Stuff you have fixed today

[KemppiFrog]

No photos, but some friends asked me to look at their cooker. Seems it blows the lights when you turn off one of the electric ovens. (Top is gas)

First look, the oven knob is loose. Not on the shaft, but further back. After a bit of fiddling, I get the top off and....the switch is not fixed at all, the screws to a bracket are out and the nut holding it to the front frame is undone. Result, the whole switch is turning and the connecters touching the frame. Bit alarming, but the earth is well connected. Tightened everything back up and warned them to call if any signs of movement again. Oven been there ten yrs and good quality. Also suggested that a 30ma trip be fitted as the only one is the EDF fitment from a long time ago, 500ma.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

This brace of leather working tools are all a MIS member hard work. With my advice.
They are his first try at restoration.

What's that first one for - making nice patterns round the edge of pies?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This hammer was used to build up some folders to show others how to restore tools.




The shaft is sound, the head is securely fitted on the shaft.

So it was cleaned with hot water, then "Meths." That showed the wood to be dry.



So sun warmed linseed oil is allowed to work its way in, via the end grain.



A bit of history laid bare.
The head is finished by warming the head and plunging into light oil.



The shaft is browned with a paraffin blow torch, sanded smooth and finished with linseed oil and wax finish.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

What's that first one for - making nice patterns round the edge of pies?

Very small pies then.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This hammer was in a sad and sorry state.



Shaft was shot with worm, split and the head all but fell of.



The head was attacked with a wire brush, then boiled in Citric acid. Finally it was gone over with a scouring pad.




The new shaft was fitted, home made metal wedge. The painted.



All done with no power tools.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Again, no power tools.

All done with traditional tools and methods.



The shaft was cleaned with a cabinet scraper, sand paper and finished with rattle can varnish.
The head was attacked with files, wet and dry.

 

[Gragson]

Yeah, nice job you've done, and a bespoke matched pair.

These Workmates seem to go for silly money nowadays. I brought one here from overseas, and acquired a couple with the aluminium frame sections like yours at charity shop's, both of which could use some sprucing up. For the replacement boards, it looks like you used 25mm plywood ?

Cheers. Yes I made the the boards from 25mm ply & finished with YV. Obvious I suppose, but once you cut to size, use the old boards to clamp & sandwich when you're drilling the holes, gives a good pattern but more important stops the ply breaking out at the back - which I did on the first hole
They are not quite the same, one has nice aluminium half nuts, the other is plastic, cost cutting I guess but they work as just as well.

I've seen replacements on offer at £100 a pair - errrr no thanks!

Brilliant job Gragson. The bigger model I was telling you about is the 2000. I can send you a photo of one if you are intersted.

Yes please I thought these were pretty big at 750mm!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Some times, during a restoration, with limited funds you have to ask your self:
Is it worth it?
Can it de saved?
But, with a bit of thinking.



Split handle, lots of worm, bent shaft and a worn tip.



A bit of fire wood.
Bit of scrap.
But the brass feral is still in good condition.



So using sulphur and saw dust. The tang is heated to dull red and pushed into a new handle.



It gives a nice blacken finish to the blade.

I went this pattern as it is very similar to the screwdriver found in a Vickers .303 machine gun service kit.

 

[p0689109]

Gragson, I will get on and do that tomorrow!

 

[DAPPH]

Not today but in between stuff this week, Got these from @p0689109 worked ok but boards were shot.

View attachment 308290

Got carried away, gave them a birthday stripped and blasted

View attachment 308298

Paint - zzzzzzzzzzzzzz


View attachment 308299

Made new boards / jaws

View attachment 308300

New bottom legs & rubbers, pins, fasteners, springs, everything - should look the same as when I got them if I live long enough

View attachment 308301

Found my replacement construction ply tops split within week of putting them on , so the next set of tops were made out of 25 mmm HDF and soaked in varnish on the cut edges & holes ... that was 34 years ago & they are still going strong .
I had to turn up new aluminium knobs for the winding handles and have fitted three sets of leg lock " D's" & numerous foot rubbers. Thinking about it , I might see if I can print up a new set of " D's & feet " in ABS when I need some more

 

[DAPPH]

