Stuff you have made today

[Dcal]

When I'm trying to drill big holes I tend to use slugger bits to rough it out on the drill or the lathe.
Certainly not precision but it can shift a lot of material with relatively little torque.
By coincidence I used my pillar drill to rough out your back plate blanks yesterday when I was adding lightness for carriage.
Thats a 42mm slugger bit.
I messed up the Hermes order and it was easier to take weight off than change the order.





I have an MT2 adaptor which takes slugger bits. That fits my Boxford and a MT2 to MT3 sleeve that lets me use it on my big drill.

 

[Bullet2012]

 

[Kram]

I would like to get some slugger bits, makes that look easy. Thanks for doing the plates, they look good.

Maybe make a 'reaction bar' that will bear on the cross slide for these demanding applications. Have a look at (mill) tapping heads or tailstock die holders for the concept. At a pinch, an adjustable spanner on the flats on the ER chuck would do. You would need two spanners, one for imperial drills and the other for metric.

Yeah I tried holding it with my hand and careful to break the chips before they got me!

Im thinking to screw cut a fine thread on the end of tailstock, which would allow a nut with a pin to lock the item into the taper, and help removal. The item would need a groove around it for the pin to pull on.

 

[Agroshield]

I'm thinking to screw cut a fine thread on the end of tailstock, which would allow a nut with a pin to lock the item into the taper...

Go easy with the amount of pull you put on it. A Morse taper is quite shallow, so has a large mechanical advantage. The fine thread will add to that. There is not a lot of meat around the taper on the tailstock barrel, so if you go mad, you risk swelling the tailstock barrel.

On a mill with a Morse taper and drawbar, it is not really there to drag the taper into closer contact, but to stop it falling out from the sideways loads and vibration from a fluted tool.

See page 14 (27) of this: https://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/misc/Armstrong-Catalog-THB49-1947.pdf

 

[Dcal]

Had it been scrapped?

Sorry Dan, looks like it.
Nobody know anything about it now.
They were big lumps, (there was two of them) far too big to stash in the car, but I did think they might have been of use to someone.



If they turn up I'll give you a shout.

 

[Pete.]

Today I made a pretty useless parting holder much more useful. These Chinese parting blades do work but not very well and not very fast. I had a decent insert blade and a box of 10 inserts but no holder so I sacrificed the Chinese one for the cause.

The blade is about 100 thou thick so I milled a rebate 150 thou deep using a 10mm carbide slot drill. I wound the old retaining block fully home in the slot and milled that too, leaving just the top corner for clamping.



Made it a snug fit for the blade.



I carefully peened the edges of the raised edges to keep the blade held tight back against the back face yet still allowing the blade to slide in and out.



Test cut in 1.5" steel bar. Power-feeding all the way.

 

[Windy Miller]

Today I made a pretty useless parting holder much more useful. These Chinese parting blades do work but not very well and not very fast. I had a decent insert blade and a box of 10 inserts but no holder so I sacrificed the Chinese one for the cause.

The blade is about 100 thou thick so I milled a rebate 150 thou deep using a 10mm carbide slot drill. I wound the old retaining block fully home in the slot and milled that too, leaving just the top corner for clamping.

View attachment 303960

Made it a snug fit for the blade.

View attachment 303962

I carefully peened the edges of the raised edges to keep the blade held tight back against the back face yet still allowing the blade to slide in and out.

View attachment 303961

Test cut in 1.5" steel bar. Power-feeding all the way.

View attachment 303963

Nice one @Pete. I need to sort out a decent parting tool for my mini lathe. All this hacksawing is giving me the hump!

 

[8ob]

Assembled more than made, this three in one surfaced out of the mire a few weeks back, one I bought as a part assembled box of bits. Finally got around to stripping, cleaning and reassembling it today, quite chuffed with it, it does what it says on the tin, it crops, folds and rolls.

Put the rollers in the lathe to clean them up.

Set up the anvil, stroke, fitted a finger of tooling, set the rollers and bend limit,

Cropped a bit of scrap and had a play.

 

[Kram]

I gave the garden table more paint. Less than 5 minutes after it was p'ing down, but I was prepared

Found a solution to the spinning collet chuck. Using it in toolpost allows a crude draw bar, but is a pain to align!

