Melvyn Best
Member
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- 1,810
- Location
- Cambridge
Don’t know about branding rustlers ,just cut their hands off
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Don’t know about branding rustlers ,just cut their hands off
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,453
- Location
- New Zealand
Jesus wept.
Is that brass inlay?
Is that brass inlay?
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,453
- Location
- New Zealand
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,434
- Location
- Manchester UK
I wish. It's hard enough as it is.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,554
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
Urmm... I cheated: I just followed the instructions. It's made from a kit: in the past I've generally avoided Hemingway Kits as they're stuck in the dark ages of imperial units, but I decided to order two of their cheaper kits and see what they're like and how hard they are to convert to metric. The rotary broach kit was already in metric surprisingly so I just got on with it and it took about 3 short mornings to make it from start to finish (including the broaches). I could have made it quicker, but it got too hot in the garage and so I gave up by the time it got to lunchtime! The other kit I ordered I'm going to model in 3D CAD and convert to metric before I start manufacture.
In more direct answer to your question (the above was really just so I can't claim credit for the method):
The housing is made in two parts (well, three if you include a screwed-in retainer piece). The shaft itself is simple - a long narrow diameter and a short wider diameter with a slot cut into it. The other bit of the housing (which holds two roller bearings and a thrust bearing for the spindle) is made as a simple holder and then one face is machined at 1° and a notch is left in it to slide in the groove of the shaft. The two screw together in such a way that they slide relative to each other along the groove. You then fit a cutter, mount it in the lathe tailstock and align the two parts such that the tip of the cutter goes into a countersunk hole and is hence on centre. Tighten the screws holding the two parts together and finally mount the whole thing in the chuck and skim the OD so it looks like one piece.
Quite neat really and very easy to do.
zx9
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,201
- Location
- South East London
I spotted one the newts that live in our whilst replacing some of the tiles that form the surround to the pond. We don't often see them in the day, the best way of seeing ours is to go lamping on a warm evening.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
MysterG
Member
- Messages
- 1,298
- Location
- Wiltshire, UK
Like something from under the bed in Toy Story.That's just a bit creepy, imo.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,244
- Location
- Going Away.
I was board.
I had a few coffees.
I hatched a plan.
So after a learning curve on this Frankenstein hammer.
It was lonely
So I made him a sister.
Meet Phyllis.
This is how I got it.
The rubber grip was hard and splitting.
The Nail claws were also bent.
Rubber grip removed, you can see the Nail claws out of line.
But when I was melting some alloy, I got the metal warm. Then it was a simple job of bending back in to line.
Into a Cooper sulphate mix.
This was an experiment to see if this mix would be a success this time.
Hard wood with a router cut to hold the shaft.
I know that if you flatten the main shaft from oval to flat will remove 99.9% of it's strength and it will fail.
Clamped up.
Yes that is paper between the joints. I need to separate the joint to add packers if needed.
A mistake.
A third peace was added at the end to pack it out to allow a heel to be turned.
That plan did not being turned on the lathe.
As you can see, it did not stay in place.
Plan B, was hatched.
Turn another block of beech down, split and packed out.
5 minute glue is not what it claims.
Copper plating did work and is a even coverage.
Now sealed with a rattle can clear coat.
The wooden shaft was fitted.
What is not shown are the 10 pens that were driven through the metal shaft.
As the shaft was fitted the pins will bend and form "Barbs" to grip the wood.
Stained, waxed and now waiting it's use and more wax.
I had a few coffees.
I hatched a plan.
So after a learning curve on this Frankenstein hammer.
It was lonely
So I made him a sister.
Meet Phyllis.
This is how I got it.
The rubber grip was hard and splitting.
The Nail claws were also bent.
Rubber grip removed, you can see the Nail claws out of line.
But when I was melting some alloy, I got the metal warm. Then it was a simple job of bending back in to line.
Into a Cooper sulphate mix.
This was an experiment to see if this mix would be a success this time.
Hard wood with a router cut to hold the shaft.
I know that if you flatten the main shaft from oval to flat will remove 99.9% of it's strength and it will fail.
