Agroshield
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Maybe it is trick of perspective but the top row of chisels look to have interesting laceration potential when using the electrical socket.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Maybe it is trick of perspective but the top row of chisels look to have interesting laceration potential when using the electrical socket.
Dr.Al
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I know what you mean about magnetic tools. I have two distinct areas in my garage: one for metalwork and one for woodwork. I'm very careful to ensure the swarf doesn't go up the woodworking end (mainly because of my motorbike which is in the woodworking end - I don't want holes in my tyres!). I don't use magnets like this up the metalworking end and I keep a demagnetiser on hand for tools that start collecting swarf. That Allen key set is just for that end of the garage - I have quite a few sets!
I see what you mean, but in practice it isn't a problem: one plug is for the garage door and the other is for the Makita battery charger. They haven't been unplugged since the first time they were plugged in. I use the switch for the battery charger, but otherwise don't touch the socket at all. There are 6 more sockets on the wall lower down (you can see one in the bottom left of the picture): I use those when I need to plug something in.
mtt.tr
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Cant hook is working now, though needs some refinement yet I think.
Brilliant tools
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This item was part of a bigger item I acquired the other day.
A lump of crud, plaster and who knows what else. But I did recognise the basic shape and its main use.
The 3 main parts.
The Middle and RHS are after it was attacked with a brass scrapper. The LHS you can see how bad it was.
This is after boiling it in Vinegar and water. Followed by sitting by the fire pit, with beer and some metal polish.
Oddly a pleasant way to chill out.
Finished, polished and the lettering filled with a hard wax.
A lot of history on that one small item.
A lump of crud, plaster and who knows what else. But I did recognise the basic shape and its main use.
The 3 main parts.
The Middle and RHS are after it was attacked with a brass scrapper. The LHS you can see how bad it was.
This is after boiling it in Vinegar and water. Followed by sitting by the fire pit, with beer and some metal polish.
Oddly a pleasant way to chill out.
Finished, polished and the lettering filled with a hard wax.
A lot of history on that one small item.
slim_boy_fat
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My first glance at the first pic and I thought it was a very poorly made burger.....
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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^^^^^^^
That was a smaller part of something bigger.
Turn of the Century Dental flask pressure oven.
This was a nice find, it was complete and would of been un use up to about the mid 1970's.
It is gas heated, originally designed to use "Town Gas" but they were in use with modern gas and a regulator.
This was a great talking point and I chose to restore it with out using power tools, unless I really had too.
This and a bundle of wire wool, emery cloth and paint was all that was used on the strip down, clean up and rebuild.
Only one item failed or broke. That was a BA screw holding the time peace on.
One nod to modern H&S.
There was a gasket in the lid. Not knowing if it was asbestos, it was not disturbed.
The metal round it w de-rusted using of the shelf de-ruster. Then sealed with a clear coat.
To clean the rust of the rest.
It was coated in flour vinegar and water and wrapped in "kling-film".
This is all the bits.
The brass items placed in vinegar and water, the steel parts in Citric acid.
The 3 main parts of a Town gas burner. The brass part you can see is used to control the heat of the flame. I had it tested and it does work. But the correct regulator is not on any budget to be found.
I would like some orange tradition gas pipe, but we will see.
This is the Time indicator. A simple device to tell the dental Technician when the flasks would be ready. It went from a manule through to clock work. Then electric when the ovens went to electric power.
Polished up. The brass is very bad and the black marks did not come out. The marks were fading, but the brass was thinning.
The metal under the paint layers was bad, this is what was under the time peace.
So after soaking in the citric acid and a wire brush. Yes, a power tool, but needs must.
A nod to the past.
This filler is resin and hardener, mixed with lead powder and talcum powder. A tradition mix.
Wet and dry, with lots of warm water was used to flatten it back and fill the pits. 3 times I filled and sanded. Baking dry between layers.
The pressure water tank.
This is how it came out of the vinegar bath.
The brown/red stains are in the metal in the casting flaws. They are deep and some are impossible to remove by hand.
I had thought about having it blasted clean. But that way you will loose any historical marks.
Finished.
Well no.
I have to make a base for it, again out of wood.
The unit has cost me time only to restore. All paint and sundry items were what I had in the play pen.
The pressure gauge is dead. There no plans to restore it or replace it.
Yet.
The final colours were as close to original as I could find. The red and yellow were the layers close to the metal.
The black was as well, but there was a coat of Olive drab on the whole assembly.
Yes, I have put the premature baby denture flask with it as well.
That was a smaller part of something bigger.
Turn of the Century Dental flask pressure oven.
