- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,170
- Location
- Going Away.
They came out of the bag marked UNC, the whit bag of fixings is in the play pen, some where.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,170
- Location
- Going Away.
This came my way.
I had no idea if it worked or not.
It had good batteries, well good in there day.
Made in 2008.
The insides have many components similar to the real thing.
Opening it up showed that the lifting gear had failed.
Marked in red.
Breaking the gear(yellow) and the main drive gear, not shown.
Tested and working.
Renault Master starter decided to commit hari-kari whilst we were over an hour from home last Saturday. I managed to bump start it and get home, then got it on ramps on the drive before switching it off, then set aboylut removal.
The damned thing isn't easily accessible - you have to remove the air intake and throttle body first (which are behind the radiator accessed from below), then after you get the 3 bolts out (the easiest bit) you find there's an OTT moulding and clip assembly that wraps around the solenoid, making getting the main live off and getting the motor out if a confined space a royal PITA.
Got a new starter today, and tackled the job tonight as it was at least dry weather. Suffice to say that getting it back in there was a lot more grief than getting the swine out! But - the camper is back up & running
The damned thing isn't easily accessible - you have to remove the air intake and throttle body first (which are behind the radiator accessed from below), then after you get the 3 bolts out (the easiest bit) you find there's an OTT moulding and clip assembly that wraps around the solenoid, making getting the main live off and getting the motor out if a confined space a royal PITA.
Got a new starter today, and tackled the job tonight as it was at least dry weather. Suffice to say that getting it back in there was a lot more grief than getting the swine out! But - the camper is back up & running
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 4,079
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I fixed an air drill that I first took apart years ago.
It ran but the front bearings were completely shot.
It's not surprising the bearings were shot as it had been used to drill 8mm holes in concrete underwater.
I turned it into a wet core drill by adding a water inlet so cut down wet diamond cores could be used.
It worked and they installed over 100 fixings for a fish pass.
I cleaned it out and oiled it after each use.
I took it apart to see what bearings it used and ordered a new set from Simply Bearings
Cleaned and oiled everything with airline oil (Kill Frost)
And reassembled
Works a treat now.
The copper pipe on the exhaust was so a pipe with a float could be installed to direct the air bubbles away from the divers.
The next pile of bits will give me something to do tomorrow evening.
It ran but the front bearings were completely shot.
It's not surprising the bearings were shot as it had been used to drill 8mm holes in concrete underwater.
I turned it into a wet core drill by adding a water inlet so cut down wet diamond cores could be used.
It worked and they installed over 100 fixings for a fish pass.
I cleaned it out and oiled it after each use.
I took it apart to see what bearings it used and ordered a new set from Simply Bearings
Cleaned and oiled everything with airline oil (Kill Frost)
And reassembled
Works a treat now.
The copper pipe on the exhaust was so a pipe with a float could be installed to direct the air bubbles away from the divers.
The next pile of bits will give me something to do tomorrow evening.
Bullet2012
Member
- Messages
- 5,364
- Location
- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
Works the bit that goes “ping”
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
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- 2,869
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
Is this a common fault, and should I get a spare now for my 250 Freeride?
I'm not a biker but I really like that bike to look at. Futuristic styling and a black and orange colour combo.
- Messages
- 13,532
- Location
- England
Tiny part of a huge setup, basically a routing manifold with lots of automated valves, allows product to go to and from 12 different silos to various machinery.
From what I can see it's KTM's produced in India that are at fault.
I use modified Champion plug caps now on these and replace the Bosch India spark plugs with NGK's.
You can't buy the OEM plug cap with the coil and lead (for the 125's at any rate) and the caps don't last.
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,408
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
fixed the old (its 30 in 2 years) quad... by making it go away. just as we get the last fault fixed, another one appears. this time its electrical. and one bridge too far.
goodbye...
oooooh. hello beautiful
a 2013 can-am outlander 400cc 4x4, with CVT low high selectable auto gearbox, fuel injection and, most importantly, shaft drive, with a proper front differential with a switchable centre diff. none of this silly mag locks for the front hubs.
registered for agricultural use, so no need for a mot and free tax.
oh and it has less than 500 hours on it.
that will do the job very nicely.
goodbye...
oooooh. hello beautiful
a 2013 can-am outlander 400cc 4x4, with CVT low high selectable auto gearbox, fuel injection and, most importantly, shaft drive, with a proper front differential with a switchable centre diff. none of this silly mag locks for the front hubs.
registered for agricultural use, so no need for a mot and free tax.
oh and it has less than 500 hours on it.
that will do the job very nicely.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,475
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Bugger, ours is occasionally clicking, I've been putting off replacing it, this doesn't give me any encouragementRenault Master starter decided to commit hari-kari whilst we were over an hour from home last Saturday. I managed to bump start it and get home, then got it on ramps on the drive before switching it off, then set aboylut removal.
The damned thing isn't easily accessible - you have to remove the air intake and throttle body first (which are behind the radiator accessed from below), then after you get the 3 bolts out (the easiest bit) you find there's an OTT moulding and clip assembly that wraps around the solenoid, making getting the main live off and getting the motor out if a confined space a royal PITA.
Got a new starter today, and tackled the job tonight as it was at least dry weather. Suffice to say that getting it back in there was a lot more grief than getting the swine out! But - the camper is back up & running
I think I learned a bit trying to change it. Based on getting the starter back on... I think the best way to do it & save a lot of my attempts. The following is after disconnecting my hab battery +ive connection to the starter battery, & removing the starter battery connections.....
