James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
Reasonable. I need to refine it a bit. Still making a profit but I had expected to use the first batch as a learning spike so happy with that!
got a flypress inbound so that’ll speed the initial bend up. Tooling isn’t quite there so some clips need a tweak at QA. Get those two sorted and I’ll get them nice and quick.
Next trial is using a mixer to deburr them
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
Cheers
Gragson
Member
- Messages
- 2,652
- Location
- Bucks
Nice work @James1979
Reminds me when 3 of us planned a run of exhaust caps, tooling premade, material mostly cut to size, thought we would be done in 4 hours, took us 10 to make 34! fettling the press tooling was the biggest ball ache.
Reminds me when 3 of us planned a run of exhaust caps, tooling premade, material mostly cut to size, thought we would be done in 4 hours, took us 10 to make 34! fettling the press tooling was the biggest ball ache.
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
If it was a smaller run I wouldn’t bother. I am making a reasonable wage out of it and it’s led to more work.
fettling the tooling takes the time. Which is why if it was a small run it’s not worth it for me.
I’m lucky I can plasma the blanks. That reduces a lot of time taken. Even if I need to babysit it, it’s a relatively quick operation
fettling the tooling takes the time. Which is why if it was a small run it’s not worth it for me.
I’m lucky I can plasma the blanks. That reduces a lot of time taken. Even if I need to babysit it, it’s a relatively quick operation
aye, I've done a few jobs that to be honest weren't worth the bother, and just taking a hit on the time with the expectation it's going to lead to more (better paying) work later. To date, it's mostly paid off, sometimes you need to invest / be optimistic, at least I'll continue to look at it that way.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I've recently 3D designed & printed a trigger in ABS - T for my litter picker / extended picking device .
I measured a bright steel nail for the pin which was a tad bigger than the pin I took out . So I ended up drilling the pinhole to the nail diameter , chopped the nail leaving the head & tapered the free end a fraction then carefully peened it over with a ball pene pin hammer
This time it's been done in 70% density and is far stronger than the old broken original cast part . It took two attempts the first print was a fraction too wide for the channel it fits in ( I'd forgotten the takeoff 0.68 mm for clearance ) and it was a bit too short for a decent pull with my fingers as it was only 50 mm long ( Now 80 mm long ) . Next project for the picker when I've less to do is a couple off line/guide pullies and a full complement of the jaws & magnet retainer plus a nice meaty handle .
It was a tad tight after I'd strung it back up , but a squirt of WD40 every where loosened everything perfectly.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Ardy ,
I have a 5 kg tub of caustic pearls . what is the ratio of boiling water to your caustic that you use ? Do I take it that you drop the caustic into cold water then it heats up due to thermo reaction and then you bring it to a boil .....is that correct? .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,342
- Location
- Going Away.
Fill the container with water so the depth of the water is half as much of the height of the item to strip.
So a 100mm high item with need a depth of 150mm.
Add the caustic until it starts to stopped being absorbed, in tepid water. Add tepid water until the caustic t is dissolved.
Add the item and warm.
Test the paint removal by rubbing a blunt plastic tool.
Then wash in warm water.
Simplz.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Circa 1955... At the local blacksmiths the smith used 5/16 ( 8mm ? ) foot ( 300 mm ) long split pins that he reheated to make a big eyed split pin then put a Whitworth thread on the now reclosed split pin leg ends s . The ring would go over the snaith and some thread would poke out the drilled & counter sunk handle then pop the nut on and wind it down into the the counter sunk handle . Often the guys with the scythes had two side handle on the scythe some 30 degrees off set from each other especially if they were cutting hay by-hand or scything out the ditches to get lesser quality hay stack covering materials.Made a scythe for mowing the ditches and other areas around the yard, dislike firing up the weed whacker and much prefer this.
