8ob
Member
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- 14,444
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- Nescient in the vale
I reckon you are right, in the wrong hands they are lethal. Think tyre fitters
Bob
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
I reckon you are right, in the wrong hands they are lethal. Think tyre fitters
Bob
I simply can't bring myself to pay that much for a big tin can, knowing my grandparents, and parents, chucked much much better ones.£35 for a new coal scuttle? No thanks
View attachment 420433View attachment 420434View attachment 420435
It was like welding tin foil but got it done and the metal is stronger than a new one would be anyway
So I have a lin-bin to one side carrying enough for a mid-evening top-up, away from the heat, topped up from a repurposed plastic 20 ltr paint tub sat in the kitchen
qwakers
Member
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- 2,506
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
my lorry decided it didnt want to be watertight...
in the storm last week I discovered my cooker hob full of water and my ceiling wet.. ohhhh dear.
all that time ago when I fitted my solar panels I used 2 1 meter roofing battens bolted to the roof skin with riv-nuts to hold them. I did it in a hurry and the plan was to come back and fibreglass over the battens to make it totally waterproof. of course I promptly forgot about it and 5 years later it separated from the sealant I used and water poured in.... oops.
so i make a couple of alloy box sections up and fitted them instead, because y'know, wood isn't waterproof, and riveted the panels to them.
that'll work.
in the storm last week I discovered my cooker hob full of water and my ceiling wet.. ohhhh dear.
all that time ago when I fitted my solar panels I used 2 1 meter roofing battens bolted to the roof skin with riv-nuts to hold them. I did it in a hurry and the plan was to come back and fibreglass over the battens to make it totally waterproof. of course I promptly forgot about it and 5 years later it separated from the sealant I used and water poured in.... oops.
so i make a couple of alloy box sections up and fitted them instead, because y'know, wood isn't waterproof, and riveted the panels to them.
that'll work.
Nomad
Member
- Messages
- 2,151
- Location
- North Devon (for how long?)
I fixed my garage roof - it was leaking when I got the keys 5 years ago and I’d run out of temporary patches so had to do it properly this time 
Old roof held up with pit props, home to several colonies of slugs
Old joists and timber replaced
then @just@ go and pick up a 1.2 x 2.4 sheet of OSB using the trusty workhorse.
The main problem was it’s in Wales - and they have folk driving 15mph to avoid speeding tickets in 20mph zones !
Old roof held up with pit props, home to several colonies of slugs
Old joists and timber replaced
then @just@ go and pick up a 1.2 x 2.4 sheet of OSB using the trusty workhorse.
The main problem was it’s in Wales - and they have folk driving 15mph to avoid speeding tickets in 20mph zones !
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
- Messages
- 2,541
- Location
- The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
What's wrong with a piece of string?
Don't know who made the cisterns in my bathrooms, and can't find matching lever and plastic pivot bracket, so 3D printed the brackets, piece of 16mm stainless tube each for handles - look odd, but work.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 6,284
- Location
- Ireland
A Hemorrhoid Blue Marina Estate!
Used to have one, RGA 40M, total workhorse with the 1.8 engine.
In Wales, in an earlier century too by the looks of it...I fixed my garage roof - it was leaking when I got the keys 5 years ago and I’d run out of temporary patches so had to do it properly this time
Old roof held up with pit props, home to several colonies of slugs
View attachment 420579
Old joists and timber replaced
View attachment 420580
then @just@ go and pick up a 1.2 x 2.4 sheet of OSB using the trusty workhorse.
View attachment 420578
The main problem was it’s in Wales - and they have folk driving 15mph to avoid speeding tickets in 20mph zones !
RaceDiagnostics
Member
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- 3,425
- Location
- Broughty Ferry
My doorbell started ringing randomly after all the rain, it seems like an old rubber spacer had absorbed some moisture and become marginally conductive. So time to make a new one.
The problem spacer.
Found a bit of PVC plastic rod.
Threaded.
Push fit, I may have to knurl and glue it in if it works lose.
Job done, M8 for rear wire connection.
The problem spacer.
Found a bit of PVC plastic rod.
Threaded.
Push fit, I may have to knurl and glue it in if it works lose.
Job done, M8 for rear wire connection.
I really could do with a “what I fooked up today” thread....
Anyway, a 4 inch slitting saw, scrap. Must be the 3rd one now, ripped some teeth out, lodged in the job. perhaps I need to look up appropriate speeds and feeds for these things....
Anyway, a 4 inch slitting saw, scrap. Must be the 3rd one now, ripped some teeth out, lodged in the job. perhaps I need to look up appropriate speeds and feeds for these things....
ajlelectronics
Member
- Messages
- 10,921
- Location
- Gloucester, England
Blobber
Forum Supporter
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- 3,383
- Location
- lincolnshire
Now winters coming I though I best give the heating the once over, the underfloor heating pump is always temperamental and sticks when not used so Im assuming the water additive is not doing its stuff, being a sealed system and im a cheap skate I just got a ltr bottle, the tubes/bottles with the vent adaptors are 2/3 times the price for less splosh 
I thought I had a radiator around with the large style vent plug so I could use a funnel and a bit of pipe but it appears not
Oh well Ill knock the top of the system, take a lock-shield off and wack it straight down a pipe, sorted
I thought I had a radiator around with the large style vent plug so I could use a funnel and a bit of pipe but it appears not
Oh well Ill knock the top of the system, take a lock-shield off and wack it straight down a pipe, sorted
A magnet type filter is a worthwhile investment, makes this kind of thing a bit easier too.Now winters coming I though I best give the heating the once over, the underfloor heating pump is always temperamental and sticks when not used so Im assuming the water additive is not doing its stuff, being a sealed system and im a cheap skate I just got a ltr bottle, the tubes/bottles with the vent adaptors are 2/3 times the price for less splosh
View attachment 421198
I thought I had a radiator around with the large style vent plug so I could use a funnel and a bit of pipe but it appears not
View attachment 421199
Oh well Ill knock the top of the system, take a lock-shield off and wack it straight down a pipe, sorted
View attachment 421200
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,966
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Unless the bloody EXPENSIVE Pegler valves either side decide to let by!
