Stuff you have made today

[Ton-up]

getting there. Just the ram mounts to do now. Felt crap from 2nd jab today so progress was slow.

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I know you said your’e not finished, but surely its not a good idea to 1) weld a plate thats pulling to the centre of the box and 2) on the side where the weld on the box is?

 

[Munkul]

I know you said your’e not finished, but surely its not a good idea to 1) weld a plate thats pulling to the centre of the box and 2) on the side where the weld on the box is?

The box section is 8mm, it's not a great design from a weight/efficiency point of view but it's also not going anywhere the beam is way bigger and heavier than it needs to be for the weight it will carry, I could have got away with 203 UB with suitable bracing but this 305 UB was here and it meant less bracing required, and a naturally deeper pivot which lowers the moment. SWL will be 500kg at the end and 800kg at the midpoint, and it's limited by the telehandler capacity as much as the design.

 

[Windy Miller]

I know you said your’e not finished, but surely its not a good idea to 1) weld a plate thats pulling to the centre of the box and 2) on the side where the weld on the box is?

Hmmm this is interesting - can you explain why you think this is not a good idea?
I have no idea what this thing is, but I’d like to know the thinking behind your comments.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Hmmm this is interesting - can you explain why you think this is not a good idea?
I have no idea what this thing is, but I’d like to know the thinking behind your comments.

I assume because the weakest part of ox section is likely to be the weld seam, and as the plate is welded to the centre of one side its most likely to deform there, but as @Munkul has said, it's 8mm wall and isn't going anywhere with 500kg on the end.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The last few weeks I have acquired a lot of bits to help other people.

The Mattock was in a poor state, but it is a good size for some people to use in the allotment.



It has had a hard life, as the tips are both damaged.
The RHS you can see the chunk missing.



So I set to work with a grinder, files and a stone.



Both tips were slowly heated to cherry red and quenched into cold water.



Then the tips were cleaned up with a flap disc, then warmed to a deep blue to temper them.



Then the head was boiled in citric acid to remove the rust, then attacked with a wire brush.



I had a spare hickory shaft in my shed.
So it was given a sand down to remove the nasty varnish. I know the varnish will crack and flake. They do dig into flesh.




The shaft is then given a few coats of wax/oil mix.

A nice 5lb Blades Mattock returned to use.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Some times you just have to restore something to prove a point.
This ball pein hammer was deemed by a MIS member to be:
"Just fit for scrap."
But he is the type of tool collector who has all new and shinny tools.



So, I cut the half the head off, boiled it in Citric acid.



The head was heated to cherry red and quenched in cold salted water.
Cleaned with flap disc and tempered to purple colour.



New shaft fitted and is now a nice balanced hammer.

 

[Maker]

I found a big bit of brass for some vice jaws, then realised brass really isn't ideal so I soldered a sheet of copper to the face of it.
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The one I milled flat is on the moving jaw so you can't see it peeled up, I did the other in the 4 jaw on the lathe, I really don't have enough tooling to use the mill yet.

These have finally died, as you'd expect they would. The copper deforms and shears the solder, before long the whole thing peeled off. It's been two years but I've been away at uni so they've had perhaps six months of use. I'd be surprised if anyone thinks this is a good idea but if so, I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Just for the fun, well it was to early for beer, plus it needed to be done.



Another cobblers hammer, again a hard life.



Some times a small amout of worm damaged can be fixed, in this case I fixed it with fire.


Head was cleaned up by hand, after boiling in citric acid.
The face was polished on a off cut of canvas and metal polish.



Yes the wedge is waiting to be cleaned, but there was a name on it.


"Keen"
It is stamped in and is original to the hammer, so it be reused.



Fitted to a new shaft.
The head was blacked with my kit. But it takes a while for the de watering solution to dry.

When it is the working face will be polished.

 

[nickk]

After much struggling and several near misses with a folding stool,I’ve made a portable ladder,with the benefit of roof stowage for travel,I’ve similar on my work van and would never go back to a door mounted type.
Ran out of stock lengths of chs,so a few joins,there’s a slight twist,I’ll sort that after galvanising in case there’s more,the ends will have a strip of wood bolted.

 

[James1979]

View attachment 306099
Finishing a set of milling clamps, mostly to see how reproducible work is on my mill - very happy with them!

View attachment 306100

You should sell them.

 

[James1979]

I've never stick welded before, I suppose it can't hurt to order some rods and give it a try. I've got some 316 mig wire but no welder so that's not a lot of help.

Stainless probably isn't the best thing to learn stick on Its a bit thin anyhow to be fair.

I would take Brad up one his offer

 

[Brad93]

You should sell them.

For the cost of a set from MSC I think you'd be working for £0.02p an hour

 

[James1979]

For the cost of a set from MSC I think you'd be working for £0.02p an hour

True but they are nice.

 

[Tangledfeet]

Early last year I made a stool for the workshop but it soon became a static stand for the Lorch TIG but the legs and the floorspace they took up were a PITA and a small step ladder was more more useful, and safer, for getting up to the mezzanine storage area in the workshop; took a slitting disc (or two) to it yesterday and reused all the steel and wood to make a bolt-on shelf for the MicorTIG.

Quite chuffed with my homebrew alignment and clamping system, also used a 0.8mm shim (something I'd seen This Old Tony does) to to create a small gap between parts when tacking up - worked well and it was all perfectly square.

 

[MCKDAVID]

Stainless probably isn't the best thing to learn stick on Its a bit thin anyhow to be fair.

I would take Brad up one his offer

agreed thin stainless isn't that easy, but the stick I've done on stainless is nice and easy, the puddle flows fairly well I found, sparks up easily too.. Don't know if it would be easier to learn on than steel, but given a choice I'd take stainless over mild to work on.

 

[Fraserb]

Made some stripes, then the rain came.

 

[Ton-up]

Hmmm this is interesting - can you explain why you think this is not a good idea?
I have no idea what this thing is, but I’d like to know the thinking behind your comments.

I assume because the weakest part of ox section is likely to be the weld seam, and as the plate is welded to the centre of one side its most likely to deform there, but as @Munkul has said, it's 8mm wall and isn't going anywhere with 500kg on the end.

Exactly as Dan says, I just looked at it and thought it looked wrong. At 8mm it won't pull out.
I was taught to put something pulling next to an edge wherever possible and put the weld seam where it won't matter.

 

[Windy Miller]

Exactly as Dan says, I just looked at it and thought it looked wrong. At 8mm it won't pull out.
I was taught to put something pulling next to an edge wherever possible and put the weld seam where it won't matter.

Ah yeah - that makes sense!

 

[Kram]

Er spanner handle and some 40mm tube ends. Going to weld m20 nuts on some of them for the welding bench feet. Some fresh hot citric, had the mill scale off in half hour.

 

[Mick Annick]

Some times you just have to restore something to prove a point.
This ball pein hammer was deemed by a MIS member to be:
"Just fit for scrap."
But he is the type of tool collector who has all new and shinny tools.

View attachment 306166

So, I cut the half the head off, boiled it in Citric acid.

View attachment 306169

The head was heated to cherry red and quenched in cold salted water.
Cleaned with flap disc and tempered to purple colour.

View attachment 306173

New shaft fitted and is now a nice balanced hammer.

Please pardon my ignorance, but that’s the first time I’ve seen a reference to salted water for quenching, why is the salt added?