This was a nice find, it was complete and would of been un use up to about the mid 1970's.
It is gas heated, originally designed to use "Town Gas" but they were in use with modern gas and a regulator.
This was a great talking point and I chose to restore it with out using power tools, unless I really had too.
This and a bundle of wire wool, emery cloth and paint was all that was used on the strip down, clean up and rebuild.
Only one item failed or broke. That was a BA screw holding the time peace on.
One nod to modern H&S.
There was a gasket in the lid. Not knowing if it was asbestos, it was not disturbed.
The metal round it w de-rusted using of the shelf de-ruster. Then sealed with a clear coat.
To clean the rust of the rest.
It was coated in flour vinegar and water and wrapped in "kling-film".
This is all the bits.
The brass items placed in vinegar and water, the steel parts in Citric acid.
The 3 main parts of a Town gas burner. The brass part you can see is used to control the heat of the flame. I had it tested and it does work. But the correct regulator is not on any budget to be found.
I would like some orange tradition gas pipe, but we will see.
This is the Time indicator. A simple device to tell the dental Technician when the flasks would be ready. It went from a manule through to clock work. Then electric when the ovens went to electric power.
Polished up. The brass is very bad and the black marks did not come out. The marks were fading, but the brass was thinning.
The metal under the paint layers was bad, this is what was under the time peace.
So after soaking in the citric acid and a wire brush. Yes, a power tool, but needs must.
A nod to the past.
This filler is resin and hardener, mixed with lead powder and talcum powder. A tradition mix.
Wet and dry, with lots of warm water was used to flatten it back and fill the pits. 3 times I filled and sanded. Baking dry between layers.
The pressure water tank.
This is how it came out of the vinegar bath.
The brown/red stains are in the metal in the casting flaws. They are deep and some are impossible to remove by hand.
I had thought about having it blasted clean. But that way you will loose any historical marks.
Finished.
Well no.
I have to make a base for it, again out of wood.
The unit has cost me time only to restore. All paint and sundry items were what I had in the play pen.
The pressure gauge is dead. There no plans to restore it or replace it.
Yet.
The final colours were as close to original as I could find. The red and yellow were the layers close to the metal.
The black was as well, but there was a coat of Olive drab on the whole assembly.
Yes, I have put the premature baby denture flask with it as well.
Last edited:
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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My first glance at the first pic and I thought it was a very poorly made burger.....
I knew you lot North of the wall had some odd taste, but...........
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Just as I was writing the above an E mail arrived from General Dental Council.
The reason for the Olive drab was explained.
During both world wars there was tests and experiments in moulding metal and plastic parts together.
Some of the dental pressures ovens were taken up by the War department and used for test ones and small batches to test ideas.
Mainly for proximity fuse in Anti Aircraft munitions.
Something what came into force during the battle of Britain (early ground to air fuses) and then in the operations against the Japanese. Were the shell just needed to work near a target, not by hitting the target.
They could not give me any more details that that.
What is a shame.
The reason for the Olive drab was explained.
During both world wars there was tests and experiments in moulding metal and plastic parts together.
Some of the dental pressures ovens were taken up by the War department and used for test ones and small batches to test ideas.
Mainly for proximity fuse in Anti Aircraft munitions.
Something what came into force during the battle of Britain (early ground to air fuses) and then in the operations against the Japanese. Were the shell just needed to work near a target, not by hitting the target.
They could not give me any more details that that.
What is a shame.
slim_boy_fat
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Strong magnetic fields?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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As varied as you can imagine.
The British made great leaps when the dutch shipWillem van der Zaan "Docked" in the UK during WW2 with a natty Bofors director and proximity munitions.
Not that we would copy or liberate anything like that.
rtcosic
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Another is being able to look over the top of the windscreen of an MX-5.
I have a photograph somewhere of No 3 son c. 6' 4", and No 1 nephew c. 6' 6" in No 1 son's MX-5 before he performed the foamectomy on the seat squab. Rather comical!
mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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A priest for my eldest who has got into fishing since moving to the isle of skye,
good fun to make and great to use the compound slide....
good fun to make and great to use the compound slide....
A bit more of what is taking up most of my time, but occasionally means I do some welding. This time TIG'ing mild steel as transformers have some weght to them and aluminium would bend to much if dropped!
A seperate PSU
Just done another chassis to start one side of a valve amp, only 10 Watts max but would be loud enough for me.
Adrian
A seperate PSU
Just done another chassis to start one side of a valve amp, only 10 Watts max but would be loud enough for me.
Adrian
Country Joe
Argoshield Dark
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Saw a small pile of pallets dumped somewhere nearby, so liberated them.