Another go with the reground iscar parting. It does work quite well with the speed right down, under 150rpm, *but* it needs to be fed in hard to stop it chattering. Might work at higher speed if I can feed it harder!?

******! Using a cheap tap for this, not one of the good ones. Plan is, as HSS is brittle, to smash the remains out and re tap.

Tailstock die holder almost complete, need to make a 20mm adaptor. Grubs need grinding down and I will make up some knurled thumb screws with it.

Cooking a late... or early dinner.

 

[Agroshield]

Found a solution to the spinning collet chuck. Using it in toolpost allows a crude draw bar, but is a pain to align!

It looks like you have no compound and your toolpost slides in the T-slots in the cross-slide. With the toolpost-securing nuts loose, hold a piece of silver steel in the spindle and in the ER chuck. It then self-aligns. Tighten toolpost nuts. Same method can be used for vertical alignment.

Next week, I predict we will see a post saying the toolpost is rotating on its stud due to the pressure from the drill.

 

[Munkul]

Another go with the reground iscar parting. It does work quite well with the speed right down, under 150rpm, *but* it needs to be fed in hard to stop it chattering. Might work at higher speed if I can feed it harder!?

How come it doesn't work at high speed? I can whack my kennametal 4mm parting blade in at 800rpm on say 30mm bar, it actually doesn't like being fed in too hard.
It seems a few people on the forum have issues with parting blades. I wonder if the blades are slightly off centre height or something.

 

[Other Daniel]

How come it doesn't work at high speed? I can whack my kennametal 4mm parting blade in at 800rpm on say 30mm bar, it actually doesn't like being fed in too hard.
It seems a few people on the forum have issues with parting blades. I wonder if the blades are slightly off centre height or something.

Or not perfectly perpendicular to the work, perhaps.

 

[Munkul]

Or not perfectly perpendicular to the work, perhaps.

I want to hope that everyone checks square on the blade before parting...

 

[My Old Landy]

I want to hope that everyone checks square on the blade before parting...

I have a rear toolpost with the parting tool permanently set up. Rigid as anything and don't get any issues

 

[Brad93]

I would think it chatters because Kram is using a mini lathe well beyond its design capabilities.

 

[pedrobedro]

I would think it chatters because Kram is using a mini lathe well beyond its design capabilities.

My mate who does bits for me on his mini lathe cuts tube or bar then squares/tidies the end on the lathe as he says the bearings aren't up to parting.

 

[Munkul]

I would think it chatters because Kram is using a mini lathe well beyond its design capabilities.

It's not a mini lathe as such, though, is it? It should be rigid enough to part off slowly with a narrow blade surely?

...or may even be easier/less chatter with a wider blade....

 

[Kram]

Its not a mini-mini lathe, but it is small at about 120kg.

How come it doesn't work at high speed? I can whack my kennametal 4mm parting blade in at 800rpm on say 30mm bar, it actually doesn't like being fed in too hard.
It seems a few people on the forum have issues with parting blades. I wonder if the blades are slightly off centre height or something.

The Iscar tag inserts seem to need more cutting pressure.. I imagine much like a more cnmg insert vs a positive ccmt, should be more durable.
This is a difficult grade of steel.
The sp200/gtn2 style work well but the inserts can be variable quality, Im out of good ones.

It looks like you have no compound and your toolpost slides in the T-slots in the cross-slide. With the toolpost-securing nuts loose, hold a piece of silver steel in the spindle and in the ER chuck. It then self-aligns. Tighten toolpost nuts. Same method can be used for vertical alignment.

Next week, I predict we will see a post saying the toolpost is rotating on its stud due to the pressure from the drill.

Having the post nut and tool holder loose is enough for alignment I used a 9mm drill for that. Problem is the boring holder wants to sit at a slight angle when its tightened up.
Yes it rotates, not from drilling but tapping the er40 out. Another to do is to fit a locating pin for square work. I do plan to remake the post mount and get the compound fitted sometime..

 

[Brad93]

I believe Kram has upgraded his bearings. It may not be a mini lathe but it's not a rigid lathe like a Harrison or a Colchester. The spindle is probably a third of the mass of a proper lathe.

 

[Other Daniel]

It's not a mini lathe as such, though, is it? It should be rigid enough to part off slowly with a narrow blade surely?

...or may even be easier/less chatter with a wider blade....

What is the lathe, @Kram ?
Looks like a Warco, from the colours.