JOEPRO
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Convenient for sure its just been my personal experience that they leak long before they ever became useful as the vark found out.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Moose McAlpine
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- 1,609
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- Norf Lund'n
Put a new flywheel in the Sprinter yesterday. Of course it started raining halfway through. Under the van was fine, but my feet sticking out the sides got quite wet.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- Keeler crater
Anyone remember this time last year I acquired a brand new, not working coffee grinder? I dismantled it, tested a few components, decided I was out of my depth and left it in pieces on the healing bench. Well today I channelled my inner CuriousMarc, probed a few more components, then I spotted it;
View attachment 430824
Burnt track after D7.Bridged with a bit of TCW, an hour wrestling the case back together and it's good as new.
View attachment 430825
I'm assuming the track was damaged from the factory rather than another fault drawing more current than the track can handle, its not the thinnest part of the track so it would have burnt somewhere else if that were the case.
Would you believe it, I told the friend who bought the grinder originally that I'd managed to fix it, and he tells me the new one gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago!
He's had it refunded under warranty luckily, and we've just swapped, so he's got a working one again and I've got another one to fix...
Different problem this time, it runs but not at a constant speed, it pulses fast then goes all slow and laboured in-between pulses. It didn't take much prodding and poking to find a 0.33uF polyester capacitor measuring 90nF. All I've got to hand are axial leaded 0.15uF caps, rather than wait for the right part I just hot snotted a pair of those down so I can get it back together today.
I somehow managed to pull four pads off the board desoldering another capacitor on the other side of the board, so I've made a bit of a pigs ear of the soldering to stick it back down. I also managed to pick up the board while it was plugged in, that f-ing hurt.
I don't think it's likely that another fault would degrade a capacitor, it think it was just a Chinese crapacitor. Having said that I won't be surprised to find it stops working in a few weeks.
So that's two I've repaired now. If anyone's in the market for a coffee grinder, I'd suggest steering well clear of the Wilfa Svart. Supposedly designed in Norway "With a focus on design, quality, safety and innovation", but I'm pretty confident it's just whitelabel imported skip fodder. There's a sticker on that PCB and on the motor, "FCG1317", Google that and it brings up the original machine, for the equivalent of about 64 quid.
Last edited:
Dcal
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- 4,070
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
It came apart no issue.
I tapped the impeller M5 and made a simple puller.
The bearings are cheap so two SKF 6201zz ordered.
Be interesting to see if it runs again and more importantly, if it quieter. (Has to be)
The replacement pump is not putting up any pressure but it works, sort of, so I'll use it for now and have another look when I try out the original pump.
It might have an inbuilt bypass or relief valve but it did look awful simple.
Brad93
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- 19,098
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- Essex, United Kingdom
I've not had one of those apart i'm afraid, only the procon type. Like you say fairly simple. rotary seal, bearings, impeller
Brad93
Member
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- 19,098
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
How did you test the capacitance whilst still on the board?Would you believe it, I told the friend who bought the grinder originally that I'd managed to fix it, and he tells me the new one gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago!
He's had it refunded under warranty luckily, and we've just swapped, so he's got a working one again and I've got another one to fix...
Different problem this time, it runs but not at a constant speed, it pulses fast then goes all slow and laboured in-between pulses. It didn't take much prodding and poking to find a 0.33uF polyester capacitor measuring 90nF. All I've got to hand are axial leaded 0.15uF caps, rather than wait for the right part I just hot snotted a pair of those down so I can get it back together today.
View attachment 431959
I somehow managed to pull four pads off the board desoldering another capacitor on the other side of the board, so I've made a bit of a pigs ear of the soldering to stick it back down. I also managed to pick up the board while it was plugged in, that f-ing hurt.
I don't think it's likely that another fault would degrade a capacitor, it think it was just a Chinese crapacitor. Having said that I won't be surprised to find it stops working in a few weeks.
So that's two I've repaired now. If anyone's in the market for a coffee grinder, I'd suggest steering well clear of the Wilfa Svart. Supposedly designed in Norway "With a focus on design, quality, safety and innovation", but I'm pretty confident it's just whitelabel imported skip fodder. There's a sticker on that PCB and on the motor, "FCG1317", Google that and it brings up the original machine, for the equivalent of about 64 quid.
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Yes, it was rubbing slightly on the back faces, but it doesn't look like the vanes were touching.
The machining is pretty rough so it might be ok.
The, shaft has 0.01mm runout (or my lathe has) so I don't think it's bent but there's some damage where the seals runs.
The bearings were truly shot so for a £10 it worth seeing if I can revive it.
I didn't order C3 bearings, just standard clearance, I don't know if that was the right choice.
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
You wont need C3 for that. The shaft wont get hot with water running through the pump head
C3 is just increased internal clearance for if your bearing is being compressed in the housing due to the interference fit/shaft expanding inner ring due to interference fit or heat generated during operation requireds greater clearance for correct running in normal working conditions.
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
That was my thinking too.
I think the standard bearings have tighter clearances when cold which should suit this application.
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
I doubt anything but standard bearings were used in the pumps construction. Bearing clearances have only become the topic of serious debate with the advent of monitoring equipment and techniques that were not possible 30-40 years ago.
