Bullet2012
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- 5,365
- Location
- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
W.olly
Member
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- 3,875
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- Radcliffe, Manchester
Yes but will.i fit in the shed if I bought it and the wife kicks me out for buying it.
OR buy a bigger shed aswell
Edit
Go on the whats it putting out.
Yes but will.i fit in the shed if I bought it and the wife kicks me out for buying it.
OR buy a bigger shed aswell
Edit
Go on the whats it putting out.
If the engine is putting out you might enjoy living in the shed with it!
Bullet2012
Member
- Messages
- 5,365
- Location
- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
It’s a little baby GM 6.0 rated at 409 hpYes but will.i fit in the shed if I bought it and the wife kicks me out for buying it.
OR buy a bigger shed aswell
Edit
Go on the whats it putting out.
Closed cooling system, full closed loop fuel system with cats, so should keep you warm, just needs a water supply and exhaust vents. You and the shed will be toasty .
Only burns about 1 lire per hour at idle so really economical
Until you open the throttle then it’s about 270 litres per hour
And it prefers super unleaded, if you use the poor person petrol consumption goes up and performance goes down
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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But of this and that yesterday.
A week in the de-rusting tank.
A pressure wash and a rub with scotch brite.
Now will be used on the allotment for the valves on the water tanks.
A week in the de-rusting tank.
A pressure wash and a rub with scotch brite.
Now will be used on the allotment for the valves on the water tanks.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Ex WD Storm lantern, with multiple paint layers.
Boiled in caustic soda, then pressure washed.
It exposed a WD stores number, this led me to find out it was issues to the GWR in 1953.
So a few emails to the Steam Museum In Swindon I had the information I needed for the correct paint.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Same shop, different vender, I found this Railway 3 color lantern
Paint stripping showed it had many layers of paint, black, white, cream and a modern olive drab.
The paint was so tick the brass WD plate was covered and was not visible.
It was another GWR item, issued to them in 1943, according to the information I got it was painted GWR green, held in stores to 1944.
This lantern was meant to be used on Amunition trains, as there is an extra earth point on the base, so a copper braid earthling strap could be attached.
Paint stripping showed it had many layers of paint, black, white, cream and a modern olive drab.
The paint was so tick the brass WD plate was covered and was not visible.
It was another GWR item, issued to them in 1943, according to the information I got it was painted GWR green, held in stores to 1944.
This lantern was meant to be used on Amunition trains, as there is an extra earth point on the base, so a copper braid earthling strap could be attached.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,775
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- UK
I acquired this guitar today, in its day it retailed for about 750 quid, I got it for a fraction on marketplace, but it needed a bit of work.
Cedar top and mahogany back and sides.
It's a concert sized electro acoustic, all solid wood, with a florentine cutaway and an oval sound hole, I kind of liked the jazz vibe.
The cedar top has a few small dings, I could possibly get these out by sanding, steaming then refinishing, but I'm leaving it as is. I want it as a general knocking about guitar so it will acquire a few more dings no doubt.
The main thing is to make it functional. First, it wouldn't tune properly, the main reason is shown below, the 5th string is touching the 6th strings tuning peg, mainly because the strings are wound incorrectly. New strings sorted that there isn't much clearance so just have to be careful when winding them.
Next was a faulty tuning peg, the tightening nut doesn't do much, seems the internal thread is stripped. I can get away with this for now, I'll look out for another. While I had the strings off I gave the fretboard a clean and oiled it with a smidgin of lemon oil.
Finally, the tuner/preamp didn't work. This one was easy to identify and sort. I had a new pp3 connector in stock.
It's now playable although the action is a little high. Taking a look at it, the nut is fine, no need to adjust the truss rod, just need to take a mm or so off the saddle height to lower the strings. I'll do that tomorrow, I'll test the under saddle pickup while I'm at it.
Cedar top and mahogany back and sides.
It's a concert sized electro acoustic, all solid wood, with a florentine cutaway and an oval sound hole, I kind of liked the jazz vibe.
The cedar top has a few small dings, I could possibly get these out by sanding, steaming then refinishing, but I'm leaving it as is. I want it as a general knocking about guitar so it will acquire a few more dings no doubt.
The main thing is to make it functional. First, it wouldn't tune properly, the main reason is shown below, the 5th string is touching the 6th strings tuning peg, mainly because the strings are wound incorrectly. New strings sorted that there isn't much clearance so just have to be careful when winding them.
Next was a faulty tuning peg, the tightening nut doesn't do much, seems the internal thread is stripped. I can get away with this for now, I'll look out for another. While I had the strings off I gave the fretboard a clean and oiled it with a smidgin of lemon oil.
Finally, the tuner/preamp didn't work. This one was easy to identify and sort. I had a new pp3 connector in stock.