Clamped up.
Yes that is paper between the joints. I need to separate the joint to add packers if needed.
A mistake.
A third peace was added at the end to pack it out to allow a heel to be turned.
That plan did not being turned on the lathe.
As you can see, it did not stay in place.
Plan B, was hatched.
Turn another block of beech down, split and packed out.
5 minute glue is not what it claims.
Copper plating did work and is a even coverage.
Now sealed with a rattle can clear coat.
The wooden shaft was fitted.
What is not shown are the 10 pens that were driven through the metal shaft.
As the shaft was fitted the pins will bend and form "Barbs" to grip the wood.
Stained, waxed and now waiting it's use and more wax.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,244
- Location
- Going Away.
chriscase
Member
- Messages
- 88
You gave me an idea , I've got some thin copper tape in the shed so decided to see what it would look like and i think it just finishes nicely , thankyou selectedgrub
varnished over it so hopefully it'll stay looking good , just another five coats of varnish and it'll be ready for use .
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,449
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
today it was supposed to be 'stuff i bolted together and worked first time out of the box today'
unfortunately, that didn't go to plan.
so mend modify and overcome!
bought this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NA0LZLT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to park my tyre machine on. as you can see from the pics, the castor mount is about as strong as a sheet of a4 paper.
unsurprisingly it folded as soon as i dropped any weight on it...
so, i remade them to take decent sized castors. i would like to have fitted a pair of self levelling castors, but they are overbudget.
so, casters off a old engine dolly welded on, reinforced and tested...
and painted.
couple of hours work, not bad
unfortunately, that didn't go to plan.
so mend modify and overcome!
bought this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NA0LZLT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to park my tyre machine on. as you can see from the pics, the castor mount is about as strong as a sheet of a4 paper.
unsurprisingly it folded as soon as i dropped any weight on it...
so, i remade them to take decent sized castors. i would like to have fitted a pair of self levelling castors, but they are overbudget.
so, casters off a old engine dolly welded on, reinforced and tested...
and painted.
couple of hours work, not bad
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,244
- Location
- Going Away.
A nice simple job.
Blue flames.
I got theses two Paraffin Blow lamps, more to my collection.
To be honest they are almost "2 a penny."
Cost of parts will always be more than they are worth.
So what to do with them?
I have a few, I do use them. But I now know a few friends want some for the same reasons I use mine for.
Drying out parts from De-rusting tanks.
Baking Black oxide onto metal after de-rusting.
Warming metal parts up before wax/oiling.
Heating metal parts up before bending.
Adding patterns to wood parts.
Almost like they were designed to do more than plumbing.
First job.
See if they are a unique item or have stampings that mark them out.
This one has some markings what will need more research.
Second job.
Check the pump washer. If it has failed, they are about £3:00 to buy, P&P. Worth it if the torch has value.
The smaller one did not have a "Cup washer" but a Classic war department flat rubber washer. This was a common modification in WW2. What is odd, as we had enough leather. But were short on rubber.
Third job.
Next is check the Taper on the Pressure relief screw. If the tip is bent or deformed, it can be reshaped. But if seized or broken, walk away. There is a seal under the filler cap and in the pump tube. They are about £5 for a complete set, if you can find them. Again we are pushing the limits if it is worth it.
Forth job.
Fill and fire.
Fill the body with paraffin, refit the cap and shake.
Any leaks will show up, I have soldered a few up. But I did it for the fun and experience.
Give the pump 20 to 30 strokes, until there is firm resistance on the pump.
Fill the well with "Meths." and light.
This can be unnerving to the ones who are not familiar with the operation.
As it heats up, the paraffin will burn with a smoky flame.
Do this in a safe and open space, with correct safety gear near by. This image was staged for effects.
It will start to "Roar". Then the flame will go blue.
Keep the pressure up on the pump and it will settle down to a good even blue flame.
Plus a good sound.
In flame and going strong.
There is a few safety reason to post this.
LHS side torch is in flame and going well. But you will see the "Meths." still burning. This can effect the main flame.