Norweigan carbon steel blade, homemade snath in eastern european fashion with a single handle and wedge style attachement. I need to work on the handle ring yet, didn't get it the proper size for the snath (which is hand carved so not perfectly round or straight all the way). Had to resort to some shims to make it fit for now. I have made it so you turn the handle to tighten the ring around the snath. The idea is you will be able to easily move the single handle to where you want it without tools. I might make it into a two handle setup yet though.
Had to reinforce the snath, it broke more than once. Fir isn't the ideal material... But cheap and light. I should probably weld up the whole side, would look better.
. IIRC there was a big thick penny washer directly against the snaith too .
Their snaith had bends in them so that they twisted slightly around their hips with the thin end slightly up & forward of the straight stick scythes. To get the twisted shaft a long thick coppiced willow was cut , debarked , roughly smoothed with a pull knife then slid inside several 600 mm long clay land drain pipes that ran water all year for 14 days or so to get them super pliable , then it was pegged with big round pegs & blocks of wood & wedges on to a big old felled tree trunk that had an adzed face
Some Blacksmiths used steaming tubes to make the willows / ash pliable , but old Mr Wellborne was a Blacksmith from the late 1880's .
The snaiths were usually willow or ash , can't remember if it was green or seasoned wood that he had stood up in his blacksmiths shop . , . Then they were taken out and set with big wooden pegs onto a wooden railway sleeper to get the right bend then left for a week or more to dry out naturally when they got sanded & coated in linseed oil .
I watched Mr Wellborne measure my dad for a scythe fitting & telling him when it would be ready . He also put a grass nail in the blade and had it anchored to a round clamp on the lower part of the snaith ..the grass nail deflected long cut grass to fall nicely for turning to hay a few days later after the mowers had cut the field .
IIRC Later to the end of the 1950's a factory made snaith appeared at the farm ..made by Ewel ( ? ) but the Blacksmith still did the fittings .
Dad could sharpen a scythe bade with medium grade round or ovulid smooth rub-stones of carborundum so good that you could stick a copper penny by its edge to the blade edge just by gently pushing it on to the edge .. if it didn't stick it wasn't sharp .
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 6,294
- Location
- Ireland
A while ago I bought a pair of cheap Black&Decker style Workmates, in a 2fer1 deal. It occurred to me they'd be useful for quite a few things, balancing wheels being one of them.
[video=youtube_share;ybDoVI6lUJ4]
[video=youtube_share;8wWwso2f_lE]
[video=youtube_share;ybDoVI6lUJ4]
[video=youtube_share;8wWwso2f_lE]
So I bought this lump of 6082T6 
couldn't find anything suitable at the scrappers 
Now I just need to make some holes through it to be able to bolt it to the table.
Holes one side drilled, counter-bored and faced.
Other side done and faced. Then dialed in and clamped to the table.
Cheating strip clamped to the table and first dovetail cut.
Turned over and second dovetail cut.
Now you can see what it's all for.
I've rounded the edges off but forgot to take a photo of that!
Tomorrows job is to cut the pockets for the clamps, drill and tap for the studs, make clamps and studs, but first I have to fab an angle plate to give me the 30 deg for cutting the pockets.
couldn't find anything suitable at the scrappers Now I just need to make some holes through it to be able to bolt it to the table.
Holes one side drilled, counter-bored and faced.
Other side done and faced. Then dialed in and clamped to the table.
Cheating strip clamped to the table and first dovetail cut.
Turned over and second dovetail cut.
Now you can see what it's all for.
I've rounded the edges off but forgot to take a photo of that!
Tomorrows job is to cut the pockets for the clamps, drill and tap for the studs, make clamps and studs, but first I have to fab an angle plate to give me the 30 deg for cutting the pockets.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,633
- Location
- Keeler crater
If you're not in a hurry, you don't need anything like a saturated solution, and it doesn't need to be heated. Of course it's so cheap you don't really save a lot by being stingey mixing up the solution but I had good results with probably about 200g in 20 litres, no heat just stood in the garden overnight. Rinse in clean water (Pressure wash if you're lazy) and then another night in citric acid does a fantastic job of stripping both paint and corrosion.