Glued a dining chair back together, the front legs have been wobbly for years but with the fabric and webbing stapled on top they need completely stripping down and then reupholstering in order to fix. The upholstery is mum's department, I'm just providing tools and persuading her to buy more sewing machines.
View attachment 308320

A quick fix I learnt on my C&G fine furniture making and renovation course for wobbly legs & arms on chairs & carver chair is to get hold of a few plastis syringes and some of the bigger bore needles
( Agricultural equipment stockist's or farm stock equipment suppliers or on line ).
Suck up some super glue in the needled syringe then inject it into a hidden predrilled hole on the underside of a joint having turned the chair upside down to drill & fill the hole . leave it undisturbed for 25 min and it's set rock solid . Any leakage can usually be quickly pared off & polished away .

 

[Maker]

A quick fix I learnt on my C&G fine furniture making and renovation course for wobbly legs & arms on chairs & carver chair is to get hold of a few plastis syringes and some of the bigger bore needles
( Agricultural equipment stockist's or farm stock equipment suppliers or on line ).
Suck up some super glue in the needled syringe then inject it into a hidden predrilled hole on the underside of a joint having turned the chair upside down to drill & fill the hole . leave it undisturbed for 25 min and it's set rock solid . Any leakage can usually be quickly pared off & polished away .

I'll have to remember that one.

In this case, the upholstery was coming off and getting replaced anyway, mum's had the chairs longer than she's had me and in that time they've got more than a bit grubby, the webbing has stretched and the foam has turned into memory foam.


It's like a drum now.

 

[bigegg]

I'll have to remember that one.

In this case, the upholstery was coming off and getting replaced anyway, mum's had the chairs longer than she's had me and in that time they've got more than a bit grubby, the webbing has stretched and the foam has turned into memory foam.

View attachment 308533
It's like a drum now.

Don't those design of chairs usually have a "drop in" removable upholstered seat, rather than webbed to the outer frame?

 

[brewdexta]

I had an intermittent gas problem on my MIG welder. I tracked it down to me intermittently not turning it on.

I've done a short term repair by tapping myself on the back of the head with the gas spanner. It seems to have done the trick while I work on the long term fix.

 

[Mick Annick]

With my crank now straightened thanks to @Screwdriver Steve, my mower has been reassembled and fired up - no white finger anymore!

Just waiting on the drive pulley to arrive from the UK - had to buy a generic one from Bearing Shop as Husky ones are no longer available - then I can give it a proper test drive.

 

[qwakers]

as most of the panels are either stupidly expensive second hand or NLA ive been plastic welding and reinforcing the very brittle 21 year old plastics on the tt600...

might not be much better than a bodge, but its a technique I've used many times to good effect where fibreglass simply wont stick for whatever reason....

 

[Melvyn Best]

as most of the panels are either stupidly expensive second hand or NLA ive been plastic welding and reinforcing the very brittle 21 year old plastics on the tt600...

might not be much better than a bodge, but its a technique I've used many times to good effect where fibreglass simply wont stick (for whatever reason....

I noted Topfix is good for that job

 

[Craig-SM]

I fixed my Mikwaukee mitre saw today. Eagle eye readers maybe having a deja vu moment as fixed it last month after acquiring it in a well used condition. Spent an age levelling it off and truing the angles.
decided a mitre saw stand was needed so purchased a Dewalt one. Very sturdy and plenty of support. I went to ft the mitre saw to it and was adjusting the fixings to square it up and for some brain fart moment I removed my hands from it whilst not clamped onto the stand and watched it fall backwards in slow motion. Well it doesn’t bounce very well off concrete and the result was broken blade guard, dust collector and dust port. Spare parts arrived today and after squaring the blade again it’s cutting perfectly again.

 

[Brad93]

With my crank now straightened thanks to @Screwdriver Steve, my mower has been reassembled and fired up - no white finger anymore!

Just waiting on the drive pulley to arrive from the UK - had to buy a generic one from Bearing Shop as Husky ones are no longer available - then I can give it a proper test drive.

View attachment 308678

How did you straighten it then @Screwdriver

 

[4String.]

Not one of the most elaborate jobs I've ever done but 4 cable ties and a length of 40mm drainpipe make a useful storage solution on the back of the cab for the sweeping brush. Need some more pipe to make a similar holder for the long-handled washing brush and one for the crowbar at the bottom of the shot that's currently residing under the bungee cord.