Olderisbetter
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- 3,951
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- Wolverhampton
Fixed the coffin, all the UV LEDs had gone pop when the wrong voltage was used to power them
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Gas gas.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
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- 2,962
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 6,366
- Location
- Ireland
Eat fewer beans.
The axles are a 1 1/8" square, which is an odd size but apparently standard. The new bearings have a different PCD spacing, so I had to slot the holes.
The discs have spun on the shaft and stuffed the end of the axle, mainly because the nuts on teh end undo as they spin. If I could buy 1 1/8" square steel, I would make new axles. It is available in the US, but not in modern countries that have discovered metrics.
I built up the edges with the gasless mig, and precission machined it with the angle grinder. One axle had no big washer on the end, so I made one. The square hole is a piece of 35*35mm box section, which fitted into a spare round plate I had cut years ago for a linisher wheel. Welded in, slopped on plate and good. The nuts I did up as tight as I could by standaing on a pipe on teh end of my 600mm adustable wrench, along with some strong locktite. It will need a blowtorch to come off now. Ready for a test drive before next season.
I bought a cheap mole plough/ pipe layer for putting in water lines for troughs a while back. Finest Chinesium...
I was using it doing a run out to a trough when the mole plough stopped and the tractor didn't thanks to an underground rock. It bent the 3 point linkage connection.
Into the forge to warm it up, into the vice and it straighted out ok. Welded on some bracing, a really rubbish paint job and ready to live in the storage paddock until next time.
I was using it doing a run out to a trough when the mole plough stopped and the tractor didn't thanks to an underground rock. It bent the 3 point linkage connection.
Into the forge to warm it up, into the vice and it straighted out ok. Welded on some bracing, a really rubbish paint job and ready to live in the storage paddock until next time.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,637
- Location
- Keeler crater
Sharpened a pair of Gilbows:
Never tried it before but they came out excellent. If you don't know, the blades should have a slight curve to them so the cutting edges meet at a single point, this means if you stone the back of them flat you'll ruin them. Same with scissors or garden shears. I gave the back a very slightly rub just to take the burrs off some nicks in the cutting edge, then ground the bevel through the grits (400, 1000, 3000 & 8000) The edge has an included angle of something like 105 degrees so it's quite hard to hold without it skating along the stone like nails on a chalkboard (Compared to a knife with an included angle of say 20 degrees).
I don't know what the rated capacity is but they'll cut anything paper to 1mm stainless now.
I suppose should clean them up a bit now.
Never tried it before but they came out excellent. If you don't know, the blades should have a slight curve to them so the cutting edges meet at a single point, this means if you stone the back of them flat you'll ruin them. Same with scissors or garden shears. I gave the back a very slightly rub just to take the burrs off some nicks in the cutting edge, then ground the bevel through the grits (400, 1000, 3000 & 8000) The edge has an included angle of something like 105 degrees so it's quite hard to hold without it skating along the stone like nails on a chalkboard (Compared to a knife with an included angle of say 20 degrees).
I don't know what the rated capacity is but they'll cut anything paper to 1mm stainless now.
I suppose should clean them up a bit now.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,500
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I got this Kawasaki hedge trimmer from a boot sale for £10 with a missing air filter and stinking of stale petrol a few weeks ago. Worth a punt!
The fuel lines, tank and filter were gummed up with crap and the primer bulb split so I cleaned the tank and replaced the lines, primer bulb and filter. I also gave the carb a quick blast of carb cleaner.
The missing air filter was more of a problem as they aren't cheaply available as patern parts so I had a rummage through my stash of small engine bits and found a new filter and housing I'd bought for something else, had a look but it is a different type mmm, I tried it anyway and it fits perfectly! I just had to cut a small bit off the choke lever and block the bolt hole
The existing Kawasaki choke lever even fits perfectly into the recess in the cover!
I gave it a bit of a "WD40 clean" and it looks almost unused!!!
Fired up 4th pull, total cost about £21
The fuel lines, tank and filter were gummed up with crap and the primer bulb split so I cleaned the tank and replaced the lines, primer bulb and filter. I also gave the carb a quick blast of carb cleaner.