Tbf, the old single pipe system hadn't been flushed in 50 years! I might have been better with the flush rig type with a big magnet in. I added 2 lots of cleaner a couple of weeks prior. Then a kilo of citric acid to the rig reservoir and flushed for 24 hours, alternating direction. The crud that came out was incredible.
Just had to 'fix' the diesel heater for the workshop.
Having the luxury of fitting an Afterburner to it, I can turn it on while still sat the computer, so thought I'd turn it on as I needed to go do some wiring.
Happened to check the web interface after a while, and it was showing Failed to ignite. Reset it, tried again, and could see the glow plug and fuel pump were doing their jobs, but chamber temp wasn't rising, so had to go out and actually look at it.
It was making a gurgling sound. The exhaust had been pointing where it shouldn't, so was full of water. Quick manoeuvre to drain most of the water out, and it fired up as normal, albeit with a bit steam and some blue smoke from unburnt fuel, but it cleared in a couple minutes.
Having the luxury of fitting an Afterburner to it, I can turn it on while still sat the computer, so thought I'd turn it on as I needed to go do some wiring.
Happened to check the web interface after a while, and it was showing Failed to ignite. Reset it, tried again, and could see the glow plug and fuel pump were doing their jobs, but chamber temp wasn't rising, so had to go out and actually look at it.
It was making a gurgling sound. The exhaust had been pointing where it shouldn't, so was full of water. Quick manoeuvre to drain most of the water out, and it fired up as normal, albeit with a bit steam and some blue smoke from unburnt fuel, but it cleared in a couple minutes.
DickyDoDah
Member
- Messages
- 280
- Location
- Witshire, UK
I managed to pick up a car for free, yes FREE from Freecycle a couple of weeks ago as it had a dodgy clutch and they had been quoted almost the value of the car to fix it. Don't get excited it's only a Mk1 Vauxhall Agila but it runs.
Easy fix I thought as they said they couldn't get it into gear at times. Five minutes adjusting the cable and all seemed well Strangely after 20ish miles it was back to being hard/impossible to put in gear. Very odd I thought but decided to buy a clutch kit, OMG what a palaver! took me about 3 days of searching to get the right one and at a reasonable price.
Well today I finally got the gearbox out, not that it was difficult I just couldn't be arsed to spend much time on it. Now I know why it was a bit problematic in the gear changes
No chance of removing the shaft as it had been welded after inserting into the bushes. They didn't even weld all the way around and worse still the bit the left was the weakest point. Only two options, fix it or scrap it. A fix would mean another gearbox so that went out the window and scrapping it would be a pain as it was in bits. I decided to actually... and I apologise for saying this on a welding forum.... weld it 200amps and 1mm wire in my MIG and not a bad result
It's going back in the car tomorrow and I reckon it will outlast the rest of the car. The one downside is that the clutchplate was not really worn so I could have gotten away with just a new thrust bearing but it was only £40 more for the whole kit.
Easy fix I thought as they said they couldn't get it into gear at times. Five minutes adjusting the cable and all seemed well
Strangely after 20ish miles it was back to being hard/impossible to put in gear. Very odd I thought but decided to buy a clutch kit, OMG what a palaver! took me about 3 days of searching to get the right one and at a reasonable price.Well today I finally got the gearbox out, not that it was difficult I just couldn't be arsed to spend much time on it. Now I know why it was a bit problematic in the gear changes
No chance of removing the shaft as it had been welded after inserting into the bushes. They didn't even weld all the way around and worse still the bit the left was the weakest point. Only two options, fix it or scrap it. A fix would mean another gearbox so that went out the window and scrapping it would be a pain as it was in bits. I decided to actually... and I apologise for saying this on a welding forum.... weld it
200amps and 1mm wire in my MIG and not a bad result It's going back in the car tomorrow and I reckon it will outlast the rest of the car. The one downside is that the clutchplate was not really worn so I could have gotten away with just a new thrust bearing but it was only £40 more for the whole kit.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,799
- Location
- Teesside, England
Not today but Monday and not exactly fixed, but... had a breakdown callout from a customer 180 miles away. Radiation warning light not working.
Drove down, was told they'd tried a new LED cluster to no avail. So I swapped the cluster from one lamp unit to another and it worked, which meant there was no supply geting to the lamp unit.
Now, a requirement of the Ionising Radiation Regs is that no x-rays may be generated if all lamps arent lit, hence they couldn't do any work, so the system was doing what it should. But how do you know if the monitoring circuit for the lamps is working? In this case we fit a pushbutton so that when you put the system into Test mode, you can manually switch all the lamps on or off to check if the monitoring drops the interlocks out.
Someone had left the button in the OFF position...
That'll be £1000 please.
Drove down, was told they'd tried a new LED cluster to no avail. So I swapped the cluster from one lamp unit to another and it worked, which meant there was no supply geting to the lamp unit.
Now, a requirement of the Ionising Radiation Regs is that no x-rays may be generated if all lamps arent lit, hence they couldn't do any work, so the system was doing what it should. But how do you know if the monitoring circuit for the lamps is working? In this case we fit a pushbutton so that when you put the system into Test mode, you can manually switch all the lamps on or off to check if the monitoring drops the interlocks out.
Someone had left the button in the OFF position...
That'll be £1000 please.