Do Not Be Tempted to blow it out.
Let it burn out on it's own.
The RHS is also in full flame, at maximum pressure.
But the flame is nearly invisible.
So it may look that it is out, if you can't hear the roar of the torch.
This pair will be place don the "To do" list and donated or swopped for something else to play with.
Blue flames.
I got theses two Paraffin Blow lamps, more to my collection.
To be honest they are almost "2 a penny."
Cost of parts will always be more than they are worth.
So what to do with them?
I have a few, I do use them. But I now know a few friends want some for the same reasons I use mine for.
Drying out parts from De-rusting tanks.
Baking Black oxide onto metal after de-rusting.
Warming metal parts up before wax/oiling.
Heating metal parts up before bending.
Adding patterns to wood parts.
Almost like they were designed to do more than plumbing.
First job.
See if they are a unique item or have stampings that mark them out.
This one has some markings what will need more research.
Second job.
Check the pump washer. If it has failed, they are about £3:00 to buy, P&P. Worth it if the torch has value.
The smaller one did not have a "Cup washer" but a Classic war department flat rubber washer. This was a common modification in WW2. What is odd, as we had enough leather. But were short on rubber.
Third job.
Next is check the Taper on the Pressure relief screw. If the tip is bent or deformed, it can be reshaped. But if seized or broken, walk away. There is a seal under the filler cap and in the pump tube. They are about £5 for a complete set, if you can find them. Again we are pushing the limits if it is worth it.
Forth job.
Fill and fire.
Fill the body with paraffin, refit the cap and shake.
Any leaks will show up, I have soldered a few up. But I did it for the fun and experience.
Give the pump 20 to 30 strokes, until there is firm resistance on the pump.
Fill the well with "Meths." and light.
This can be unnerving to the ones who are not familiar with the operation.
As it heats up, the paraffin will burn with a smoky flame.
Do this in a safe and open space, with correct safety gear near by. This image was staged for effects.
It will start to "Roar". Then the flame will go blue.
Keep the pressure up on the pump and it will settle down to a good even blue flame.
Plus a good sound.
In flame and going strong.
There is a few safety reason to post this.
LHS side torch is in flame and going well. But you will see the "Meths." still burning. This can effect the main flame.
Do Not Be Tempted to blow it out.
Let it burn out on it's own.
The RHS is also in full flame, at maximum pressure.
But the flame is nearly invisible.
So it may look that it is out, if you can't hear the roar of the torch.
This pair will be place don the "To do" list and donated or swopped for something else to play with.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,765
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Got a bit done to the VDI to Capto block today.
The block before starting is massive.
So it was rough machined to size (0.5mm over on all dimensions) and then chucked and centred in the 4 Jaw so that I could drill 14mm right through then bore out 50mm dia to 45mm depth.
Turned over and bored out the other side to 32mm dia and 23.5mm deep which left a 5mm thick centre section. I then put in the Chiron and drilled and tapped the 3 M6 holes and the M8 holes top and bottom for the set screws to hold the sleeve in. Also got the coolant holes drilled.
Sleeve I cut down the last day is fitted.
I then milled the M14 x 1.5 cap screw to allow coolant to pass down the centre of the Capto head.
Pic of one of the heads fitted.
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the end cap made, O Rings fitted and then finish machine the block.
The block before starting is massive.
So it was rough machined to size (0.5mm over on all dimensions) and then chucked and centred in the 4 Jaw so that I could drill 14mm right through then bore out 50mm dia to 45mm depth.
Turned over and bored out the other side to 32mm dia and 23.5mm deep which left a 5mm thick centre section. I then put in the Chiron and drilled and tapped the 3 M6 holes and the M8 holes top and bottom for the set screws to hold the sleeve in. Also got the coolant holes drilled.
Sleeve I cut down the last day is fitted.
I then milled the M14 x 1.5 cap screw to allow coolant to pass down the centre of the Capto head.
Pic of one of the heads fitted.
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the end cap made, O Rings fitted and then finish machine the block.
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,453
- Location
- New Zealand
No.