I think alot of the problems with bearings nowadays in how, where and to what standard they are made. How come so many old brooks, gec, metropolitan vickers motors etc are running on original bearings with less than ideal maintenance intervals. Old Hoffman, R&M etc bearings were completely ground/lapped, every surface. Nowadays, its quite common to see only the ID/OD and raceway ground. The seal area and grease area are rough machined, the faces are just blanchard ground pretty rough.
RobCox
Member
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- 525
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- Cambridge, UK
Finished off this box today:
It arrived a week ago looking a bit more tatty:
and contained this level:
The main brick laying sensitivity level has been removed (undamaged!) as well as the yellow one at the end, I've cleaned it up and scraped the bottom flat as it was far too far out for the 0.02mm/m vial I'll be fitting to it. The pic was taken during scraping, it's a bit better than that now:
It arrived a week ago looking a bit more tatty:
and contained this level:
The main brick laying sensitivity level has been removed (undamaged!) as well as the yellow one at the end, I've cleaned it up and scraped the bottom flat as it was far too far out for the 0.02mm/m vial I'll be fitting to it. The pic was taken during scraping, it's a bit better than that now:
Small wins today.
Managed to convert this, complete with seized pins, and one sheared retaining bolt -
Into this -
Through the use of the TIG to provide a bit heat -
Also found out why one of the wheel bearings was feeling a touch rough...
Might get the driveshafts UJs changed tomorrow, and get the hub carriers back on, ready for the next batch of parts arriving, or if I feel motivated enough (I've finally succumb to the cold/flu that's been doing the rounds :/ ), I might get the rest of the front axle dropped off, and change the main pivot pin and bushes to try and reduce the slight 3/4" play between the axle and buffer plates.
Managed to convert this, complete with seized pins, and one sheared retaining bolt -
Into this -
Through the use of the TIG to provide a bit heat -
Also found out why one of the wheel bearings was feeling a touch rough...
Might get the driveshafts UJs changed tomorrow, and get the hub carriers back on, ready for the next batch of parts arriving, or if I feel motivated enough (I've finally succumb to the cold/flu that's been doing the rounds :/ ), I might get the rest of the front axle dropped off, and change the main pivot pin and bushes to try and reduce the slight 3/4" play between the axle and buffer plates.
Brake Caliper season for me recently, people think you can treat a Motorcycle like a car and get away with it.
First one, pistons seized into calipers. Took them to bits to find someone had pulled the dust seals out at some point (typical bodge it and scarper hack..). Pad pins seized into calipers.
The last one was a 900cc Triumph, bald front tyre and front brake "has a sandy feeling". Pads worn down to metal backing ffs and pistons seized into caliper body.
Chain was hanging off as well so he's having to wait for new chain and sprockets to arrive..
Amazing what people will ride around on without checking even simple safety stuff like brakes and tires!.
Some people begrudge paying for an annual service but both these would have been nipped in the bud long before they got this bad.
First one, pistons seized into calipers. Took them to bits to find someone had pulled the dust seals out at some point (typical bodge it and scarper hack..). Pad pins seized into calipers.
The last one was a 900cc Triumph, bald front tyre and front brake "has a sandy feeling". Pads worn down to metal backing ffs and pistons seized into caliper body.
Chain was hanging off as well so he's having to wait for new chain and sprockets to arrive..
Amazing what people will ride around on without checking even simple safety stuff like brakes and tires!.
Some people begrudge paying for an annual service but both these would have been nipped in the bud long before they got this bad.
dobbslc
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Car drivers riding motorcycles
Piaggio MP3 500 Steering tower service.
Came out of the factory with wrong bearing pre-load and seems no-one else will repair them so a fair few end up on my bench..
If you catch them early enough it's a couple of hours, if the bearings are too far gone (brinelling), it's a days labour to strip it all down and replace them.
They should have all be done on PDI..
Came out of the factory with wrong bearing pre-load and seems no-one else will repair them so a fair few end up on my bench..
If you catch them early enough it's a couple of hours, if the bearings are too far gone (brinelling), it's a days labour to strip it all down and replace them.
They should have all be done on PDI..
Customer snapped off 2 exhaust studs when "taking his exhaust off to clean it".
They were stuck solid (tried heating the head with no joy), engineer wanted the head removed to mill them out (can't blame him really).
I managed to drill them both our to 6.3mm and run an M7x1.0 thread down (basically making a tread insert in situ). Early Honda Fireblades use an M8/M7 hybrid stud so two of these worked a treat.
Probably took me an hour a stud but worth it to avoid taking the head off! (plus the cost involved with that).
Personal I'd have cut the nuts off the studs to start with but damage already done.
They were stuck solid (tried heating the head with no joy), engineer wanted the head removed to mill them out (can't blame him really).
I managed to drill them both our to 6.3mm and run an M7x1.0 thread down (basically making a tread insert in situ). Early Honda Fireblades use an M8/M7 hybrid stud so two of these worked a treat.
Probably took me an hour a stud but worth it to avoid taking the head off! (plus the cost involved with that).
Personal I'd have cut the nuts off the studs to start with but damage already done.