It's now playable although the action is a little high. Taking a look at it, the nut is fine, no need to adjust the truss rod, just need to take a mm or so off the saddle height to lower the strings. I'll do that tomorrow, I'll test the under saddle pickup while I'm at it.
iNf
Member
- Messages
- 608
- Location
- Hereford, England
A multipoint door lock in a upvc door wasn't working properly. The top pawl is supposed to push where the red arrow is.
It's worn badly
A quick file and drill a hole then turn a spigot on the lathe from an old float valve arm
Silver soldered together
File to rough shape (final filing when refitting to the lock) and a pickle in citric
It's worn badly
A quick file and drill a hole then turn a spigot on the lathe from an old float valve arm
Silver soldered together
File to rough shape (final filing when refitting to the lock) and a pickle in citric
qwakers
Member
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- 2,505
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
all done....washed by hand, i must like this car (or im just feeling the pinch at the moment....) after yesterdays activitys it was looking decidedly shabby and i wanted that crap off my paint, so a quick snowfoam, pressure wash off then 2 bucket wash and rinse, and it looks much better.
would have been done sunday but 2 of the bags of kiln dried sand where sopping wet....
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,401
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
My Mate's Celica ST202.
Rebuilt the NSR caliper, new rear pads, and an alternator.
He was most dischuffed to have the alternator go and brake caliper lock up three days before his MOT, but all being well we should have him sorted for test tomorrow.
Rebuilt the NSR caliper, new rear pads, and an alternator.
He was most dischuffed to have the alternator go and brake caliper lock up three days before his MOT, but all being well we should have him sorted for test tomorrow.
badabec
Forum Supporter
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- 2,397
- Location
- Essex UK
My shared septic tank inspection chamber sometimes fills like that. I find rodding the out going pipe with a rubber disc on the end clears the problem. I also run a water hose into the chamber at the same time.
The drain rods were the best £25 I've ever spent.
Have been working on a Piaggio MP3 300 Yourban.
Been at another shop for a month and they had given up with it, so here we are...
None runner. Noticed no fuel pump prime at key on, no immobiliser led flashing and no cranking (starter solenoid controlled from PCM).
Quick diagnostic check, no communication to PCM.
20 minutes to find a decent wiring diagram and then a pin test on PCM connector (PCM is part of the throttle body).
Check for power and grounds at PCM, good ground, good key-on power, good continuity to diag connector, NO permanent battery live supply.
Traced wire (Red/Green) from fuse box and split wirng loom, bingo!.
Repaired wiring loom and got bike running but unfortunately not out of the woods yet.
It needs a replacement Parking (Tilt Lock) ecu as well. Have had to order one from France.
Had another one dropped off this afternoon for repair as well, MP3 500.
Has Parking ECU Eeprom error (normally means someone has tried calibrating the limit stops and made a mess off it).
Never a dull moment.
Been at another shop for a month and they had given up with it, so here we are...
None runner. Noticed no fuel pump prime at key on, no immobiliser led flashing and no cranking (starter solenoid controlled from PCM).
Quick diagnostic check, no communication to PCM.
20 minutes to find a decent wiring diagram and then a pin test on PCM connector (PCM is part of the throttle body).
Check for power and grounds at PCM, good ground, good key-on power, good continuity to diag connector, NO permanent battery live supply.
Traced wire (Red/Green) from fuse box and split wirng loom, bingo!.
Repaired wiring loom and got bike running but unfortunately not out of the woods yet.
It needs a replacement Parking (Tilt Lock) ecu as well. Have had to order one from France.
Had another one dropped off this afternoon for repair as well, MP3 500.
Has Parking ECU Eeprom error (normally means someone has tried calibrating the limit stops and made a mess off it).
Never a dull moment.
Had a Honda Transalp XL700va in, customer found a pair of genuine Showa forks NOS for £300!. His forks were leaking and stanchions pitted so a bloomin bargain really.
Originally booked in for steering head bearing replacement, one of the worst ones I've done for a while, had to cut the bearing cages out.
New bearings and forks fitted, happy days.
Gave it a good check over and found the rear aluminium suspension linkage had split, lucky we caught that really as that would have been nasty if bottom shock mounting had let go!.
Says it rides like a new bike after the head bearing and no surprise really.
Originally booked in for steering head bearing replacement, one of the worst ones I've done for a while, had to cut the bearing cages out.
New bearings and forks fitted, happy days.
Gave it a good check over and found the rear aluminium suspension linkage had split, lucky we caught that really as that would have been nasty if bottom shock mounting had let go!.
Says it rides like a new bike after the head bearing and no surprise really.
Yes they are on sealed needle roller bearings and the shocker ones had seized up.
All the rest were still perfectly fine!, replacement linkage got a good greasing before fitting.
We normally strap the bike to the bench and find a good spot on the engine to lift if there is no main stand and the swingarm needs to come out, or put the bike across the bench (motocross stuff mainly)
Used to have a chain winch in old shop mounted to the ceiling, that came in very handy!.
You may be able to get away with bike on sidestand and jack under engine to lift back wheel but if the stand is bolted to the engine that's not an option.
Mine were too, they must be 40 years old now.
