OJCar
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- Thread starter qwakers
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qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
today i had a car in with a fault that promised to be diagnostically interesting, but in reality turned out to be dead simple to fix.
a sai circuit fault. this isn't the usual fault of a failed solenoid, but is set because when the pump is commanded on the pcm doesn't see any current draw. the list of possible faults basically boil down to a failed pump or a wiring problem.
i swapped the pump because i had a known good one. next cold start it was back, so that 20 second test didn't work. i then went for the next most likely culprit, the sai relay. this is a standard bosch relay, and is under the pcm in the ecu box. i drilled out the fixings, popped the pcm out of the way and pulled the relay out, i then bridged the load side of the relay socket and the pump ran. i grabbed the power probe and added +12v to the signal wire, and it didn't run. i pulled the relay and applied 12v and ground to the signal side, and metered out the load side and found it totally non functional. i dropped a new relay in, sent power to the signal side, and it ran the pump.
so in theory thats fixed, i just have to wait and do a cold start to see if the code re-sets. i would quite like it if the key on self test system and engine run self test system i can run in my scan tool tested the sai system, but unfortunately it does not.
a sai circuit fault. this isn't the usual fault of a failed solenoid, but is set because when the pump is commanded on the pcm doesn't see any current draw. the list of possible faults basically boil down to a failed pump or a wiring problem.
i swapped the pump because i had a known good one. next cold start it was back, so that 20 second test didn't work. i then went for the next most likely culprit, the sai relay. this is a standard bosch relay, and is under the pcm in the ecu box. i drilled out the fixings, popped the pcm out of the way and pulled the relay out, i then bridged the load side of the relay socket and the pump ran. i grabbed the power probe and added +12v to the signal wire, and it didn't run. i pulled the relay and applied 12v and ground to the signal side, and metered out the load side and found it totally non functional. i dropped a new relay in, sent power to the signal side, and it ran the pump.
so in theory thats fixed, i just have to wait and do a cold start to see if the code re-sets. i would quite like it if the key on self test system and engine run self test system i can run in my scan tool tested the sai system, but unfortunately it does not.
qwakers
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i'm not a trimmer. not even close. but when a customer has a drivers seat, in a spec i don't have a spare of, that someone has cut about and damaged trying to lower the seat for a tall driver, and he wants it back to standard, well you do what you have to do.
i didn't take many pics. i have none of the starting product or much of the work in progress, because it was a pain, but the end of the job got a few photos.
having removed the seat from the car and moved to the nice warm living room, so i could sit on the couch and do it on my lap, i pulled the base cushion and seat pan off the seat. the seat pan was badly bent, so was discarded.
the foam was cut about, so that was going to be a problem.
the spare seat was dismantled and the pan taken off and put on to the original seat,
the foam from the donor seat was cut in the same place and the offcut was glued to the old foam (i hate hog rings and am no good at fabric work, so i didn't want to swap the cover onto the other foam)
the back of the seat cover had been cut off, so i glued a piece from the cream leather seat cover onto it and left it compressed for 24hrs for the glue to cure.
i then discovered the original base frame was knackered, the base tilt no longer functioned. the donor seat was stripped of its base, which was swapped onto the original, then i built up the seat to the original spec.
after refitting unless you know where to look for the glued joint, you wouldn't know...
i didn't take many pics. i have none of the starting product or much of the work in progress, because it was a pain, but the end of the job got a few photos.
having removed the seat from the car and moved to the nice warm living room, so i could sit on the couch and do it on my lap, i pulled the base cushion and seat pan off the seat. the seat pan was badly bent, so was discarded.
the foam was cut about, so that was going to be a problem.
the spare seat was dismantled and the pan taken off and put on to the original seat,
the foam from the donor seat was cut in the same place and the offcut was glued to the old foam (i hate hog rings and am no good at fabric work, so i didn't want to swap the cover onto the other foam)
the back of the seat cover had been cut off, so i glued a piece from the cream leather seat cover onto it and left it compressed for 24hrs for the glue to cure.
i then discovered the original base frame was knackered, the base tilt no longer functioned. the donor seat was stripped of its base, which was swapped onto the original, then i built up the seat to the original spec.
after refitting unless you know where to look for the glued joint, you wouldn't know...
Blobber
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Trouble is places that do re-cores now are getting few and far between especially in this areabadly.
Name and shame whoever did that!
Ill give him the benefit of the doubt this time, if there is a next time ill double double check
Melvyn Best
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Every time I have had radiators recored / repaired or modified they have had compressed in into one of the hose fittings, the other blocked then submerged in a test tank . Luckily we have a good specialist in Cambridge stillTrouble is places that do re-cores now are getting few and far between especially in this area
Ill give him the benefit of the doubt this time, if there is a next time ill double double check
OJCar
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Name and Praise?
Blobber
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I watched him do exactly that, I think it must have been a combination of flux and paint sealing it, once it got warm it washed out
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
A good one back in Luton was portland radiators, a bit far for me now
Melvyn Best
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- Cambridge
Anglia Radiators, Stanley Rd CambridgeName and Praise?
Morris
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- Northamptonshire.
I can recommend these, I've had two 1940's rads done there.
Dozzer
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The wiring to the workshop. not that i wanted to, but having a solar system installed they said that 1.5mm SWA was not big enough for the inverter.
Th fact that i have been running a lathe, 270amp welder etc of it!!
Oh and when it came into the house before the main fuse box, they had terminated it in a 6A light switch as an isolator that i didn't know about.
Now replaced with 6mm SWA
yes this is 4 days of hand digging a 35mtr 900mm deep trench, and im done after filling it in, and finding 3 old concrete drainage runs to Kango broke my spirit a bit.
Th fact that i have been running a lathe, 270amp welder etc of it!!
Oh and when it came into the house before the main fuse box, they had terminated it in a 6A light switch as an isolator that i didn't know about.
Now replaced with 6mm SWA
yes this is 4 days of hand digging a 35mtr 900mm deep trench, and im done after filling it in, and finding 3 old concrete drainage runs to Kango broke my spirit a bit.
Dozzer
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- Essex/Suffolk border
for the main digging was only 2 days, but 1 solid day was breaking the concrete out and getting the cable in, then 1 day to back fill, was good and put the warning tape 200mm above the cable.
I live next door to an old brick works, It is clay, but sandy clay.
Too late now but 10mm2 would be better suited to run a welder, especially over that distance.
Dozzer
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- 760
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I was using 1.5mm2 so anything larger is an improvement.
the Oxford 270 seems happy to run of 16A and never had any problems with it, all the modern IGBT stuff doesn't seem to draw as many amps.