I sanded a few up, and thought they'd sit nicely in a steel frame.
Eventually the pile was just in the way, so it had to be used up, and made into something - anything!
I can't remember why, but somehow the frame ended up divided into two halves - so the pallet wood went into each half, but with each half going in different directions.
The frame itself is fairly sturdy - the top strip is 50 X 5mm, with 20 X 2 angle around the inside of it, to support the top.
The legs (and the other inter-connecting round pieces) are 20mm round bar, and the centre cross piece underneath the angle-iron support frame is 1'' square box section with a 3 mm wall.
The slats were stuck onto pieces of 18mm ply, partly to raise it up slightly so as to be able to see the end-grain, and also just to keep the damned slats still!
There's obviously a gap in the centre, as there are 2 pieces of angle-iron back-to-back, to make an up-side-down "T" shape, that the ply & pallet wood are located in - and resting on.
A bit of varnish:-
It might need feet too, as the bar-ends seem a bit severe.
From above:-
I might even get it powder-coated - to save me from doing any painting - maybe in clear - or does that just go misty and cloudy with the UV effects?
Top pieces in place:-
I don't even need a table either - so after all that, it's still in the way!
I suppose I could fill it with all the (other) odd, un-hinged lockdown "items" I've made out of what was lying around!
I'll probably end up trying my luck on e-bay, once it's got in the way one too many times.
All the Best,
CJ
I sanded a few up, and thought they'd sit nicely in a steel frame.
Eventually the pile was just in the way, so it had to be used up, and made into something - anything!
I can't remember why, but somehow the frame ended up divided into two halves - so the pallet wood went into each half, but with each half going in different directions.
The frame itself is fairly sturdy - the top strip is 50 X 5mm, with 20 X 2 angle around the inside of it, to support the top.
The legs (and the other inter-connecting round pieces) are 20mm round bar, and the centre cross piece underneath the angle-iron support frame is 1'' square box section with a 3 mm wall.
The slats were stuck onto pieces of 18mm ply, partly to raise it up slightly so as to be able to see the end-grain, and also just to keep the damned slats still!
There's obviously a gap in the centre, as there are 2 pieces of angle-iron back-to-back, to make an up-side-down "T" shape, that the ply & pallet wood are located in - and resting on.
A bit of varnish:-
It might need feet too, as the bar-ends seem a bit severe.
From above:-
I might even get it powder-coated - to save me from doing any painting - maybe in clear - or does that just go misty and cloudy with the UV effects?
Top pieces in place:-
I don't even need a table either - so after all that, it's still in the way!
I suppose I could fill it with all the (other) odd, un-hinged lockdown "items" I've made out of what was lying around!
I'll probably end up trying my luck on e-bay, once it's got in the way one too many times.
All the Best,
CJ
Brad93
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Got started cutting this late in the afternoon. Missus and mum both been on at me to make them a mounting block.
Both sides all cut now ready to be tacked and welded tomorrow. Need to order a bit of 5mm angle, brundles wouldn’t chuck a bit on their lorry with my £500 order that is coming tomorrow. So I’m going to end up paying £10 delivery and hopefully will be here Thursday.
Both sides all cut now ready to be tacked and welded tomorrow. Need to order a bit of 5mm angle, brundles wouldn’t chuck a bit on their lorry with my £500 order that is coming tomorrow. So I’m going to end up paying £10 delivery and hopefully will be here Thursday.
slim_boy_fat
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Nice! Just needs a hole at the operator end with a leather boot lace through it to slip round the wrist - slippery hobby, fishing.....
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Over time ..about 12 years my experience has been .... those cheaply clad super magnets also start to flake off and go rusty leaving you with some very sharp nasty films of rusty & shiny metal to get under your finger nails . They are OK if you encase them in some molten plastic to seal them from the air .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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That gap would look good filled with stainless or bright steel or brass.
And the Cambridge roller needs repairs. They have brittle cast iron wheels which break when you tow it over rocks down the farm race, especially if staff think the tractor only goes flat out. I bought replacement wheels from the foundry in Timaru and at around $NZ150 each delivered (around 75 pounds) they are expensive to replace. It currently has at least 3 if not 4 broken wheels which have been ignored for years but it has made it to the top of the list.
The plan is to fit some road wheels, lowered by a hydraulic ram to lift the roller wheels off the ground. Made out of what was around, except the trailer wheels and ram and hoses, I hope it will fix that problem.
No close ups of the welding as it is proper farmer welding :-). As well as replacing the wheels, I will see if I can fit an IBU plastic water tank on top whcih I can then fill and add 1T of extra weight for dealing with dry ground.