The missing air filter was more of a problem as they aren't cheaply available as patern parts so I had a rummage through my stash of small engine bits and found a new filter and housing I'd bought for something else, had a look but it is a different type mmm, I tried it anyway and it fits perfectly! I just had to cut a small bit off the choke lever and block the bolt hole
The existing Kawasaki choke lever even fits perfectly into the recess in the cover!
I gave it a bit of a "WD40 clean" and it looks almost unused!!!
Fired up 4th pull, total cost about £21
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,637
- Location
- Keeler crater
You could made the gears if you had a dividing head.
Looks good for ninety quid, what size is the chuck?
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,637
- Location
- Keeler crater
I've hopefully repaired my ultrasound tank, time will tell.
About a year ago it started tripping the RCD, I took it apart to see what was going on and the PCB was soaked, there was a pinhole in the tank.
Looking closely, there's hundreds of tiny pits. I've never had any proper ultrasonic fluid, I just use whatever's handy, usually MucOff or G101 but sometimes caustic soda, brick acid, etc. I assume once something has etched the surface the roughness creates nucleation sites and cavitation bubbles start drilling through the tank.
I hosed off the circuit board and left it to dry in the conservatory for a few months. I was thinking about lining the tank with epoxy but last night Robin Renzetti put a video on Instagram showing a repair of a vibratory tumbler with hot glue. I've already got hot glue so it's not gonna cost anything and should be easier to peel off when it doesn't work.
I didn't bother with a glue gun, just warmed the whole thing up with a hot air gun and melted glue sticks directly against the surface until I had a reasonably uniform coat across the whole bottom of the tank.
The finished product, as far as I can tell there's no holes in the glue but I didn't go up the sides and there are some pits still exposed, I should really coat the walls too.
I ran it for a while without fitting the circuit board in case it leaked straight away. I also put a piece of foil in to check it's still ultrasounding properly, I was a bit worried by making the tank heavier I'd mess up any impedance matching the transducers and tank may have, it seems to be fine though, that picture is after half an hour, I think the foil is suitably destroyed.
After a couple of hours, the surface of the glue is unchanged and it still seems well attached to the tank, aside from this small bubble in one corner. There appears to be water under it, I can move it around a little but I can't push it out, can't see how it got in either.
I'll update after it's had a bit of use in anger, or it fails, whichever come's first.
About a year ago it started tripping the RCD, I took it apart to see what was going on and the PCB was soaked, there was a pinhole in the tank.
Looking closely, there's hundreds of tiny pits. I've never had any proper ultrasonic fluid, I just use whatever's handy, usually MucOff or G101 but sometimes caustic soda, brick acid, etc. I assume once something has etched the surface the roughness creates nucleation sites and cavitation bubbles start drilling through the tank.
I hosed off the circuit board and left it to dry in the conservatory for a few months. I was thinking about lining the tank with epoxy but last night Robin Renzetti put a video on Instagram showing a repair of a vibratory tumbler with hot glue. I've already got hot glue so it's not gonna cost anything and should be easier to peel off when it doesn't work.
I didn't bother with a glue gun, just warmed the whole thing up with a hot air gun and melted glue sticks directly against the surface until I had a reasonably uniform coat across the whole bottom of the tank.
The finished product, as far as I can tell there's no holes in the glue but I didn't go up the sides and there are some pits still exposed, I should really coat the walls too.
I ran it for a while without fitting the circuit board in case it leaked straight away. I also put a piece of foil in to check it's still ultrasounding properly, I was a bit worried by making the tank heavier I'd mess up any impedance matching the transducers and tank may have, it seems to be fine though, that picture is after half an hour, I think the foil is suitably destroyed.
After a couple of hours, the surface of the glue is unchanged and it still seems well attached to the tank, aside from this small bubble in one corner. There appears to be water under it, I can move it around a little but I can't push it out, can't see how it got in either.
I'll update after it's had a bit of use in anger, or it fails, whichever come's first.