1. Remove the air intake hose, then push it up out of the way and tie it up (it will keep falling in the way otherwise).
2. Undo wiring connector & then the 3 x 10mm headed bolts & drop out the throttle butterfly body & its metal gasket.
3. On the gearbox side, undo the 13mm that holds a bracket to the bell housing at the front.
4. Undo the tickle wire & the heavy +ive, and fight the swine off the starter. Move the cable & the weird plastic part that clips over the solenoid towards the radiator to get it clear of the starter. (Note there is a corrugated cable surround that clips into the bottom of this weird piece for one of the sensors - so unclip it to give you a bit more wiggle room).
5. Remove the 3 x 13mm head starter bolts (there is the lowest one that goes into the bell housing from the starter side (you need longish extensions)) - the other two are on the gearbox side (you'll need longish extensions). Note be very careful of the plasticky clutch cable connector that you have to work around - it looks flimsy & easy to break.
6. Wiggle the starter out and drop it down & out.
I found you have to get the new starter into place & bolts in first - the solenoid clip won't clear all the stuff around & above the area if you try to fit the cables first (like is easier on many starters) (ask me know I know
). Keep the cable & clip as far forward & out of the way as possible while getting the starter into place and lined up to get the bolts in.Then fight the solenoid half-moon cable thing & the main Live & tickle wire on. Refit the bracket I mentioned.
Then bung the butterfly body etc back on, reconnect power & you're done. Simples!
Note I bought a Bosch replacement from NAPA as they are a few units away from work & I could hand them my old one to save faff with a 45 quid surcharge. Price was OK at £110 + vat (A Napa was 85-quid, but I decided I'd try to avoid doing the job again anytime soon).
I still have to change oil & filter, and do the gearbox oil (gearbox paranoia & got in the recommended Elf stuff) - and fit the aftermarket undertray I've bought.
Oh yes - and my jack point boxes on the front are predictably crunchy
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,342
- Location
- Manchester UK
Well, I joined in today with the "Car fixers brigade", my pal is under pressure with a lot of work on so I decided not to take the P and give him another job (and jump the que in the process). Tinkerbell's VW had thrown up a fault which was "defective Glow Plugs" or something like that, anyway following the advice I recieved I bought an exact replacement and set to, the biggest job was getting the ridiculous plastic engine cover off. I decided to do as little dismantling as possible and before I started I drove around for a while getting the temp up. Bit of releasing fluid down the hole too, then slowly and steadily apply some force to the 3/8" breaker bar. I wasnt too sure about this orange handle malarkey when I bought it but I know the thing well now and have faith in it. I was pleased when it cracked off and I kept the pressure on and nice and slowly undid it just fine:
Used a dab of ceramic grease before I reassembled the thing and as you can see from the pics I dismantled nothing other than pulling the plug cap off, the less you mess the less will go wrong. All back together and it took me longer to get the air line out than it took to do the whole job. Thankfully.
Used a dab of ceramic grease before I reassembled the thing and as you can see from the pics I dismantled nothing other than pulling the plug cap off, the less you mess the less will go wrong. All back together and it took me longer to get the air line out than it took to do the whole job. Thankfully.
sparkysy
If it pays happy days!!
- Messages
- 1,285
- Location
- northamptonshire
Nice!
When I tried to do my vauxhalls injectors I couldn't budge them.
Ended up getting a chap with a hydraulic puller to come and do them, two snapped off and one took 8 tonnes before it let go. Luckily they didn't damage owt round it.
The guy managed to get the broken off ones out as well without removing the head. Top bloke!
When I tried to do my vauxhalls injectors I couldn't budge them.
Ended up getting a chap with a hydraulic puller to come and do them, two snapped off and one took 8 tonnes before it let go. Luckily they didn't damage owt round it.
The guy managed to get the broken off ones out as well without removing the head. Top bloke!
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,214
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I 'fixed' two Parkside grinders today.
The first one failed after probably less than 10 hours of use and Parkside sent me a replacement without me having to return the broken one.
Unfortunately, the replacement did not last long either. On both grinders, I suspected that the fault was on the speed control units as they always felt warm and on one, the magic smoke appeared while I was using it.
The first grinder I opened up.
I couldn't see physical damage/definite signs of damage to the controller but I bypassed it nonetheless. I kept the controller in there otherwise there will be a gap in the body where the speed adjustment dial was.
On the second grinder, the damage was easier to see.
I bypassed that speed control unit too and I now have two cheap grinders (without speed control) in working condition again.
How long they will last this time is anyone's guess.
The first one failed after probably less than 10 hours of use and Parkside sent me a replacement without me having to return the broken one.
Unfortunately, the replacement did not last long either. On both grinders, I suspected that the fault was on the speed control units as they always felt warm and on one, the magic smoke appeared while I was using it.
The first grinder I opened up.
I couldn't see physical damage/definite signs of damage to the controller but I bypassed it nonetheless. I kept the controller in there otherwise there will be a gap in the body where the speed adjustment dial was.
On the second grinder, the damage was easier to see.
I bypassed that speed control unit too and I now have two cheap grinders (without speed control) in working condition again.
How long they will last this time is anyone's guess.
