Stuff you have fixed today

[RichardM]

Eventually got one of the xj650 carbs fixed. No pic of the big lump of copper heatsink...
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I couldn't risk tackling the fillet weld next to that float valve...

Nice job, must admit taking the pin out always has me a bit nervous.

 

[indy4x]

Went from this


To this



It's the EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Centre) in my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee

No its not the coolant sensor as that tested fine. Seems to be a common problem as lots have had this issue.

The issue is some of the solder joints inside the EVIC fracture, the ones circled in red are the usual suspects



In with a soldering iron to reflow and add a little dab of solder and its all sorted

 

[Seadog]

I hope that you used leaded solder.

 

[JOEPRO]

Installed - another diesel heater post....
Located where I want it. Got the air and exhaust outlets cored drilled. Needed more pipework than supplied which was cheap enough. Got some 45 deg bends as well. Stick on measure so I can work out consumption. Cables tidied and PSU in cabinet below on a shelf.

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Waiting for some P-clips for the air pipe and will put a plastic hat on the comedy air filter intake as pretty sure that will get soaked/water in. Idea behind the pipe bends is that when its all clipped in place, I only need to disconnect 2 clamps and pull the whole thing away from inside to service or whatever. Have an air quality meter above it by coincidence and apart from initial exhaust pipe crap burn off it's clean as.

View attachment 479418

Been using it for about a week, draws about 25w on the PSU after initial 100w or so start up. I'm saving 60% over 2kw heater versus diesel consumption. I like the heat spread as well, kicks it out well and even RH seems down over electric. Well happy.

Nice install

Do you have a link for the air intake pipe and the air intake pipe bends please? I need some of them for adjusting my setup to include for a radiator.

 

[indy4x]

I hope that you used leaded solder.

Of course, apparently the original is lead free from what I've read on the Internet

 

[sako243]

I hope that you used leaded solder.

The lead free stuff these days is far nicer to use than leaded solder. Last time I used leaded was for a repair on a piece of equipment destined for a RN Submarine.

https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/3099075-m/solder-pb-free-hi-act-0-7mm-500g/dp/SD00971

 

[Seadog]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

 

[Maker]

Almost everything we do at work (Avionics) uses leaded solder.

 

[Robotstar5]

The lead free stuff these days is far nicer to use than leaded solder. Last time I used leaded was for a repair on a piece of equipment destined for a RN Submarine.

https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/3099075-m/solder-pb-free-hi-act-0-7mm-500g/dp/SD00971

Maybe they've improved it by now, when it first came out I found it difficult to work with, wouldn't "wet" or flow like the leaded type I was used to, maybe I should have changed my technique?.
Still got a few rolls of leaded which will outlast my needs.

 

[sako243]

Maybe they've improved it by now, when it first came out I found it difficult to work with, wouldn't "wet" or flow like the leaded type I was used to, maybe I should have changed my technique?.
Still got a few rolls of leaded which will outlast my needs.

It melts slightly higher than leaded stuff but I've not had an issue with wetting. My normal solder station I normally have set to 230(ish)°C

 

[Gragson]

Nice install

Do you have a link for the air intake pipe and the air intake pipe bends please? I need some of them for adjusting my setup to include for a radiator.

Hi, these are the hoses, they came within a week for me.

Pardon our interruption...

Pardon our interruption...

I got the alloy 90 deg 22mm OD elbows locally and cut them down

 

[JOEPRO]

Hi, these are the hoses, they came within a week for me.

Pardon our interruption...

Pardon our interruption...

I got the alloy 90 deg 22mm OD elbows locally and cut them down

Thanks for that- for the bends I can bend my own 22mm copper pipe which will do the trick. I'll maybe etch prime and spray em black too.

 

[minimutly]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

From memory the solder supplied with the Heathkit stuff we used as apprentices smelled of pork sausages...

 

[dobbslc]

That was you burning your fingers!

 

[Farside]

That was you burning your fingers!

See smoke, remove thumb.

 

[Cobbler]

See smoke, remove thumb.

That’s a bit drastic

 

[pawsnizzy]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

It's more to do with the uncontrollable 'whiskering' of unleaded solder, potentially lethal (and therefore not used) in aerospace/defence applications

 

[bricol]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

Which, according to my Lucas Aerospace (as was) working mate was why they used crimp terminals rather than solder ones - didn't wick up the wire and cause the break up under the insulation.

So working on the theory of what's good enough for them . . . my much vibration suffering trials car hasn't had a wiring failure in 20 yrs of abuse, wired from scratch by me.

 

[Seadog]

You can't crimp components onto the boards, though. But a valid comment for wiring.

 

[sako243]

Which, according to my Lucas Aerospace (as was) working mate was why they used crimp terminals rather than solder ones - didn't wick up the wire and cause the break up under the insulation.

So working on the theory of what's good enough for them . . . my much vibration suffering trials car hasn't had a wiring failure in 20 yrs of abuse, wired from scratch by me.

You can't crimp components onto the boards, though. But a valid comment for wiring.

Crimped connectors are preferred because they are repeatable and can used calibrated equipment to ensure repeatability and therefore reliability. Soldering connections can be done but requires skilled workers to do it (like welding a joint vs bolting it) therefore is not as repeatable nor reliable. For some connections (high speed or high frequency RF) you have no option but to solder them because they're ****ed if they are crimped.

To emphasise just how skilled you might need be to be here's a first hand account. My old job we were having a lot of failures of a particular system we were building - it was failing production tests. A colleague of mine did some investigating and tracked it down to a particular component, an OCXO (oven controlled crystal oscillator) and furthermore tracked it down to a batch of them from the manufacturer. They were duly removed from the circuit board (no mean feat) and shipped back to the supplier in the states at great cost given this single chip was a sizable percentage of the PCB's cost which was in 5 digits.

The manufacturer did some analysis of their own and examined the batch - it was narrowed down to a batch of solder if I recall correctly which had slightly different characteristics (these oscillators had their own PCB inside the oven). This resulted in roughly 1% more solder begin deposited on a single wired connection inside the device. That was enough to completely shaft the performance of the system it was built into.