say so" ?
Kram
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Had a use for plasma today so got some practise. I'm aware its best to be on full power and move as fast as the thickness will allow.
I was using a steel guide against the tip.
On 6mm the lidl plasma was very slow. My first cut I went to fast, had to go back and really messed it up.
Second went better but the dross appeared to be hiding the sparks and making it difficult to judge speed. 3-6mm of dross after.
The 1.2mm went much better although rhe edge was rougher than I'd have liked.
Also found the replacement tips too short, perhaps they can be adapted with a copper shim.
I was using a steel guide against the tip.
On 6mm the lidl plasma was very slow. My first cut I went to fast, had to go back and really messed it up.
Second went better but the dross appeared to be hiding the sparks and making it difficult to judge speed. 3-6mm of dross after.
The 1.2mm went much better although rhe edge was rougher than I'd have liked.
Also found the replacement tips too short, perhaps they can be adapted with a copper shim.
oldbikedavey
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- London, England
Mostly, a useful amount of progress on the sand muller discharge trap arrangements, and some minor inroads into my stock of Guinness West Indies Porter, which has something to do with a rather highly tuned B.31 engine.....
Kram
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- Sussex
oldbikedavey
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- 1,646
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- London, England
Needs some adjustment of the tillage implements one way and another, and maybe some attention to the rise and fall thereof throughout the tillage zone, but it ain't so very shabby even now....
Memmeddu
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- Italia Sardegna
First attempts of body work on my 126p
Right side front bonnet windshield corner
before
Removed the rotten part, flanged using a pair of poligrip pliers
Rust inhibitor on it
cut and shaped a patch.
Welded ground and rust inhibitor
Inner view .
Still have to rebuild the frame part.
Now I'd need advice about the finishing steps.
Should I obviously corse sand the surfaces but
What should I do first
Filler or anti rust paint?
is there anything I can do to fix this?
Is it even worth or should I just fill it up with bondo?
Right side front bonnet windshield corner
Removed the rotten part, flanged using a pair of poligrip pliers
Rust inhibitor on it
Welded ground and rust inhibitor
Inner view .
Still have to rebuild the frame part.
Now I'd need advice about the finishing steps.
Should I obviously corse sand the surfaces but
What should I do first
Filler or anti rust paint?
Is it even worth or should I just fill it up with bondo?
Blobber
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- 3,408
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- lincolnshire
I think filler goes on after primer
sako243
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- My mansion in Wales
Finished the frame for the generator. Reused some feet and drilled some holes in them so I could use them as horizontal braces.
Off to my local friendly trailer manufacturer next to get a roof bent to sit over the top. Then have a think about maybe some doors etc., to cover the sides but still make it accessible.
Off to my local friendly trailer manufacturer next to get a roof bent to sit over the top. Then have a think about maybe some doors etc., to cover the sides but still make it accessible.
Ended the year on a productive note. Finished a "rustic" stool that my OH's mate asked me to make for her:
Turned a 12" diameter platter that's made from pieces of 3"x2" glued together:
And finished off by fitting led tea lights into some decorative tea light holders that I made a while ago from the corner blocks of an old pallet:
Turned a 12" diameter platter that's made from pieces of 3"x2" glued together:
And finished off by fitting led tea lights into some decorative tea light holders that I made a while ago from the corner blocks of an old pallet:
Blue Chips
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To secure my electroplating chemical buckets and help prevent sloshing or spills, I made a second bench top with holes cut in it for the buckets, which slide about 3 inches down into the holes. It's a snug fit, and the buckets seem quite secure now, plus it created space under the new bench top to stow the bucket lids out of the way while I'm plating things. The bench top is MDF, with penetrating urethane varnish on all surfaces, followed by gray Rust-Oleum countertop paint, which should be really durable. I also installed a new temperature controller for the plating bath heater and made new polypropylene felt filter bags for the circulating pump and anodes. I'm planning to start plating parts for my Dodge M37 again tomorrow.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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@Kram see this, what I was on about that you can CNC mill / "engrave" PCBs as in no masking / chemical etching.
@Johnnybravo , sorry to highjack, just shows perfectly something I was speaking with @Kram about.
citizen kane
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Kids got me a Hemingway compact rotary broach kit for Christmas. Not finished yet but thoroughly enjoyed the build process.
Dr.Al
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They're brilliant, I use mine all the time
citizen kane
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- 266
Do you use silver steel for the broaches or have you gone with HSS.
Also, thanks for the three wire thread calculator on your site, very useful for the 20mm by 52 tpi thread.
