The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
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The last image tells most you need to change hands after 99.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
- Messages
- 20,252
- Location
- Going Away.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 13,005
- Location
- NE London - UK
Had an interesting little repair job from a local chap that finds me odd jobs to do.
A 50 year old B&D drill, a DNJ250 as far as I can make out which was his father's. Intermittent and unreliable operation of the trigger switch.
When stripped it was easy to see why.
The top contact should be spring loaded, it isn't and it's also not sitting in the right position.
In fact it's stuck to the plastic where sparking has caused overheating and softening. Why they didn't use a thermosetting plastic I've no idea.
By heating with a small soldering iron I was able to prise the contact away, and remove it.
Quite a mess. That supposed to be a slot with a spring pushing against the bottom of the contact.
The sparking has caused the Paxolin switch backcover to burn through, too. This, as it progressed, would have meant more sparking and therefore more heat. Fortunately I had a piece of Paxolin from my grandfather, so probably 90 odd year old. I do love the smell when cutting phenolic products.
The original was 1.5mm, the replacement piece 2mm, so I had to file the locating ears to get them to fit the slots.
A 50 year old B&D drill, a DNJ250 as far as I can make out which was his father's. Intermittent and unreliable operation of the trigger switch.
When stripped it was easy to see why.
The top contact should be spring loaded, it isn't and it's also not sitting in the right position.
In fact it's stuck to the plastic where sparking has caused overheating and softening. Why they didn't use a thermosetting plastic I've no idea.
By heating with a small soldering iron I was able to prise the contact away, and remove it.
Quite a mess. That supposed to be a slot with a spring pushing against the bottom of the contact.
The sparking has caused the Paxolin switch backcover to burn through, too. This, as it progressed, would have meant more sparking and therefore more heat. Fortunately I had a piece of Paxolin from my grandfather, so probably 90 odd year old. I do love the smell when cutting phenolic products.
The original was 1.5mm, the replacement piece 2mm, so I had to file the locating ears to get them to fit the slots.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 13,005
- Location
- NE London - UK
Next up I had to address the problem of the contact and its housing. And the little ping feckit which disappeared from the bench 
My instrument spring selection were all too strong so I turned to my amassed springs.
Lo, something that I can work with.
I filed out the damaged portion of the trigger and then glued a piece of Paxolin in to place and filed to size and refashioned the hole for the spring.
I used a high strength super glue with the addition of sodium bicarbonate to hold it together.
Assembled and tested OK.
My instrument spring selection were all too strong so I turned to my amassed springs.
Lo, something that I can work with.
I filed out the damaged portion of the trigger and then glued a piece of Paxolin in to place and filed to size and refashioned the hole for the spring.
I used a high strength super glue with the addition of sodium bicarbonate to hold it together.
Assembled and tested OK.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
- Messages
- 20,252
- Location
- Going Away.
Just seen this, I have OE grease, from B&D.
May even have a spare switch
Another cast iron gate, 4 this month getting the hang of this now
Roots had grown down and snapped the joint at the top, no support in wall either.
Hacked it out, welded m12 back plate and screwed in a 100mm x m12 stainless coach bolt, although just noticed my m8 decided to use the brush when I took pic..
Then but welde the top and added heavy fillet welds then welded sides together as well. Should be a lot stronger now.
And the gate now shuts lol
Roots had grown down and snapped the joint at the top, no support in wall either.
Hacked it out, welded m12 back plate and screwed in a 100mm x m12 stainless coach bolt, although just noticed my m8 decided to use the brush when I took pic..
Then but welde the top and added heavy fillet welds then welded sides together as well. Should be a lot stronger now.
And the gate now shuts lol
Twice in the same week.
I'm now expecting Karma to balance things out with whatever broken bolt I need to remove next, and result in a multi-day removal epic involving eyewatering expense...
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 13,005
- Location
- NE London - UK
Another little job completed for a mate.
A piece rescued from a skip. Part of a larger piece judging by the damage to the bottom lead strips.
Fortunately I came across some lead ages ago. It's weathered nicely in the garden, but another example of value of the 'Don't throw anything away' mantra.
One of two pieces cut from the tangle.
Using my trusty Solon 65W iron, a stainless steel brush, and some Telux flux, it's now back together. A brass loop was also fashioned from a piece of scrap, shaped, and soldered to the top, so that he can hang it somewhere.
A piece rescued from a skip. Part of a larger piece judging by the damage to the bottom lead strips.
Fortunately I came across some lead ages ago. It's weathered nicely in the garden, but another example of value of the 'Don't throw anything away' mantra.
One of two pieces cut from the tangle.
Using my trusty Solon 65W iron, a stainless steel brush, and some Telux flux, it's now back together. A brass loop was also fashioned from a piece of scrap, shaped, and soldered to the top, so that he can hang it somewhere.
Blobber
Forum Supporter
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- lincolnshire
Nice, I really like proper old stained glass windows
qwakers
Member
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- cornwall, united kingdom
in between going to the dentist today i got a lot done to my latest welding car job....
the last of the welding.
the last of my jotun 87 mixed up and applied to the sans-paint areas of the car.
just paint work to do now on the car, then a mot and sell it. well, i might have already sold it so.... win-win really
the last of the welding.
the last of my jotun 87 mixed up and applied to the sans-paint areas of the car.
just paint work to do now on the car, then a mot and sell it. well, i might have already sold it so.... win-win really
qwakers
Member
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- 2,717
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
i keep telling people 1k stone chip is not waterproof. I've even said it on here and not been believed. this is not factory stone chip, and this is what it looks like after wire wheeling off. it looked fine except for right at the front at the edge on the wing.
it wont stop the rust guys, it encapsulates nothing, ergo is not waterproof.
it wont stop the rust guys, it encapsulates nothing, ergo is not waterproof.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
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- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
I take it it’ll get a full vinyl wrap on completion?
