I'm going to be spending hours looking at this
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Lewis_RX8
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So Mazda in their ifinite wisdom decided to make the locking wheel nut a 17mm hex size while the actual wheel nuts are 21. So have to switch sockets and then plop in locking wheel socket which is rather long winded.
I however decided to do something about it with some odds and ends kicking around the garage.
First machined down a spare nut to 21mm
Not my best machining but it worked.
Then a hex was filled into that 21mm nut which allowed me to press the locking wheel socket into it.
And then added some blobs of weld to the edges and a big centre well to fill in and strengthen the nut.
And finally some paint.
I however decided to do something about it with some odds and ends kicking around the garage.
First machined down a spare nut to 21mm
Not my best machining but it worked.
Then a hex was filled into that 21mm nut which allowed me to press the locking wheel socket into it.
And then added some blobs of weld to the edges and a big centre well to fill in and strengthen the nut.
And finally some paint.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I made some blue things to replace some missing black things. 
They go in the light stands I got last month to stop the clamping screws scratching the poles. First one took about an hour in Fusion, the rest took seconds, parametric modeling is magic!
They go in the light stands I got last month to stop the clamping screws scratching the poles. First one took about an hour in Fusion, the rest took seconds, parametric modeling is magic!
AndersK
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Don't know what you call this but it's the process where you try to hide earlier mistakes by mixing cement and sand, first to wet then to dry before getting good enough, trying to get it to stick to the wall, exhausting all possible bad language, while half of it ends up on the floor, one quarter falls off while levelling it. When ready you realize that you have bought 50kg too much, saving it for next time only to discover it has hardened into a lump with hardness like a diamond...
Is it rendering ?
Is it rendering ?
Dr.Al
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Today I finished making a trolley for my newly acquired table saw:
It's got slightly unusual custom-made feet. The idea is that (unlike a footmaster castor or similar), when it goes onto the feet the whole frame is lifted up off the floor by quite a long way (about 80 mm: the travel of the feet is 120 mm but they go 40 mm off the ground when the wheels are on the ground).
To lift it onto its feet, I brake the two wheels with that capability, remove the pins from the opposite side feet, lift the frame up by hand so two of the feet drop all the way, put the pins in and then do the same on the other side. Lowering is the reverse.
At its top setting (shown above), it's at the same height as my workbench so big stuff can hang off the side of the table saw. In that position, I can just squeeze between the table saw and the motorcycle to get into the rest of the garage. If I pull out the extension arm on the (left as you look at it in the photo above) side, there's no chance of squeezing past.
Lowered onto it's wheels, it tucks under the workbench and gives a lot more room to get past or it can be wheeled further into the garage to give full access to the workbench.
Gratuitous and horribly out-of-focus shot of the legs:
Made out of 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section (as is the rest of the frame) with some 25 mm square steel that I had lying around sliding in it. The feet are probably nylon and are adjustable in height by about 40 mm. Probably unnecessary having two pins holding it in place, but what the heck.
It's got slightly unusual custom-made feet. The idea is that (unlike a footmaster castor or similar), when it goes onto the feet the whole frame is lifted up off the floor by quite a long way (about 80 mm: the travel of the feet is 120 mm but they go 40 mm off the ground when the wheels are on the ground).
To lift it onto its feet, I brake the two wheels with that capability, remove the pins from the opposite side feet, lift the frame up by hand so two of the feet drop all the way, put the pins in and then do the same on the other side. Lowering is the reverse.
At its top setting (shown above), it's at the same height as my workbench so big stuff can hang off the side of the table saw. In that position, I can just squeeze between the table saw and the motorcycle to get into the rest of the garage. If I pull out the extension arm on the (left as you look at it in the photo above) side, there's no chance of squeezing past.
Lowered onto it's wheels, it tucks under the workbench and gives a lot more room to get past or it can be wheeled further into the garage to give full access to the workbench.
Gratuitous and horribly out-of-focus shot of the legs:
Made out of 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section (as is the rest of the frame) with some 25 mm square steel that I had lying around sliding in it. The feet are probably nylon and are adjustable in height by about 40 mm. Probably unnecessary having two pins holding it in place, but what the heck.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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How does it fit on the right hand side? Another post or attached to the wall?
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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Hmm. Nice job. I’m paranoid about rawl bolts splitting the bricks near a corner. I always use resin unless they’re a good 3 or 4 bricks in from the edge.
I’m sure my neurosis is totally unfounded, but I’m a belt, braces, and fitted trousers kind of guy!
Fraserb
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Thunder bolts are the answer, I genuinely use 100's a year.
Fraserb
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I've bolted some temporary gate posts down with them and it's amazing the load they can take, easier and quicker than rawl bolts.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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That chemical resin is amazing.
I had some left over which needed using up, and glued two off cuts of concrete fence post together, I've tried sledge hammering it to no avail, as a destructive testing experiment.
Don't forget to blow out the holes with a compressor first.
No compressor to hand? Child's drink straw, close your eyes...
I had some left over which needed using up, and glued two off cuts of concrete fence post together, I've tried sledge hammering it to no avail, as a destructive testing experiment.
Don't forget to blow out the holes with a compressor first.
No compressor to hand? Child's drink straw, close your eyes...
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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Ok so thunder/concrete bolts seem to be quite popular. I think I bought some for a job once but never used them.
Do you need to be very fussy about the hole size? Suppose I wobble a bit and the 12mm hole ends up being 13.5mm - would that seriously compromise the strength of the fixing?
Do you need to be very fussy about the hole size? Suppose I wobble a bit and the 12mm hole ends up being 13.5mm - would that seriously compromise the strength of the fixing?
Dcal
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I don't like thunder bolts.
I have used them and they are OK for concrete. Ive even used them in safety critical applications.
They are very dependent on what they are being screwed into but the main thing I don't like about them is they have a very course thread and the torque required to get good clamping force is quite large and very possibly more than the substrate can take (certainly if it's light weight block) Think of the mechanical advantage you get when tightening a nut on a bit 12mm stud bar compared to a Thunder Bolt.
Chemical anchor is a far better solution as they are brilliant at spreading the load from the fixing into the substrate and you have lots of choice as to what you use for a fixing.
Also there are loads of options between quickest setting and strongest bond.
There is no point in using a pure epoxy like Hilti RE500 (at £40 odd a tube) if you are wanting to fix a picture into a block wall.
Only downsides (and where the Thunder bolts do excel) is you can't remove them with out making a mess (although coring them out works) and the cost of the mixing nozzles for small one off jobs.
